off_the_hook Posted June 19, 2007 Share Posted June 19, 2007 Trip: Mount Conness/North Peak - Conness Glacier/NW Ridge Date: 6/18/2007 Trip Report: At 5:25 am Sunday morning I set out from Saddlebag Lake to the Northwest Ridge of North Peak. I caught early morning light at the basin below North Peak and stopped many times for reflection photos. The Northwest Ridge of North Peak was a sweet route with nice exposure and views down to Upper MaCabe Lake. It was short though, and I was atop the summit of North Peak at 7:55 am. View of the Northwest Ridge of North Peak and Sawtooth Ridge in the distance. After resting on the summit, I headed down toward the Conness Glacier. I wasted some time figuring out a route through steep slabs (hoping I could avoid elevation loss) when should have just went around. Once on the Conness Glacier, I cruised up to the couloirs that went to the East Ridge. I chose the middle couloir sneaking around a bergshrund around the far right side (photo below). The couloir had hard snow so I ascended carefully with my trail runner/crampon set-up. Once atop the coulior it was a short walk to the summit of Conness, arriving at 10 am. On top of Conness, I enjoyed the views with a climber who had done the NW Ridge of North Peak earlier in the morning and soloed the North ridge of Conness while I did the Conness glacier. View of Lyell Canyon. View from Conness to Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne View to Half Dome and Cloudsrest. I left the summit and headed down the East Ridge and then into the Alpine lake/Carnegie Institute valley. The basin was gorgeous, but the mosquitoes kept me moving. The walk back up to Saddlebag was a bit of a slog and I arrived at the trailhead at 12:10, 6 hours and 45 minutes after starting. Gear Notes: Ice axe and crampons used and needed on Conness Glacier route, especially in couloir. Approach Notes: Trail in good shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted June 19, 2007 Share Posted June 19, 2007 Damn, nice photos. :tup: Where's all the rain and clouds though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted June 19, 2007 Share Posted June 19, 2007 I spent an entire summer backpacking through that part of the park, mostly off-trail and cross-country, for a job. Unfortunately, I did not carry a camera. Thanks for bringing back those memories. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skitchmo Posted June 19, 2007 Share Posted June 19, 2007 Thanks for posting those pics, I miss that country terribly. Brings back memories of terrifying lightning, a fun jaunt up North Peak Couloir, a relaxing fat splief and an unexpected navy helicopter popping over the ridge... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhyang Posted June 19, 2007 Share Posted June 19, 2007 Nice work The north ridge of Conness is a great solo, though I personally wimped out and rapped the 5.6 downclimb Didja get any shots of the right couloir on North Peak ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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