AlpineMonkey Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Trip: Dragontail - CompleteNortheastButtress Date: 7/26/2008 Trip Report: The Northeast Buttress is possibly the longest feature on Dragontail, making it one of the largest routes in the Stuart Range. The route offers over 2000 feet of elevation gain, however, the curving nature of the upper butress makes the climbing much longer. On this route expect loose and dirty climbing on the bottom head wall. Higher up the rock quality changes to "excellent" where one will get more then a thousand feet of quality moderate climbing on good rock. Lower Headwall Complete Buttress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Nice! Thats huge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Nice d00d! I think I climbed that line or one slightly to the left of it w/ Team Harro thinking it was serpetine A little choss and moss but overall a nice line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 I think I climbed that line or one slightly to the left of it w/ Team Harro thinking it was serpetine Have you read about Texplorer's trip to Slesse where he thought he was on the NEB, didn't realize he was off route till pitch 10 and put up a new route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 NE Buttress is somewhat confusing, and I'm pretty sure the info in the Beckey guide is wrong as well. Looks like you perhaps did the Nelson direct version? I climbed a line about two to the left, starting in a recess with another recess featuring a chimney between your start and ours. After about five pitches I found an excavated nut placement that convinced me we were on some line or other that someone had been on. I think those lower lines all converge at a notch that is a ways below the Beckey NE Buttress notch, was it a pretty easy downclimb to the diagonal ledges that lead up the easier upper face? Some twisty gargoyles on the ridge above? A good line that should get more traffic, but I think the Gerber/Sink on the N Face that starts at the lowest toe of the face is an overall longer line, at least in total elevation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 is this near where Erik and my "Der Dihedral" links in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 oh wait no, ours is one ridge up the hill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Mike, your line is left of the NE Couloir, isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 that looks pretty fun...i'll stick to serepentine for now though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Mike, your line is left of the NE Couloir, isn't it? Yeah, it's the big ridge just L. of the NE couloir. I don't have my guidebook handy (sadly it's packed for now). Was that ridge unclimbed prior to Erik and I? Very confusing part of the mountain for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 whats the ne buttress rated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 whats the ne buttress rated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 whats the ne buttress rated? 5.12b, WI6+, A5, M10 all R/X! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 whats the ne buttress rated? 5.12b, WI6+, A5, M10 all R/X! Is that Canadian for III+ 5.9? There's a number of ways up that buttress, but if you're fine with 5.9 any of them will go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 whats the ne buttress rated? 5.12b, WI6+, A5, M10 all R/X! Is that Canadian for III+ 5.9? No, that's the american translation for Canadian '5.9 A2' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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