Trip: Broken Top - South Face Gully

Date: 10/27/2007

Trip Report:
The four of us (Matt, Max, Gabe, and Kip) had the goal of doing a route up the Crater of Broken top. We were hoping to get on either 9 o'clock or 11 O'clock. Once we got a good view of them we decided not to because of the warm temps and the small amount of snow in both of the gullys. So we climbed what is called the South Face Gully in Oregon High. Just like it said we encountered some fourth and easy fifth class rock. There were a few short easy fifth class steps about 15-25ft high. Apart from one very loose, probably 3rd class, 80 meter traverse I really enjoyed the climb. We did a running belay on the upper part of the ridge. Descended the NW Ridge route and traversed around the mountain back to camp.


nearing the crater


Max coming up to the ridge


looking at the upper part of the climb


Gabe starting the very loose traverse section (we couldn't find any bomber anchors so we ended up soloing it)


looking down our route. The red line is our approximate route.


classic summit shot


Gear Notes:
One skinny 60m rope, slings (to tie off small trees/rock horns), one picket, ice axe

Approach Notes:
Todd Lake Road- we pushed the Subaru to the limit on the road. It made it half a mile from the BT trail head. The hike was just snow and scree.

nice you got out. What a wonderful day looking like. A lot more than what I did toay, sitting on couch all day Do you have any more pics of wall in the second picture? Of the gullies? Has anybody climbed that wall/gullies?

Wait about a month or so and there should be enough snow for those routes. But by then you will want to xc ski in. Hiking or AT sucks ass. My buddies xc and I was hating life using my AT gear. Or if you know some one with a sled

west (east facing) wall of crater


crater showing 9 and 11

Some pictures from the climb:

[img]http://www.summitpost.org/image/351560/150574/ice-in-the-crater.html[/img]
A close up of some ice on the south face.

[img]http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=351562&context_id=150574[/img]
Looking south from the Moraine.

[img]http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=351564[/img]
Matt nearing the summit.

Edit: I can never get pictures to show up on these damn forums

Nice work Kip! Keep the TR's coming. I saw your photo in the Bend paper the other day, too... you're becoming a bit of a celebrity, eh?

I was with "letsroll" on 9 O'Clock. We were able to climb the couloir (one full-pitch of steep snow... lots of fun!), but turned back at the saddle because of time. By the time we got back to the car, it was definitely a full day.

Keep me posted with your climbing plans. Maybe we could hit something together!... relive old times!