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Old Chute or Pearly Gates?


mtn.climber

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Old Chute is the boot path now; most people don't rope up for it.

 

The gates are a bit technical now. Two tools are nice for about 20'. Most will want to rope up for it, but its a bit of a chore to protect.

 

YMMV...

 

 

 

 

Why rope up if no pro ??

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Old Chute is actually right next to the PG. PG is to the right looking from the Hogsback and the Old Chute is to the left, around the same rock formation.

 

Route that it is a boot path now is called the Old Mazama Chute and it is on the left side of the Hogsback.

 

The Old Chute is actually fun to go up this year as the Hogsbacj shifted to the west a lot.

 

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Thanks for all the great information. What is the best route for a group of new climbers. Can we get through the Pearly Gates or is it best to go around to the Old Mazama Chute. On another post it indicates there was about 15 feet of steep ice on the Old Chute? Thanks for any help.

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Old Chute goes left of hogsback.......there are two chutes that makeup the Pearly Gates, but Old Chute is different and branches off left of the hogsback from just below the bergshrund. Beware the bergshrund by the way...it is open and hard to see until you're nearly on top of it. A guy plunged into it thigh deep the other day when we were up there. With a group of new climbers I'd definitely take old chute. The gates are pretty icy and steep, especially the one on the right. The left chute is not so much....

 

 

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