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[TR] Red Rocks, NV - Levitation 29 4/18/2007


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Trip: Red Rocks, NV - Levitation 29

 

Date: 4/18/2007

 

Trip Report:

I recently got back from Red Rocks 3 friends. The plan was for a day of sport climbing and then long routes the next 4 days with the last evening in a hotel on the strip. I had a great trip and felt really good about my climbing. The first day I redpointed an .11c sport route at Dog Wall that I had been projecting for 2 years now. Apparently that meant that I was ready for some heavier stuff, so I followed Darrell on a mixed 4 pitch .11c the next day. Unbeknownst to me, he was seeing if I was up for Levitation 29. At the end of that climb he proposed the idea of climbing the "Best Route at Red Rocks" so we then we hiked in tocamp at the base of for an early start. Levitation is a 9 pitch 5.11c. I had looked at it in books and pretty much dismissed ever climbing it but Darrell convinced me to go and WOW! what a climb! I led a .10 and a .8 pitch and Darrell led the rest up to pitch 5. The rock quality is just incredible on the whole route, it protects VERY well, and the climbing is incredibly diverse along the way. The coolest feature in my opinion is the big roof on the second pitch that has some huge jugs in it(5.11-/5.9). Way gnarly! Unfortunately, it was also snowing for a good portion of the day (in April!?!?) so we bailed after the crux pitch. I will have to go back and finish that at some point. It is just too good.

While we were camping up the canyon, we saw the most interesting wildlife. I spotted eyes in the shadows watching us so we lit it up and there was a little Ring Tailed Cat. It looked exactly like a ring tailed lemur which was kinda creepy but it was smaller. There were also several herds of Bighorns up the canyon. Oh, and Perigrines too. There was a nest near the route and I got to see a few of them up close. And Greg caught a scorpion trying to enter our tent. I guess that is the one plus of climbing in winter there; no arachnids.

We managed to get on a bunch of other climbs but unfortunately it was a lot more hiking than I had hoped for. 2 of the 4 of us were way out of shape and couldn't do the routes we had originally planned on so that changed the stuff we did do.

 

 

Gear Notes:

single set cams to 2 in., med. nuts, 14 draws,

 

Approach Notes:

There is a good cairn system starting up the side canyon off oak creek that leads to the 3/4th class approach slabs. PAY ATTENTION TO THE CAIRNS! We didnt for a few minutes and had to rap off trees to get back onto the approach. A very full day if you are doing it car->car. Camping in the wash was very nice.

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Total Snaffle!!!

 

And yea, I think the proper thing to do is get Lev and Eagle Dance done with an overnighter up the canyon in between. Like I said, I have to go back.

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