Mountain Pr0n
South Side Slabbage
South Side Slabbage
Contributed by: gapertimmy
more photos
Supporting Sponsors
Pro Mountain Sports
UL Down Jacket. 7.3 oz





Icebreaker Now Available
CC.com Articles *READ ME!*
Intro to Ice Climbing
Intro to Back Country Skiing
Metolius Offset Review
Equipment for Alpinism
Showcase : Integral Designs Reflexion Bivy
PayPal
Who's Online
19 Registered (Alaskaoneday, Atreides, Dirtyleaf, 9 invisible), 20 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
18150 Members
53 Forums
72720 Topics
944372 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 69
tvashtarkatena 64
off_the_hook 61
telemarker 48
G-spotter 47
catbirdseat 46
gapertimmy 42
Feck 41
layton 38
Blake 38
Page 2 of 3 < 1 2 3 >
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#64545 - 09/16/02 04:59 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Marko Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 12/09/00
Posts: 450
TRs: 2 Photos: 57
Loc: Auburn, the other Kent.
Spec-freakin-tacular lump of granite! (Isn't there something like it somewhere in Renton??)
One question though: It took 1/2 an hour to get off the peak, how do you know it was unclimbed?

Mark

Top Bookmark and Share
#64546 - 09/16/02 05:10 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
slaphappy Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/16/01
Posts: 847
TRs: 0 Photos: 2
quote:
Spec-freakin-tacular lump of granite! (Isn't there something like it somewhere in Renton??)
One question though: It took 1/2 an hour to get off the peak, how do you know it was unclimbed?

The same way he new no one could have climbed the N. Ridge of Stuart earlier this year, there were no footprints of course! [laf] [laf] [laf] [Roll Eyes]
_________________________
"I don't believe in fate... I believe in bad luck."

Top Bookmark and Share
#64547 - 09/16/02 05:24 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
jordop Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 02/13/02
Posts: 2722
TRs: 18 Photos: 199
Loc: The Cheeseburger Picnic
The cracks had enough old, large clumps of moss in them at annoying points to suggest FA. Plus, I think most people would report this line, we just happen to spray quite large about it [Big Grin]
Oh, and if it had been done, Dru would have known and shot us down and we wouldn't hear the end of it [Roll Eyes]

[ 09-16-2002, 05:25 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]
_________________________
Never has your Buick found this forward a gear.
-Richard Hugo, "Driving Montana"

Top Bookmark and Share
#64548 - 09/16/02 07:42 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Fence_Sitter Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/02
Posts: 3074
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: I GOTCHA!!!!
plenty o' people jealous of ya...but i'll congratulate ya...hell of a climb... and nice FREE F.A. [Big Drink] [rockband]
_________________________
"No-one fucks with Riti Sped or her tards!"

Top Bookmark and Share
#64549 - 09/16/02 09:26 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
layton Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/27/00
Posts: 6629
TRs: 38 Photos: 769
Loc: Salt Lake City
It think the reason we are pretty sure it hasn't been done is that the logging road in is new this year and the peak is an important part of that range. You'd have to buswack for a week to get to it w/o the new road this year. Who knows on FA's of mtns anyway. Humans have been around for a long time, and I'm sure a few snafflehounds scooped us on the real FA anyway, or for that matter bacteria probably made the summit before it ever saw the light of day. As for recorded history, I think we were the first.

More photos to come.
Jordan, post the topo. I put our route name on your MEC log entry whilt buying new crampons.

Top Bookmark and Share
#64550 - 09/16/02 10:16 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
jordop Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 02/13/02
Posts: 2722
TRs: 18 Photos: 199
Loc: The Cheeseburger Picnic
If anyone REALLY needs this, here it is. I think we've sprayed long enough on this, no? [Roll Eyes]
 -
_________________________
Never has your Buick found this forward a gear.
-Richard Hugo, "Driving Montana"

Top Bookmark and Share
#64551 - 09/17/02 08:36 AM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
Actually, I will tell you that road is not new this year - it has been there for 3 years. And the Kookipi to Big Silver road has been in place for more than 10 years. I wouldn't claim any of those peaks as a FA anyways as they were all climbed by prospectors c. 1900 lookin' for the great Fraser River motherlode. Not to mention deer hunters, by the way, its gun season now so dont forget to spraypaint your body bright orange before heading up the Nahatlatch.

[ 09-17-2002, 08:38 AM: Message edited by: Dru ]
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

Top Bookmark and Share
#64552 - 09/17/02 08:39 AM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Cpt.Caveman Offline
sprayer

Registered: 04/18/01
Posts: 9633
TRs: 5 Photos: 0
It didnt sound like they were claiming to be the first humans on that summit. At least to me. Dru it sounds like you are more jealous than anything [Razz] Admit it the rock looks good and so does the peak. Now shut up [Big Drink]

Top Bookmark and Share
#64553 - 09/17/02 09:06 AM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
quote:
Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:
It didnt sound like they were claiming to be the first humans on that summit. At least to me. Dru it sounds like you are more jealous than anything [Razz] Admit it the rock looks good and so does the peak. Now shut up [Big Drink]

I have no doubt that the route was a FA but the question came up was the peak an FA or not and I thought I would clarify the issue also how long the road has been in place. If they didnt find a cairn on the summit they can call it a FRA.

Yeah it is a good looking peak and nice rock although maybe not the biggest line in the area. HOWEVER I think I'm gonna have to rework my reverse psychology considering that Jordan actually went into that area after I posted the picture of the other peak 6800 as a spoiler. [laf] [laf] [laf]
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

Top Bookmark and Share
#64554 - 09/17/02 01:21 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
layton Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/27/00
Posts: 6629
TRs: 38 Photos: 769
Loc: Salt Lake City
Ok, I'm not claiming FA on the mountain. The was no summit Cairn, so FRA. It would be cool if we were the first ones up there, but there's no way to know, like I posted before. We made a cairn of the summit for you Dru. I'm sure Jordan agrees w/our stand on at least a FRA on the peak itself. Anyway, this is getting overdone. I don't want to spray too much about this. There are about a million other much better, and harder routes out there put up my much better people than me and this is an insignificant speck in the world of climbing.

...But it was pretty important to me. Someone go do it this weekend. Dru?

Top Bookmark and Share
#64555 - 09/17/02 01:32 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
i plan on doing it sometime, maybe when Im fact checking grades for the next guidebook. but next weekend I have a date with an unclimbed couloir, weather and partners permitting.

i will give jordan 3 guesses at the unclimbed couloir location and if he gets it i will buy him a beer. [laf] if he makes 3 guesses and does NOT get it he can buy me one [Big Drink]
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

Top Bookmark and Share
#64556 - 09/17/02 02:24 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
jordop Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 02/13/02
Posts: 2722
TRs: 18 Photos: 199
Loc: The Cheeseburger Picnic
You're on punk:
1. N face Cook
2. N face Welch (suicide?)
3. SW gully Matier
I drink Guinness [Big Drink]
_________________________
Never has your Buick found this forward a gear.
-Richard Hugo, "Driving Montana"

Top Bookmark and Share
#64557 - 09/17/02 02:28 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
jordop Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 02/13/02
Posts: 2722
TRs: 18 Photos: 199
Loc: The Cheeseburger Picnic
Stuff you can't do in a weekend but big:
S face Northgraves couloir, n face, e ridge Lindeman, whatever that HUGE south facing mother is when you're driving up the Elaho in the Spring (wilson?)
_________________________
Never has your Buick found this forward a gear.
-Richard Hugo, "Driving Montana"

Top Bookmark and Share
#64558 - 09/17/02 02:35 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
quote:
Originally posted by jordop:
You're on punk:
1. N face Cook
2. N face Welch (suicide?)
3. SW gully Matier
I drink Guinness [Big Drink]

You owe me a beer. I will tell you where it is Im going after this weekend is over. It involves illegal border crossing so I cant say more than this yet in case the guards stop me.
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

Top Bookmark and Share
#64559 - 09/18/02 11:56 AM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
layton Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/27/00
Posts: 6629
TRs: 38 Photos: 769
Loc: Salt Lake City
El Puerto Chico????
You totally gave it away w/the border crossing remark.

Top Bookmark and Share
#64560 - 09/18/02 11:58 AM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
layton Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/27/00
Posts: 6629
TRs: 38 Photos: 769
Loc: Salt Lake City
Wait, or maybe in Lillooettteeetoooeet? Apparently the ice is in I've heard! I'm there.
If it's not over 60degrees it only counts now if you ski down it.

Top Bookmark and Share
#64561 - 09/18/02 04:28 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
quote:
Originally posted by michael_layton:
El Puerto Chico????
You totally gave it away w/the border crossing remark.

It might not cause I went on recon today and found the ice is not present or is well camouflaged when I look with my high powered work binoculars. Maybe I will go climb Cathedral. That also involves illegal border crossings. [Big Grin]
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

Top Bookmark and Share
#64562 - 09/18/02 04:36 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
jordop Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 02/13/02
Posts: 2722
TRs: 18 Photos: 199
Loc: The Cheeseburger Picnic
quote:
Originally posted by Dru:
quote:
Originally posted by michael_layton:
El Puerto Chico????
You totally gave it away w/the border crossing remark.

It might not cause I went on recon today and found the ice is not present or is well camouflaged when I look with my high powered work binoculars. Maybe I will go climb Cathedral. That also involves illegal border crossings. [Big Grin]
Somewhere up the newly 2WD Nesakwacth I presume? Can you do Cathedral in two days? Or ya gonna knock off sick for a third?
_________________________
Never has your Buick found this forward a gear.
-Richard Hugo, "Driving Montana"

Top Bookmark and Share
#64563 - 09/18/02 04:40 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
quote:
Originally posted by jordop:
quote:
Originally posted by Dru:
quote:
Originally posted by michael_layton:
El Puerto Chico????
You totally gave it away w/the border crossing remark.

It might not cause I went on recon today and found the ice is not present or is well camouflaged when I look with my high powered work binoculars. Maybe I will go climb Cathedral. That also involves illegal border crossings. [Big Grin]
Somewhere up the newly 2WD Nesakwacth I presume? Can you do Cathedral in two days? Or ya gonna knock off sick for a third?
I love the fact you have so no idea where it is Im talking about. [laf] [laf] [laf]

I can take 3 days off every other weekend, AND I DO !!! [Big Grin] [Big Grin] [Big Grin]
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

Top Bookmark and Share
#64564 - 09/18/02 04:46 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
jordop Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 02/13/02
Posts: 2722
TRs: 18 Photos: 199
Loc: The Cheeseburger Picnic
quote:
Originally posted by Dru:
quote:
Originally posted by jordop:
quote:
Originally posted by Dru:
quote:
Originally posted by michael_layton:
El Puerto Chico????
You totally gave it away w/the border crossing remark.

It might not cause I went on recon today and found the ice is not present or is well camouflaged when I look with my high powered work binoculars. Maybe I will go climb Cathedral. That also involves illegal border crossings. [Big Grin]
Somewhere up the newly 2WD Nesakwacth I presume? Can you do Cathedral in two days? Or ya gonna knock off sick for a third?
I love the fact you have so no idea where it is Im talking about.

I can take 3 days off every other weekend, AND I DO !!! [Big Grin] [Big Grin] [Big Grin]

Maybe I do know where it is you're talking about and I'm just using some of your famous reverse psychology [Razz] [laf]
_________________________
Never has your Buick found this forward a gear.
-Richard Hugo, "Driving Montana"

Top Bookmark and Share
#64565 - 09/18/02 04:50 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
quote:
Originally posted by jordop:
quote:
Originally posted by Dru:
quote:
Originally posted by jordop:
quote:
Originally posted by Dru:
quote:
Originally posted by michael_layton:
El Puerto Chico????
You totally gave it away w/the border crossing remark.

It might not cause I went on recon today and found the ice is not present or is well camouflaged when I look with my high powered work binoculars. Maybe I will go climb Cathedral. That also involves illegal border crossings. [Big Grin]
Somewhere up the newly 2WD Nesakwacth I presume? Can you do Cathedral in two days? Or ya gonna knock off sick for a third?
I love the fact you have so no idea where it is Im talking about.

I can take 3 days off every other weekend, AND I DO !!! [Big Grin] [Big Grin] [Big Grin]

Maybe I do know where it is you're talking about and I'm just using some of your famous reverse psychology [Razz] [laf]
Ok I was talking about the obvious unclimbed snow face on the NE side of Mt Redoubt
[Roll Eyes]
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

Top Bookmark and Share
#64566 - 10/18/02 01:02 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
layton Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/27/00
Posts: 6629
TRs: 38 Photos: 769
Loc: Salt Lake City
I finally figured out how to do this. Here are some more photos.

 -

 -

This is the photo of the other peak Jordop,Necro, and I attempted. I went up through the overhangs in the middle. Yuck

 -

Top Bookmark and Share
#64567 - 10/18/02 03:29 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Smoker Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/03/00
Posts: 242
TRs: 4 Photos: 4
Loc: Bellevue, Washington USA
Hey you peak baggers Nice Work!

Great job with the climbin' and sprayin' !!

Keep it up and Dru will get jealous [laf]
_________________________
------------------------------------------------- " Let them eat cake!"

Top Bookmark and Share
#64568 - 10/18/02 03:55 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
jordop Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 02/13/02
Posts: 2722
TRs: 18 Photos: 199
Loc: The Cheeseburger Picnic
Mike, I never posted that one shot of me on bivy.com cause it looks like I'm trying to take a shit. It wouldn't have taken much effort there though [Roll Eyes] [laf]
_________________________
Never has your Buick found this forward a gear.
-Richard Hugo, "Driving Montana"

Top Bookmark and Share
#64569 - 10/18/02 04:14 PM Re: First Ascent-"Back of Beyond Buttress"
Dru Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 02/08/01
Posts: 30031
TRs: 29 Photos: 304
Loc: Collapsing State Vector
quote:
Originally posted by jordop:
Mike, I never posted that one shot of me on bivy.com cause it looks like I'm trying to take a shit. It wouldn't have taken much effort there though [Roll Eyes] [laf]

Alpine Dook.
_________________________
t3h v01d, b1 d3f1n1t10n 4mless, there4 pr3d8s 4ll 4m & w1ll r3m41n

Top Bookmark and Share
Page 2 of 3 < 1 2 3 >


Moderator:  cascadeclimbers, Feck, fern 


Generated in 0.533 seconds in which 0.128 seconds were spent on a total of 13 queries. Zlib compression enabled.