Trip: Copper, Fernow, and Martin, Glacier Peak Wildernes - E face Copper, SW face Martin

Date: 8/7/2008

Trip Report:
TR: Copper and Martin

Aug 4 – 7, 2008



"You talkin' to me?" Holden Lake trail’s reportedly “aggressive” bear


“It’s coming right for us! Get behind something!” Don yelled as he hunkered down behind a mountain hemlock.

I was in my ‘bug free zone’, a Tarptent, when the first thunderclap struck. It sounded like an eight million ton Hawaiian dancer clacking her coconut cups together, and it was headed our way. I ripped the bug zipper down and dove behind a large fallen log.

“Jesus, did you see that tree explode?” It was then that we noticed that our camp, a semi-hardened site, was situated at the base of a massive debris fan; a fact that was obscured by a small grove of trees. The huge blocks that had just off of Buckskin Mountain had come to rest not 50 yards away.

“Well, that’s the first time I’ve had to dodge a rock while in my sleeping bag.”

So ended an otherwise leisurely day on Copper Peak.




The East Face of Copper Peak. This pleasant scramble meanders up on fairly solid bedrock through the broad, green flecked area, then left towards the summit




John on the summit of Copper. Goode (right) and Buckner (left) in the background




John experiences a bout of loop quantum degradation on the descent


Our plan was to climb Copper together, then split up the following day. I would descend to Holden and climb Martin from Holden Lake; Don and John would stay in Copper Basin and climb Fernow.



Don on the summit of Copper. Martin in the background




Name That Peak; a stupidly long panorama from Copper Peak


While on the way up to Holden Lake, I surprised a young cinnamon bear with a white patch on his chest. After his initial start, he calmed right down and continued grazing on blueberry bushes. A minute and a half of video cost me about 2,000 black fly bites. I as still wiping off blood smears the following morning.



Bear attack!


From Holden Lake, I headed straight for the lower snow patch in the photo below, shortcutting the standard Holden Pass approach. More accurately, I was chased up the mountain by the black flies like a squirrel escaping a vacuum cleaner. An aster flecked meadow took me straight to a system of scree gulleys and the aforementioned snow patch without fending off a single branch of alder or mountain ash. I passed the snow patch on the right, ascending slopes and slabs to gain the route shown up solid, 4th class bedrock. To my pleasant surprise there was a fair bit good quality limestone on the route…and some not so good quality limestone up higher. Several hundred feet from the summit I traversed left from zigzagging ledges into a steep bedrock gulley provided an elevator shaft to the summit ridge. The gulley became steeper and more friable towards the top.



My route up Martin


I mantled onto the crest, fists already clenched and ready for a victory V, looked left, and…oh shit. The summit was WAY the hell over there, guarded by a snaggletoothed ridge of fractured, lichen flaked blocks. Furthermore, in the past hour and a half a few mares tails had transformed a hot, clear sky into a darkening overcast.



Oops. Summit of Martin in the distance


I traversed several hundred yards of ridge Wile E. Coyote style; hanging my ass over lots of free space on little overhung ledges to avoid the broken ridge crest. Exhilarating, but not really mind bending. At least, not as mind bending as the thought of still being on this shitpile after a good rain made it come alive. In shorts and a T shirt. Rain was already obscuring Glacier Peak.

I spent just enough time on the summit to sign the register, stuff some cashews and Jelly Bellies in my jowls, quaff the last of my water, and consider that I didn’t really know the way down.

It was a ridge; how hard could it be?

It wasn’t, but I was still relieved when I passed a cairn, and further down, a rap sling. At least one other idiot had gone this way, but, more importantly, a bunch of goats had as well. In the end, it turned out to be straightforward and obvious. I was back on the scree by the time a light rain began to fall.

Despite the ridge traverse and it’s rotten reputation (understandable, considering its dirt gulley standard route), Martin provided one of the most enjoyable scrambles in memory.




Phlox and limestone. Martin Peak




Paintbrush. Martin Peak


I spent the night in the campground, just up-valley from Holden. The following morning I spent chatting with the Lutherans before tucking into Thursday’s “Hunger Awareness” lunch (white rice, carrots, and bread). As I sipped my 37th cup of black coffee, soft spoken families of lanky, bespecled Minnesotans transported Lake Wobegon to the Cascades. .



Black pine sawyer (monochamus scutellatus). Holden Village




Olaf, Honorary Mayor of Holden Village, on the dock. He’s all business when it comes to the protocol of a ship's departure…




…unless there are boogers to be had


The Lady II coaxed a festive attitude from its human cargo. Lutherans, newlyweds, retirees, Minnesotans, people celebrating anniversaries and other rituals of agape, all expressing, in there own ways, what it means to be alive.



Fellow passenger on the Lady II




Another fellow passenger on the Lady II: female bulb fly (merodon equestris)




Which of these toes live in an ivory tower?




Celestial send off. Field’s Point



Gear Notes:
Shoes

Approach Notes:
Ascended Copper from Holden > Copper Basin

Ascended Martin from Holden > Holden Lake

Great read, thanks!

fucking holden-area and the goddamn lutheran flies n' mozzies!!!

Nice, funny, and warm. Thanks! I would like to do more in there some day.

Funny post! With 7500+ others, I'm surprised you have time to get out of reach of your computer.

Nice size blackie you came across. And thanks for the feet picture, I'm glad to know the yellowing nastiness of my own toenails isn't unique. Years and years of bashing into the end of boots and climbing shoes takes its toll.

As always the flora shots were sublime.

very funny stuff (as is john's ?).. totally enjoyed .. and the name that peak video -- substantially impressed

your martin route .. we're only whimpy class 2 scramblers at best but wondered at it anyway when camped nearby over jul 4th .. cool to see you did it .. way to go

o .. and really nice pix!