genepires Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 So nelson's guide shows a approach for early winter spire via eldo pk e ridge and deans spire. His SW buttress dorado needle approach shows coming over by the triad and traversing under eldo pk. Why not get to dorado needle via deans spire area? Is there something horrible about getting down near deans spire? Anyone here been on sw buttress of dorado needle? I met one guy who was on it and said it was ok but looking for another opinion. Always a little wary of the vol 2 routes. thanks again, gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 I have not been on the SW Buttress of Dorado Needle, but if I were to approach it I would approach via Eldorado/McAllister Glaciers as per the standard NW Ridge approach and drop down between Tepeh Towers and Dorado Needle. AFAIK, this is the standard approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Hi, Gene, Was up there last year (sorry, I'm honestly not stalking all your posts!) and we went up the usual Eldorado approach and down to the col between Eldorado and Dorado Needle. Super chill, no problems. The col between Eldo and Dorado is a nice bivy site. After I walked past the East Ridge of Eldo, (the first time I was up there, anyway) it was confusing which two spires to walk between to get down to Dorado Needle. Here's a pic of it as you walk toward it: Anyway, hope that helps. I was up there twice in a three week span (once with Donn to do EMS, and the next time to try the SW route of Dorado- ended up off route on that one) and it's a great place to be. Hope this helps, not hurts. -Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pup_on_the_mountain Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 After I walked past the East Ridge of Eldo, (the first time I was up there, anyway) it was confusing which two spires to walk between to get down to Dorado Needle. Dan Smith and I started too early in the morning from the base of Eldorado East Ridge bivy, and completely missed this turn-off!! We had a grand tour of the Inspiration and MacAllister glaciers contouring to the end and around the towers . While the glaciers reminded of Rainier or Baker, we could've saved the extra 2.5 hrs for another day. I thought the route itself was fun though. Lots of easier stuff mixed with several pitches of moderate climbing. Settings are great, and the summit ridge pitch is quite similar to Forbidden WR. The team ahead of us seemed to be seeking out harder variations, and the line was not super obvious - so, you may run into harder sections if you "try". If you haven't seen it already, we followed this TR - had better beta than Nelson Vol II. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 (edited) thanks again y'all. see there is useful stuff on this site! it seemed like that approach could be used to base out of for a good long weekend. hint hint. Edited August 16, 2007 by genepires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Just to parrot what has already been written, the apporach via El Dorado East Ridge is fine. The SW Buttress of Dorado Needle offers a lot of route latitude. Mark Bunker and partner were ahead of us and took a direct line up the center of the buttress. We followed a line of weaknesses that wandered back and forth across the buttress. While the quality of climbing was not stellar IMHO, the setting is spectacular. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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