rob Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 What's the story with this climb? Anybody done it? Kramer doesn't have a lot of info, and I can't seem to find any info on the interwebs. I'm assuming it doesn't get done much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 To my knowledge CB route does not get done much. IF at all, other than one or two ascents? anyone...? The cs variation has been repeated ? somewhat... The nose route has been repeated a bunch of times (I imagine). I know of a small number of people who can take claim. One party missed the crux roof and instead climbed feature to left (dubbed Kleenix Variation). KLB variation...possibly repeated. Area looks ok. The pedestal- repeated a few times. E face repeated a few times, perhaps more than 3. BBluff route- ? Honestly, the details are sketchy due to bridge creek wall has been tradionally kept adventurous with no more than a line on photo and a bit of rack beta. The topo in the Leav Rock 1st ed. should be taken with a grain of salt; gets you up the wall but good route finding skills a must. The typical rack used on ascents equates to standard free rack. Approach from little BCwall and have fun in the sandbox. Decent game trails usually steer you around the biggest cliffs. Typically 2 hours. From most route ends, a good Snag along the south end or Climbers right deposits one to navigatable ledge and gully systems to eventual steep sandy bruch covered slopes and after much sand filled shoes you pack. I can not recall if the rap is avoidable but one rope will suffice. And then the long decline back to the road. Allow a long day car to car. Never hear of overnight trips due to short ashy-sand approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 BCW! Friends and I have climbed that Pedastal a few times now, via a nice off-width, on the left side. We've approached the pedastal by way of a corner/ramp, dirty and loose, but with some fun moves. We always eye that traverse left off the pedastal. Plus, there's a thin, disappearing crack straight up the headwall that looks like aid, at least to my eyes. I think I might get up there again this spring. A few photos of our forays.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 It is a looooong ways up there on a direct southern exposure. Do it now while there is still water available. Watch for snakes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canyondweller Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 Nice pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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