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[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 2/20/2010


mkporwit

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Trip: Chair Peak - North Face

 

Date: 2/20/2010

 

Trip Report:

Kaskadskyj Kozak, SR, CS and myself decided to get in on the Chair Peak NF gang bang that seems to be going on right now. We met up in Bellevue at 4am and headed to Alpental. Setting out from the cars a little after five, we made it to the rope-up spot near NEB by 8. SR and I were the first team, while KK and CS were the second. SR got pitches 1 and 3, I got 2 and 4. SR dispatched the first pitch with some swearing and wondering where all the fat ice was. Coming up to her I didn't see much in the way of fat ice either -- some of my 17cm screws were bottoming out, and I was glad to have some stubbies.

 

The second pitch was a steep snow slog up to the tree. Same with the third pitch, which SR managed to extend all the way to the small tree above an icy chimney. Pitch four was just another short stretch of deep snow. SR and I topped out at 1. We waited for KK and CS to finish while alternately basking in the sun and shivering when the clouds obscured it.

 

We started the descent a little after 3. Someone has taken a big shit right next to the three-pin rappel anchor... lame! Having grabbed the snowshoes we headed down and were repeatedly tripped up by breakable crust which made the descent to the Source Lake trail painful. As we were leaving there were still some snowshoes and a couple of pairs of skis in the basin -- I feel sorry for the skiers, as conditions did not look enjoyable. We made it out to the car at 6.

 

Pics to follow once I get them.

 

Gear Notes:

We carried pickets and pitons but our team did not use them. Had 7 screws -- 1x22, 4x17, 2x13 and used all but the 22.

 

Approach Notes:

Snowhoes very handy

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