Tony_Bentley Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 Trip: Mount Triumph - NE Ridge - Solo in a day. Date: 8/2/2007 Trip Report: I figured it was time to step up and do something with this summer that isn’t wrapped around music for a change. I’ve never climbed Triumph and it didn’t seem like the kind of route to persuade someone to do it with me so I shot for the alternative; free solo it. I showed up at the first lake on Wednesday night around midnight but people were camped out right next to the trail and I didn’t know where to go and since I brought a shiver sack I decided to wait until daylight. A few hours later I made a cup of joe and started working my way around the lower lake to the upper lake. I was surprised how little sign of travelers there was the entire way. Granted, not having a map contributes to going my own way and guessing a lot. Somehow I ended up at the col and the entire route was covered with snow up to the base of the route. The first pitch like most other routes shocked me into reality. “Hey Tony, you are not on belay so get moving and quit whining.” Another hour and I was looking at that offwidth. After a few minutes shooting photos on the summit I decided it was time to get going. Armed with only a 30 meter rope I began rappelling where there were decent stations. I think I ended up doing like 10 rappels but somehow it went really fast and I was down before I knew it. Getting back out I made it as far as the mouth of the upper lake before I started to epic. The black flies and mosquitoes were so bad I kept thinking I was going to die. I ran for the top of the knoll above the lake and it all went away. Hours went by, blisters forming, legs cramping, dehydration and lack of food kicking in. I made it to the car by 8:30, which was two hours before I started the night before. Although I brought all of my bivy gear and intended on using it, I didn’t. I just kept moving and the mosquitoes helped me out the entire way. On my way home I stopped for the king size Rockstar. Gets me home every time without any nodding. I noticed the weather was going sour again too. Timed it just right. Southern Pickets Looking down the ridge from the summit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 rad send Mr. Bentley!! did you feel at one with the mountains when the bugs started "free soloing" all over you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 Good job..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 Sounds like a fine summer adventure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmilingWhiteKnuckles Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 Good going, Tony! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted August 4, 2007 Share Posted August 4, 2007 That's a lot of work in a day. I know what you mean about the section between the lakes, I suffered a little lack-of-food bonk in there, and all the up and and down and which way do I go made me slow and crabby. Gets better once you thrutch up to the second lake level though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Bentley Posted August 5, 2007 Author Share Posted August 5, 2007 Yeah, the open terrain and crown of rock above the lakes with the cool breeze blowing off the ridge tops makes it all good. Dave I felt more at one with the mountains when I was moving smoothly. The bugs were a good reminder that I cannot last very long without the comforts of sea level, flip flops and hops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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