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#643064 - 02/01/07 01:07 PM Oregon Bolt Replacement *****
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Oregons rock climbing routes sport many old rusty bolts in need of replacement. With a generous a donation from ASCA I was given many a bolts do do some replacement work. I figured I would start a thread to let people know whats been replaced, and for people to shout out what they think should be replaced. Most bolts at smith are realaced with 1/2x3.75 or 1/2x3.25 RAWL 5 peice. In the menagerie or areas where hand drilled, I use 3/8x2.25 RAWL 5 peice. All with Fixe hangers, some with rap rings where needed. Post up or PM me if you want to help out and go climb some stuff!

Smith Rock State Park:

Monkey Face - East Face
2 anchor bolts atop P2
w/ Jim Anglin 2/10/07

Picnic Lunch Wall - Original Picnic Lunch Wall aid route:
2 anchor bolts below the roof on p4
w/ Jim Anglin & Cody Peterson Jan 07

Mesa Verde Wall - Palo Verde:
4 anchor bolts on top of the 4th class ledge
Jan 07

Staender Ridge - Bettes Needle:
4 rap anchors
w/ Cathrine Power Oct 06

Staender Ridge - The Dinosuar:
2 anchor bolts
w/ Jake Hector Oct 06

Menagere Wilderness:

Panorama Point - Essential Reality:
4 lead bolts on P1
w/ Jim Anglin Nov 06

North Rabbit Ear - Dod Route:
Most lead and anchor bolts
done by KB 2006

South Rabbit Ear - Bauman Route:
Most lead and all anchor bolts
done by KB 2006

Turkey Monster - Dod Route:
1 belay bolt atop P2
w/ Nick Dolceck Apr 05

Wolf Rock:

Barad-Dur:
Many lead and anchor bolts
done by CF & JR Fall '06






Note: Not all of these where replaced with ASCA hardware some where done with personal bolts.


Edited by corvallisclimb (02/10/07 09:27 PM)

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#643070 - 02/01/07 01:14 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15435
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Good work....


_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#643136 - 02/01/07 02:18 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
And mods mabey you could make this a sticky since its kidna an ongoing project?

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#643594 - 02/02/07 03:01 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
Moof Offline
member

Registered: 02/01/07
Posts: 106
TRs: 0 Photos: 3
If you need a bolting slave, give a hollar. I've probably replaced about a half dozen bolts in various places (squamish, cosumnes river gorge, don't remember where else). I'd be up for trading off hammer duty, being a belay slave, or whatever. I've got some SS fixe hangers and SS rawl's could also chip in. I didn't get to do some planned bolt replacement before I moved away...

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#646504 - 02/10/07 05:18 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Moof]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
gave the monkey some love... will return to work on last bolt ladder pitch when its not raining

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#646508 - 02/10/07 05:49 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
Billy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/12/01
Posts: 229
TRs: 11 Photos: 30
Loc: Slinky Factory
Good work! How about Santiam Hwy Ledges........

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#646512 - 02/10/07 06:13 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Billy]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: Billy
Good work! How about Santiam Hwy Ledges........


funny you mention it thats in the plans for the next month or so, then possibly abraxas.

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#646552 - 02/10/07 09:16 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
JBD Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/02/03
Posts: 4
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Central Oregon
I upgraded a number of the anchor bolts on Abaxas a few years back... probably 8 years ago or so. From the top down new anchors at all locations except the anchor at top of pitch one.
1/2" x 4-5" with Metolius rap hangers and some with welded chain links from Dan Carlson (orig. owner of Redpoint).
At the time I was intending to clean up the entire route with the idea that it deserves to get more traffic as the rock is quite good and the exposure is superb. I may have added some protection bolts at fixed pin locations but cannot recall all the details at this time. Did a bit of cleaning and changed the anchor location for the big pitch up the Dogleg crack. It is now at a natural stance at very start of this wild pitch. Did not replace the hanging belay part way up Dogleg as that would not be used in a free ascent and could problaby be removed.
From what I remember a quick scrub and maybe another bolt or two and this would be quite possibly the best multi-pitch route in the park outside of the Monk.

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#648667 - 02/16/07 11:55 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: JBD]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
East Face anchors before:


East Face anchors after:



Note: All excess hardaware was properly removed, though not shown in the picture.

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#656383 - 03/12/07 02:52 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith:

New Testiment Slab

Revelations/Irreverence
Replaced 3 anchors bolts W Mike Layton Feb 07

Revelations/Irreverence
Replaced 4 protection bolts W Ian Roth Mar 07

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#656395 - 03/12/07 03:21 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6290
TRs: 56 Photos: 1214
Loc: PDX
Nice work Tyler!

Consider replacing the belay bolts on Free Lunch... the first pitch anchor is okay but top of 2, 3 and 4 could use an upgrade. Great route that would be even better with new hardware!

Speaking of PLW I believe one of the two bolts at the top of pitch 2 is still missing on the farmer route also...

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#656399 - 03/12/07 03:43 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: John Frieh]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
John- Thank you! I thought that was you up there yesterday, I was going to yell but didnt want to sound like a dumb ass. Let me know if you want to get on free lunch again sometime soon we could fix up those anchors.

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#656403 - 03/12/07 04:33 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
Winter Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/13/00
Posts: 2375
TRs: 20 Photos: 188
Loc: freshiez!
Guys, thanks a lot for following through on this.
_________________________
chriswinter.blogspot.com

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#664475 - 03/31/07 09:40 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Winter]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3572
TRs: 74 Photos: 646
Loc: Seattle!
I have hung on enough of that crap to REALLY appreciate the work you guys did, thanks for making those adventure routes accessable
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#664608 - 04/01/07 08:39 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: wayne]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
unitll someone figures out how to edit old post im going to just add onto the bottom


smith

Revelations/Irrevernece
3 Anchor bolts
W Mike Latyton 2/07

Revelations/Irrevernece
4 Lead bolts
W Ian Roth 3/07

menagerie

Rooster Rock - Original Route
1 Lead bolt
4/1/07


whoops! I double posted the above... oh well anyways I went up and rope soloed rooster rock yesterday. After talking to Jim A on the phone decided to replace the one old bolt on the original route thats just been there for ever. Now Rooster Rock one of Oregons original sport routes can easily be lead with no gear at about 5.6R only clipping the lookout bolts and the one new bolt. If you want to safely climb it bring 3 cams 1ea #1-#3.


Edited by corvallisclimb (04/02/07 12:25 PM)

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#669608 - 04/16/07 01:01 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
retired Offline
member

Registered: 01/16/03
Posts: 158
TRs: 4 Photos: 49
Loc: White Salmon WA.
Good work Tyler...just talked to Greg Barnes at Red Rocks...He was wonderding what we had been up to with the asca project and I filled him in. See you soon.

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#674847 - 04/29/07 02:10 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: retired]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
smith rock state park

Pheonix Buttress - Carbid
2 Anchor bolts
W Mark D 4/07

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#674856 - 04/29/07 03:28 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15435
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Nice work fellas! Way to go Mark!
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#676333 - 05/02/07 11:06 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
111 Offline
veteran

Registered: 01/28/05
Posts: 1381
TRs: 23 Photos: 268
Loc: Oreegun
I talked to some climbers at smith last week who said there was a SUPER loose anchor bolt on a buttress just to the left of asterix(if you are facing east) on the west side crags. I dont remember what they said the route name was but I remember them saying the wall had something related to "snakes" in the name. Does anyone know what route(or at least the wall) I am jabbering about?
_________________________
"We have not inherited the earth from our parents, we have borrowed it from our children."

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#676335 - 05/02/07 11:10 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: 111]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15435
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Snake Roof?
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#676439 - 05/02/07 02:04 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
hemp22 Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/28/04
Posts: 430
TRs: 2 Photos: 65
Loc: OR
they might have been talking about something on either Snake Rock or Angel Flight Buttress - those 2 walls are both basically the same area, and are not far to the left of the pass when facing east.
Don't know which route they'd be talking about, but there are a few new-ish moderate sport routes to the right of split image that see a lot of traffic these days - might be one of those.

Edit: I think the newer routes are listed in the red addendum


Edited by hemp22 (05/02/07 02:06 PM)

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#687641 - 05/26/07 12:54 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: hemp22]
pointy Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/14/05
Posts: 13
TRs: 1 Photos: 0
Loc: At large
How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.

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#687659 - 05/26/07 04:37 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: pointy]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15435
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Originally Posted By: pointy
How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.


I agree....if I had time I would do it myself.
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#687690 - 05/26/07 09:49 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: kevbone
Originally Posted By: pointy
How about the rap anchor at the very end of the Marsupial traverse? Those things are pretty sketchy.


I agree....if I had time I would do it myself.


I agree the past few times I've been out there I havent brought the drill.

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#687691 - 05/26/07 09:51 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie

Rooster Rock
Callis SE face

4 anchor bolts
8 lead bolts (6 on P1, 2 on P2)

W Jim Anglin May 07

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