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#831555 - 08/30/08 01:31 PM Supercrack Leavenworth
bigbowsky Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/09/04
Posts: 23
TRs: 1 Photos: 9
Just curious if anyone knows anything about the first ascent of Supercrack on Midnight Rock in Leavenworth? Does anyone know of any legit repeats, or how Timson protected it without large cams? I am betting he sent it on large hex's but would love to hear the story from someone who knows? Any credible info send me a P.M. would love to chat about it....






Edited by bigbowsky (09/04/08 11:16 AM)

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#831605 - 08/30/08 09:25 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: bigbowsky]
moronbros Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/04/06
Posts: 51
TRs: 1 Photos: 0
Loc: the schitty
There is only one SuperCrack(c) and it's located in Indian Creek. I know the answer to that one: eight #3 C4 cams, two #2 C4 cams, and two draws. =P
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-=Hard work pays off over time, but laziness pays off NOW=-

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#831693 - 08/31/08 03:08 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: moronbros]
RuMR Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 04/26/02
Posts: 11715
TRs: 0 Photos: 75
Loc: Seattle
there are several SuperCracks(c) that are famous...

Eight #3's????? WTF... Try like 4 or so...
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DWAYNER SAYS : BOOO BOOO BOOOOO BOOOO

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#831707 - 08/31/08 06:26 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: RuMR]
bigwallben Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/01/01
Posts: 200
TRs: 1 Photos: 13
Loc: mobile van
J-man. Nice send bra! Heard it from a friend...

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#831711 - 08/31/08 07:39 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: moronbros]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15367
TRs: 3 Photos: 292
Loc: land of the little people.
 Originally Posted By: moronbros
There is only one SuperCrack(c) and it's located in Indian Creek. I know the answer to that one: eight #3 C4 cams, two #2 C4 cams, and two draws. =P


I agree with Rumr. You can do it with 3 golds....just start walking them up. You can place a blue and one red.....
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All you need is love.....

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#831721 - 08/31/08 08:47 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: kevbone]
pink Offline
sprayer

Registered: 10/19/06
Posts: 8311
TRs: 1 Photos: 348
kevbone agrees with RuMR and documented to boot.

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#831723 - 08/31/08 08:53 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: pink]
moronbros Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/04/06
Posts: 51
TRs: 1 Photos: 0
Loc: the schitty
We actually did it with 3 and it worked out well. =) It's called hyperbole =P
_________________________
-=Hard work pays off over time, but laziness pays off NOW=-

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#831724 - 08/31/08 08:56 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: kevbone]
bigwallben Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/01/01
Posts: 200
TRs: 1 Photos: 13
Loc: mobile van
Why are you wasting your time talking about that super lame pile? I'm sure it was super back in the 80's.

 Originally Posted By: kevbone
 Originally Posted By: moronbros
There is only one SuperCrack(c) and it's located in Indian Creek. I know the answer to that one: eight #3 C4 cams, two #2 C4 cams, and two draws. =P


I agree with Rumr. You can do it with 3 golds....just start walking them up. You can place a blue and one red.....

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#831776 - 09/01/08 09:52 AM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: bigwallben]
bwrts Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/26/05
Posts: 576
TRs: 0 Photos: 14
Loc: Washington State
wow someone repeated the supercrack on midnight?
pictures would be sweet...

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#831808 - 09/01/08 01:48 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: bigwallben]
olyclimber Offline

☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 24488
TRs: 31 Photos: 840
Loc: In Love with You
 Originally Posted By: bigwallben
J-man. Nice send bra! Heard it from a friend...



dish!
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SNACKS!!!!!

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#832945 - 09/04/08 11:17 AM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: olyclimber]
bigbowsky Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/09/04
Posts: 23
TRs: 1 Photos: 9
Added a few Pics of the route. See above

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#832965 - 09/04/08 11:54 AM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: bigbowsky]
Ishmael Offline
member

Registered: 04/05/07
Posts: 157
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Pacific Ocean
great pics and nice send.

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#833106 - 09/04/08 04:33 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: bigbowsky]
olyclimber Offline

☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 24488
TRs: 31 Photos: 840
Loc: In Love with You
Great pics!
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SNACKS!!!!!

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#833183 - 09/04/08 08:32 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: olyclimber]
el jefe Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/31/07
Posts: 753
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: pdx
nice work! congratulations on the send.

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#833237 - 09/05/08 08:28 AM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: el jefe]
RICHARD_CILLEY Offline
member

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 181
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Fantastic !What did you think about the grade?Details of the ascent?Onsight?

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#833353 - 09/05/08 12:14 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: RICHARD_CILLEY]
eldiente Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/17/04
Posts: 642
TRs: 25 Photos: 119
Loc: Squamish
I know nothing of this route and can't seem to find much beta online. Grade?

-Nate

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#833366 - 09/05/08 12:32 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: eldiente]
G-spotter Offline
Elite Sprayforce Team

Registered: 12/20/01
Posts: 14843
TRs: 56 Photos: 397
Loc: free range
12c in the guidebook
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#833381 - 09/05/08 12:47 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: G-spotter]
bigbowsky Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/09/04
Posts: 23
TRs: 1 Photos: 9
The grade is kinda a hard one to put a number and letter on. It climbs like a splitter in Indian Creek and favors those who can get fist jams and arm bars the last 10 feet or so. I was able to get fists almost through the entire crux but they were incredibly strenous. I would bet for a smaller person it would be 5.13. For my body it felt probably about 5.12a/b?

About the details, I tried it once ground up last year with a friend and it kicked my ass. When I got to the top the anchor was complete bull $%#@. I found an r.p. crack that was super parrellel and a place for my last number 5 camalot. Considering that my partner was almost surely going to have to take I loaded the crack with small gear, jumped in a hole below and gave him a body belay to the anchor. Needless to say it was terrifying! Soooo I went back last week with two friends and drilled a two bolt anchor at the top We rapped in and I looked at it on TR for a second and then sent the pitch first go. With the anchor there now hopefully it will get more traffic. You can get to the climb by traversing in at the base of rotc past the dagoba system up to the bolt anchor. A must hit if you are heading up to midnight rock. Also you go by the base of plumbline (which needs a wire bursh desperately) on the way to the SC anchor.

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#833387 - 09/05/08 01:02 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: bigbowsky]
RuMR Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 04/26/02
Posts: 11715
TRs: 0 Photos: 75
Loc: Seattle
bibwallben,

curious to hear your thoughts on the size differential...
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DWAYNER SAYS : BOOO BOOO BOOOOO BOOOO

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#833408 - 09/05/08 01:49 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: bigbowsky]
el jefe Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/31/07
Posts: 753
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: pdx
what sort of rack did you need? you mentioned placing your "last #5 camalot"...

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#833429 - 09/05/08 02:52 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: el jefe]
stillcrankin Offline
member

Registered: 03/23/04
Posts: 107
TRs: 0 Photos: 33
Loc: Elsewhere

Burly looking crack. Looks like something that would definitely support a bad crack habit. How much farther does it go past where you are in the second picture?

I'll ask Pat about it the next time I talk to him....
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#833445 - 09/05/08 03:53 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: el jefe]
bigbowsky Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/09/04
Posts: 23
TRs: 1 Photos: 9


The rack in camalots:

1 .5
2 .75
2 1
1 2
2 3
1 old 3.5
2 4

The number 5 was for the onsight go but it dosent fit. Fingeys to 2 no. 4s are the rack!

The size thing will FOR SURE MATTER! I was up there with a (VERY STRONG) climber and he ran out of jams and then was forced to lie it back (desperado for sure) at the end. The pics don't show the crux... it is the last 10 feet of climbing the crack goes into an overhanging flake that just dosen't have anything to hold onto... My friend off the top of his head figured maybe 12c for him or harder???

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#833555 - 09/05/08 09:34 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: bigbowsky]
el jefe Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/31/07
Posts: 753
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: pdx
thanks for the info. timson has big hands with fat fingers, so i guess that helped him for sure.

and you're right, it would be interesting to know what he did to protect it back in '79. must have been hexes because friends maxed out at #4 -- roughly equivalent to a #3 camalot, so it was either hexes or way run out!

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#833590 - 09/06/08 09:29 AM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: el jefe]
Cairns Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/07/01
Posts: 343
TRs: 2 Photos: 179
Loc: West Vancouver
 Originally Posted By: el jefe
thanks for the info. timson has big hands with fat fingers, so i guess that helped him for sure.

and you're right, it would be interesting to know what he did to protect it back in '79. must have been hexes because friends maxed out at #4 -- roughly equivalent to a #3 camalot, so it was either hexes or way run out!



I remember hearing that toward the top Timson was "well above" his last piece and his arms were getting tired. He had pretty strong arms.

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#833723 - 09/07/08 01:46 PM Re: Supercrack Leavenworth [Re: Cairns]
texplorer Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/10/01
Posts: 1953
TRs: 2 Photos: 85
Loc: Sacramento
Tried this route a few years back with Rumr and got torched but it felt "doable". Nice job on a classic route. Hope this thing gets more ascents.

Moronbros: for your info the "supercrcack" which you speak of I beleive was originally named Supercrack Luxuryliner of the Desert
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