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[TR] Northern Pickets - WIley Ridge, Challenger, L


Steph_Abegg

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Trip: Northern Pickets - Wiley Ridge, Challenger, Luna Creek (don't go there!)

 

Date: 7/22/2007

 

Trip Report:

Earlier this year, I started making plans for a grand traverse of the Pickets, starting at the north end (via Wiley Ridge) and finishing at the south end (via Goodell Creek). I posted my plans on Cascade Climbers, and began the search for a partner.

 

Ed and I began the trip on July 22. I would have been surprised if such an involved trip had gone all as planned, but I was not prepared to have to hike out after reaching Luna Basin.

 

So our trip turned into a fun climb of Mt. Challenger followed by a testing struggle through the dense thickets of Luna Creek.

 

The bushwacking down Luna Creek certainly made this trip unique. Fred and Helmy Beckey were perhaps the first to bushwack down Luna Creek on their 10-day traverse from Nooksack River to Diablo Dam in 1940. In Challenge of the North Cascades, he describes their experience:

 

After the worst imaginable struggle with flies, devil's club, willows, and alder on the bottom of the valley flood plain, exhausted by a 3-mile struggle against bush, logs, and marsh, we arrived at the Big Beaver trail around 1:30. Our only remaining food was oatmeal and orange concentrate. We ate the oatmeal dry, without sugar.

 

In other words, quite the character building bushwack. So now there is a full backpack somewhere up the Luna Creek drainage (complete with a brand new Beal Joker and Mega Light tent, ice axe, crampons, sleeping bag, climbing shoes, etc). Ed might want it back, but I'd say anyone up to the challenge of Luna Creek deserves keeping what they find!

 

I posted a full trip report (complete with photos) on my webpage:

http://sabegg.googlepages.com/challenger

 

Despite the fact the trip didn't go as planned, getting to climb Challenger and having some stories about bushwacking down Luna Creek was worth it! Already I am making plans to return and complete the traverse, partner and weather dependent of course!

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Baptized by the Pickets!

 

One can only imagine the mental state when the decision was made to ditch the pack...I am glad you both made it out safely.

 

My Pickets trip of 03 is still the most amazing and challenging climbing trip I've done. Suffering is underrated.

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When are you planning on trying again Steph?

Perhaps in late August, after a trip to the Bugaboos....of course, in the end it is weather dependant since it's not worth doing a trip like this in the rain!

I was thinking of entering via Access Creek, gaining the Luna-McMillan saddle, dropping down into Luna Basin, climbing the NB of Fury, traversing to Picket Pass, establishing a camp in the S. Pickets, climbing a few routes there, and then exiting via Goodell Creek....

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Bummer, to put all that effort to get time off and to get back in there to have to back off. At least you got a little were able to get up Challenger. Your pictures are awesome, I wish they loaded faster, my connection here sucks.

 

Ditching the pack is unbelievable. Hopefully none of your stuff was in his pack. I am one of the few probably who enjoys bushwhacking, I haven't been back in the Pickets, but heard a lot about the shwaching in there, that I look forward to experiencing it first hand someday. Hope you have better luck next time.

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Jeeze.. after checkin yr website (thanks!) my only advice is that in the future you should only climb with the big boys/girls around here (that wouldnt be me btw). You seem to to be somewhat of a climbing prodigy and you obviously deserve as worthy of a partner id say - ie be very picky!

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I am one of the few probably who enjoys bushwhacking, I haven't been back in the Pickets, but heard a lot about the shwaching in there, that I look forward to experiencing it first hand someday.

I "enjoy" it for the mental challenge, I suppose. The slide alder, Devil's club, willows, huckleberry, and flies of Luna Creek would be a good place to experience N. Cascade bushwacking! For motivation, there's a pack full of nice gear somewhere up that drainage....

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Steph: We followed you the next day on Challenger. We entered the Range via the no-brush option by climbing over Whatcom Peak via the North Ridge. I would recommend this approach as an elegant route to access the North Pickets. We then made an aborted attempt on Crooked Thumb, climbed Challenger, Fury (east peak), Luna, then exited via Access Creek. Access Creek was not brushy by North Cascades standards, and almost had a trail in places. Sorry your trip did not turn out as planned

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Was so looking forward to your full tr and photos -- but, can't possibly be as disappointed as you -- very sorry it didn't work out Steph -- still an amazing effort and glad you guys made it out safe. Next year!! Your images are AWESOME as always.

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