Trip: Slesse - NE Buttress

Date: 8/14/2008

Trip Report:

As of Thursday there was plenty of ice left in the pocket glacier. My buddy and I decided to take our chances by crossing before daylight. Everything came up sevens but my advice would be to sit it out this year or wait for much colder temps.
We got lucky.

I don't think the ice will totally melt out of there this year. Also the gate at Slesse creek road was firmly locked. There was a big washout about 3 miles up the road.

The climbing was great of course and we found plenty of water on route.



Gear Notes:
Bring lots of #.5-#1 camalots

A pox upon you for not including pictures...nice job.

pic

congrats!

can you run under ther ice in tennies?

Yes, but it's a form of alpine Russian roulette. More than one climber has lost that bet on this route in the past.

I am new to all this and have no clue how to post pics, thanks guys. That is the "Glacier" on 8/8/08. Much slid that day as early as 0600. I would venture to guess it is considerably smaller but definatley moving. Factor this into your plans. I was captain of my High School Russian Roulette team so felt the odds were favorable that morning. Chum did it 48 hours later and as he said it was still raining ice. Wear a helmet and run fast.

As of August 25th there wasn't much of the Bypass glacier remaining. Other than a snow patch with a bit of serac debris lower down on the slab, the remains of the glacier were isolated to the uppermost catchment area and didn't look very threatening compared to photos of earlier this summer. Sorry no photos.

Could you access the bypass and skip the lower butt?

I'm planning to head up this weekend...if anyone is up there this week, pics or beta on the glacier condition would be much appreciated.

If you happen to run into the bushy tailed wood rat just below No Way Ray buttress, tell him I want my jumars back.

You have Saturday afternoon and all Sunday..then a weak storm pushes in on Monday..

Friday is rainy and it wont start clearing till Sat in the afternoon..hopefully, that place is a magnet for clouds.

Sounds like the glacier is gone, good luck.

I haven't climbed the NEB, but it looked like either start was possible without crossing any ice. We viewed the 'glacier' from various points along the trail and there really wasn't much left of it. Compared to how it looked a few weeks back it's tame.

Having said this, everything was active up there on Saturday so a quick and early crossing by headlamp would be the way to go.

Where do you find such detailed weather info...the Environment Canada site is not that specific.

He's the weatherman - EC will agree with him tomorrow...

I am a meteorologist

The reason EC is not that specific is because they did a survey and found that British Columbians do not use the synopsis section of the web site so they took it down, weird huh.

right now its only internal and quite cryptic

NOAA has some great discussions that can give you more than what EC has available.

EC mets would like provide more info but have their hands tied by the stupid website and govt.

if things change I will post here for you
Cheers

straight model progs for day 4 and 5 for EC they only deal with day 1 2 and 3 personally

Knee-deep pow for Labour day?

Saturday.. Sunny With Cloudy Periods. 30 Percent Chance Of Flurries.
Freezing Level 1500 Metres.
Snowfall Accumulation Trace.

This is impressive!

What you think your skiing this season....hahahahaha, its over boyeee.

You will be great at the alpine start though

You can always pay $2.99/min for some hot one-on-one weather talk.

J, you should undercut them at $1.99.

I dunno...the wife might not believe me when i explain what that charge on the telephone bill is.

""it looked like either start was possible without crossing any ice""

You usually don't have to cross the glacier, the danger is you have to cross under the glacier(ice fall) on either approach.

""there really wasn't much left of it. Compared to how it looked a few weeks back it's tame.""

Was up there one time when the very last section slid off. Believe me you do not want to be under it when it goes.

If there's any ice/snow there at all it's still dangerous. But being an isolated patch that's not being loaded with new snow the biggest factor is probably warmth. So the best time is probably early in the AM, colder temps.

What is the condition of Nesakwatch Creek road? Is it 2wd accessible? I drove it 2 years ago to approach Rexford and my 2wd car didn't quite make it all the way.

Also, how far up Slesse Creek road is it gated? I'm curous how far the hike out is going to be. Would like to leave bikes or a second car as far up as possible.

Nesakwatch Cr is 2wd to the memorial trail trailhead.
Slesse Creek is gated right at pavement on Chilliwack Lake Rd. You should seriously consider descending the Crossover route back to your vehicle in Nesakwatch Cr.