[TR] Mt Shasta - Casaval Ridge 6/19/2011

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Trip: Mt Shasta - Casaval Ridge

 

Date: 6/19/2011

 

Trip Report:

We went up as a group of 5, three from OR and two from CA (well, one frenchman if you really get down to it). Two years ago we got skunked on the steepest part of the ridge because we weren't prepared, so this was a revenge climb. Packing the night before, we realized that the frenchman was TOTALLY unprepared for the climb (travelling in the US; couldn't bring too much equipment. But he didnt have the sense to ask to borrow it before coming), but after scrounging spare gear, we came up with a kit that would at least get him to the top safely, if not a little uncomfortably.

Horse camp had a ridiculous amount of snow for this time of year; the roof top was juuuust barely poking out. We started up the ridge from there in rain and snow and camped at about 9,800 ft on the ridge under one of the first rock gendarmes. I was very pleased with out camp because the rock sheltered us perfectly from the forcasted 20-40 wind. A1:30 am wakeup turned into a 2:30 am start (soo slooooow) up the ridge in clear weather. We were lucky to have had someone punch nice steps through in soft snow some time recently so we were significantly ahead on time by the time we reached our first of ~3 major faces. Each face was steep, but just right. We were all able to move very quickly and took short breaks at the top of each. I was very happy that everyone was willing to take such short breaks; it kept us moving well.

As usual, we got an amazing sunrise (caught a 12 hr weather window perfectly). Shortly after sunrise 2 SAR helicopters started buzzing the mountain and continued on and off all day. we learned later that 6 people were flown off in 3 incedents that day. Looking down to Helen Lake, there were probably 30+ tents; a busy weekend.

At the crawl I opted to go around, as the wind was giving me quite a workout with the splitboard on my back, and it would have been very poor form to have been the 7th rescue that day.

On top, we were greeted with a fine example of AMS, with a russian(ish) solo climber taking 30 minutes to climb the last 100 ft between naps/passouts. We checked in with him but the language barrier was too much, he just kept up the slow and steady thing and eventually made it to the top.

Unfortunately I carried the board up, and then most of the way back down. We sumited too early and the corn I was hoping for was still frozen solid. Oh well. I was able to take 30 minutes off the descent and traverse back to camp at lower elevation.