Alpinsanity Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 With all the talk about this route, I really think I need to go check it out for myself. Who's with me? Someone who has been up it already would be a plus...obviously. But anybody's welcome. I have been up Garfield twice before, and the face looks great. I have 14 years of climbing behind me (mostly alpine), and have plenty of gear. I live about 15 min. from North Bend, off of I-90. Beta is also appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 With all the talk about this route, I really think I need to go check it out for myself. Â Good for you. Â Â Â There is 250 foot rapell in the middle of it. Either be prepared to down climb (scary) or rap/down climb off shrubs/bushes. Bring a glove for all the raps. Its a 45 minute or hour approach depending on how in shape you are. Find the trail head before dark..... Â The first 14 pitches are a stellar rock climb all in itself. Â Have great time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinsanity Posted June 17, 2008 Author Share Posted June 17, 2008 Exactly the kind of response I expected. Seriously, I don't personally know anyone that's been up the thing. Does it suck, or what? This is the first info I have asked for here. Go easy on me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 not making fun, there are just alot of threads on the topic and kevbone is proly a good person to talk to about it. have fun man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinsanity Posted June 17, 2008 Author Share Posted June 17, 2008 Thanks kevbone. Â I also heard that you can descend the ridge itself. Is that feasible...or even worth it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 Thanks kevbone. I also heard that you can descend the ridge itself. Is that feasible...or even worth it?  Not so sure about descending the ridge. It looks like alot of scrabbling down and some rapping from tree to tree. It sucks.....but the quickest and most direct way down is the raps. IMO.  I really liked the climb.....but I also like B rate movies too.....   I would repeat the route. But I will be bringing a hand drill and two rap bolts. There is controversy, but only from folk who will never climb the route. Mostly from the old guard type climbers. You go climb it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 i heard that the upper pitches were the gems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 and have plenty of gear. Â Not really a prerequisite in this case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 I did the route last year. with the topo and kevbone's beta about the long pitch on the ramp you should not have too much trouble. It is mostly just a long way to climb up and rappel down and the last pitches are cool. the lower part has water running down it so it could be wet right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
penoyar Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 did the first 11 pitches this past weekend and they were all dry. water is definitely around, and sometimes a challenge to keep your rap ropes out of, but the climbing is all dry. of note, we had a few projectiles whiz past us at extreme speeds. one small one hit my partner in the helmet and exploded (the rock, not the helmet). Our fault for starting at noon with two parties above us, but man, if I were to do it again, I would definitely want to be the first party. it's about impossible to ascend and rappel without launching a few heat-seekers straight down the route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 Beaconben and I had some rock fall to our right about 1500 feet up and we were the first on the route. Wear your helmets..... Â We tied off 100 feet apart and simal climbed the first 8 pitches in one and made it to the base of the 19th pitch in 5 pitches. Its mostly 5.7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clee03m Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 This guy and I were thinking about Infinate Bliss, also, and thought we might simal climb the first part. But I was worried about whether some of the pitches were so run out, we might find ourselves not protected. Was that not an issue for your guys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 there are no runouts on the lower slab. it is easily simul climbed if you are comfortable at the grade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 This guy and I were thinking about Infinate Bliss, also, and thought we might simal climb the first part. But I was worried about whether some of the pitches were so run out, we might find ourselves not protected. Was that not an issue for your guys?   We climbed up to the first huge ledge in one pitch…..cant remember if that is the top of pitch 6, 7 or 8 since it was one pitch to us…….We used 28 draws/long slings. I skipped about 20 bolts to do it......and ended up breaking draws up and using just one biner per bolt in the end. Then you can pitch out the next 5.9 pitch if you don’t feel comfortable simuling it…..then simul all the way up to the first of the hard pitches. Most of the climbing above the 5.9 is only 5.7 and under…… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinsanity Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 Thanks for the conditions report, and the simul-beta. Sounds like the way to go, definitely. Â Correction: "Plenty of slings and biners" But...aren't they considered gear? Â Anyone else interested? Send me a PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinsanity Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 I also don't feel that two more bolts are going to take anything away from this already peppered line. Â Oh, and B movies are the shit. I'm going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 (edited) I've heard this route has a bit of runout between some bolts. If you can protect these runouts, what pro is most usefull? Also, what part do you have to do the downclimbing on? I was thinking about trying the first 10 or so pitches and don't want to downclimb. Edited June 22, 2008 by Braydon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 The down climb is on top of pitch 15 i believe....it could be 15-16? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Thanks! Are the runouts protectable? Also, is the grade as soft as Exit 38 or as stiff as Index or somewhere in between, Leavenworth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtysloper Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Yes Kevbone, downclimb is 15-16. No Braydon, it's not protectable, I would say bring only draws and run-it-out! The grade is fair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Thread is now locked. If you want to do this route with the original poster, please contact them via PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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