mountainsloth Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Trip: Banks Lake, Leavenworth, Darrington - Various, Outer Space, Dreamer, Blueberry Butt. Date: 8/26/2010 Trip Report: Thought I might compile some of my major cragging that I have done in the past month together into one TR. This Summer was supposed to be filled with alpine rock... but alas... it was not to be. So the next best thing... long crag routes! Banks Lake 8/7-8 My brother and I went on our yearly canoeing trip and i convinced him Banks Lake was the place and to throw in his climbing gear into his pack. Our trusty steed The canoeing was splendid aside from being run off by motor boats and being the only canoe on the lake. This, however, was balanced out with us being the only climbers there as well! Might I also add that Banks Lake water this time of year is near perfect swimming temperature. The climbing was very well bolted (Think exit 32/38) and the routes intriguing. The rock was certainly granite, but many times reminded me of Goose Egg Mtn rock. The holds were solid, but felt hollow and brittle at times. Either way, the climbing was great fun and highly recommended. We climbed 3 pitches on Highway rock from the water. Supprehension 1p 5.9 to Hello Dalai 2p 5.10a. We stopped there and walked off because we were hungry, hot, and the blue water looked so inviting. The beginning of Supprehension Highway rock from the water My brother psyched to follow Me and the lake Highway rock from a distance We camped half way between Highway Rock and our next objective, the Orange Wall. The Orange Wall is a 5 pitch wall with 5 routes on it. The approach is either a 4WD vehicle plus cross country hiking or a boat. Needless to say, these routes don't get much travel, but the climbing and setting are superb. We decided to climb Heart of Stone, a 5p 5.10a. The climbing was marvelous, juggy, and interesting. Who knew granite could be so sporty!! Orange Wall. Our route takes the line in the middle of the wall and starts just right of the center chimney/gully. We took a pit stop before reaching the wall for a cat hole digging convention and I left my camera there. DOH! So there are no on route pictures for the Orange Wall. We walked off because there were a couple of anchors with no rap rings and I was ill equipped to leave anything behind to rap from. The descent was pretty miserable considering we did not bring walking shoes up with us, stabbing plant-life, dodging poison ivy, and getting stung by some yellow flying beast, but it was all worth it when we reached the water! We spent the remainder of the day hurling ourselves into the cool blue joy that is Banks Lake. Leavenworth, Outer Space & Angel Crack 8/9-10 My friend Salz and I had plans for the N. ridge of Stuart but had to bail at the last minute due to convincing threats of thunderstorms over these two days. We were forced to crag in the canyon. It is kind of silly to think I haven't done Outer Space yet, but the crowds have always steered me to other climbs. Well it was a Monday and I was pretty sure we would have it to ourselves. We were right! Not too many pictures, but plenty of praise. That 5.9 traverse was just marvelous only to be trumped by the haled 2 pitch, chickenhead-strewn, hand crack. Simply amazing. Thanks Fred! Salz coming up the 1st hand crack pitch. Summit shot. We decided to descend the backside down to pearly gates, but got way off route and spent the next two hours schwacking down the canyon. My bad Salz! We did get nice views though... The next day was leisurely. We connected Catapult to Angel Crack on Castle Rock. I can imagine that first 15 feet of Angel Crack was great 20 years ago but now it is absurdly polished in every area you need feet! Darrington: Dreamer 8/12 My buddy Chris who was still in town from Colorado and whom I climbed Infinite Bliss with was looking for another classic long climb that we could do in a day. I recommended Dreamer and he was sold. My fiance and I got shut down on this last year due to the long, non-girlfriend-friendly approach and route finding issues. I went back to it this year determined not to get lost. Me on the approach Roping up We took the lower Urban Bypass option which Chris styled. Cams left at bolt before the crux move 1st roof pitch 2nd roof pitch Chris on the 1st of bolted knob pitches Chris on the summit The views from atop Green Giant Buttress are phenomenal! We simul-rapped the entire route in 1 hour back to our shoes. I was feeling pretty good I just want to say that this is the best route I have climbed to date in Darrington and possibly in the entire Cascades. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Darrington: Exfoliation Dome: Blueberry Buttress My fiance and I tried this route twice in the last 2 Summers without a summit. The first time it was too early in the season and things were too wet. The second time it was the tail end of our heatwave last Summer and we found ourselves up on the ledge each with an empty 3 litter bladder of water. Dehydration ensued on the descent. This Summer we were determined to finish it. Might I add, this is a much friendlier girlfriend route than Dreamer for those looking for something more adventurous than 3 o'clock rock. We thought we would have the rock to ourselves but were tailed by a guide and his client from Squamish. Nice folks. Sorry for the rock fall on descent guys! Not too many photos on this one. Hand crack pitch above the crux Kristin with a nice backdrop. Obligatory granite sidewalk/exfo dome descent shot. Did I ever mention how much I love this valley? With these classics out of the way I can now focus on.... more classics. The Cascades never get old! Thanks to all my partners! Gear Notes: 12 draws for Banks Lake Full rack for Outerspace with doubles and triples in hand sizes. Singles to 3 for Dreamer and BB Butt. with 12 draws for Dreamer. Approach Notes: By canoe, hiking, and scrambling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Awesome set of routes! Nice work . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Woot! Hard not to dream of beautiful long granite now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spionin Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 wow - looks like a very productive couple of weeks! good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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