TR - Kangaroo Temple, North Face 9/8/07

[AR_Guy]

TR Kangaroo Temple, North Face (? 5.6) 9/8/07

 

The day started off with a 3 hour drive from Lynnwood to the hairpin bend on Hwy 20, just east of Washington Pass. Arriving just before 9:00am to only a single car parked at the hairpin, Rob and I departed the car shortly after for the 2 hour approach to the notch on the north side of Kangaroo Temple. The hike in is quite scenic, with a fair to good trail most of the way. The views of the Liberty Bell group are quite impressive. The final approach to the notch is the least pleasant part of the approach, steep and loose in places. But, this is only about 15 minutes, so all in all, the approach isnt that bad. We observed a party just starting up the West Face while we made the final climb up to the notch.

 

Gearing up, Rob led off as I belayed from a solid tree at the notch. With only a few feet of the 60 meter rope left, Rob called off belay after a fairly quick lead and I prepared to jump off on my first alpine climb. Heading up and over the rib of rock that departs directly from the notch, I moved out left (east) as I climbed, following the rope line, and immediately was looking down at hundreds of feet of exposure. The climbing was easy, very low 5th class, but the exposure on the steep rock upped both the views and pucker factor significantly. Arriving at the belay, a broad ledge with a solid tree, Rob said that we were off route as the fixed piton that the beta spoke of was no where to be found.

 

After tying in, I put Rob on belay for the 2nd, west traversing (climbers right) pitch. After slinging a horn of rock just beyond the belay, Rob called out that he had found the piton. As it turns out, we were only about 15 feet east (left) of the belay noted in the beta. After a short time, Rob again called off belay and I started out. The very high exposure factor continued on this west traversing, slightly climbing pitch. The moves were fairly straight forward, again, I’d call it very low 5th class, and I quickly arrived at the belay. Rob had pulled up short of where the beta said to belay, not wanting to do the exciting and very exposed step around as that would make communications difficult. A hex, nut and cam made for a solid belay anchor on a sun drenched, roomy ledge. The sun was a welcome addition, as we had been in shade for the first two pitches and the rock was very cold, making for somewhat desensitized fingers.

 

Pitch 3 was definitely the crux of this climb. This is another traversing pitch to climbers right, with a very exposed step around move. Rob led off, placed a purple Camalot just beyond the belay, started to move down and right for the step around, and decided a second piece was in order. A nice small to medium stopper that took some banging with the nut tool to clean made for a solid second piece of pro for the highlight of the climb. Watching Rob scoot around the corner, it was obvious that the moves were all about the feet. After making the moves, Rob called back and said not to worry as the feet were solid. A short time later, it was my turn.

 

After dismantling the belay I headed out cleaning the two pieces that were set just before the step around. As I gingerly made the moves, the pucker factor spiked off the charts, I was looking down several hundred feet of VERY steep rock. Adding to the excitement, there are no hand holds, you just have to palm the rock for balance and stability. It’s all feet for this sequence. After turning the corner there was another piece of gear to clean – a good crack is just beyond the step around that will take gear to protect the 2nd from a pendulum fall if they blow the moves. Rob used a hex here, but it looked like it would take either a #1 or #2 Camalot quite nicely as well (this is where I'm at in the picture). A very narrow ledge, only a few inches wide, traversed right for about 30 feet to an inside corner and a couple of cracks that defined the final pitch. Along the way, there was another pretty easy, but exciting for the exposure, step down move just before the corner and cracks. Rob had belayed just right of these cracks.

 

 

Having reached the inside corner, Rob asked if I wanted to lead the final pitch. Sure I said. He clipped the rack to the rope and slid it the 10 feet over to me. I plugged a small cam into the crack and after a few of 5.4ish moves (reach high for some jugs on the left), the climbing dropped off in grade to very low 5th class. Coming upon a sling festooned tree about 40 or 50 feet up, I set the belay as the terrain above this point was easy scrambling. After Rob came up, we scrambled to the summit, arriving about 1:30 or so, only 4 1/2 hours car to summit.

 

The views from the summit were impressive, Glacier Peak was off to the west, poking its snow covered summit above the intervening mountains and ridges. After some munchies and enjoying the views for about a 1/2 hour, it was time to descend. There is a 3 bolt rap anchor that will lead you down the north face to the notch. It can be found by following the highest part of the summit generally north about 50 to 75 feet. There is an easy 8 to 10 foot down climb along the way. Don’t let slings sucker you into rapping from the wrong spot, find the 3 bolt rap anchor.

 

The first rap is VERY steep and about 80 or 90 feet to a good ledge with a 2 bolt, slung anchor (which looks to be in very good condition – nary a speck of corrosion to be seen). The second rap is also quite steep and about 80 or 90 feet. Be careful to not let your self drift too far to the right – Rob had to traverse to the left a little to get to the 3rd rap station, a cluster of slings around a block. The final rap back to the notch is shorter than the first two and over slightly less steep, but more blocky, flaky terrain.

 

The hike back out was uneventful in the warm afternoon sun. We reached the car about 5:00, making for 8 hours, car to car.

 

All in all, this was quite a fun climb and a great introduction to Alpine climbing. The combination of easy to moderate climbing with plenty of pro opportunities on generally solid & clean rock with high exposure on a shorter route gives a great taste of what alpine climbing is like, without getting in too deep. In addition, the approach is mostly on fair to good trail and of only modest distance. We had this route to ourselves (the other party was on the West Face), while there were a dozen cars in the parking lot for Liberty Bell when we took a quick swing by there on our way to the hairpin.

 

Gear Notes: 60 meter rope, single Camalots, 0.3 to #2, BD nuts #3-#13, #6 & #8 BD wired hexes, slings. You may want to bring webbing for the rap stations, although we found newer webbing in great condition with rap rings in place.

 

[XXX]

Nice work man! Great climb too. We climbed together a few times before you went on vacation last year. Glad to hear your still getting out!

 

 

[catbirdseat]

The first time I did that climb was my first alpine climb and I followed all of it. The crux move on the second pitch really got my attention. The second time I did the climb I was leading and I couldn't find the crux move around the bulge. I must have just stepped past it.