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#897633 - 08/03/09 08:35 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement ***** [Re: kevbone]
MatthewS Offline
n00b

Registered: 05/19/05
Posts: 47
TRs: 1 Photos: 13
Loc: Portland, OR
Given how many people are always hanging on it, replacing the first bolt of Smerk wouldn't be a bad idea. The two anchors on top of the Chemistry slab are also pretty lousy.

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#897635 - 08/03/09 08:38 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: MatthewS]
kevbone Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 12295
TRs: 3 Photos: 267
Loc: land of the little people.
Great idea. I dont even think the first bolt on smerk is a real bolt. More like bent metal that someone made in there garage.
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#897729 - 08/03/09 04:07 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
BillA Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/05/03
Posts: 368
TRs: 3 Photos: 8
Funny you should mention re-bolting at carver, we are on it. Will keep folks updated.

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#901162 - 08/17/09 12:51 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: BillA]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1026
TRs: 20 Photos: 315
Loc: HW20 corridor
Menagerie

The Sphinx
1 summit anchor bolt and webbing

The Pharoh
1 summit anchor bolt and webbing

W/ Catherine Power Aug 09

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#903766 - 08/28/09 02:15 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1026
TRs: 20 Photos: 315
Loc: HW20 corridor
now there is no reason to not go up there and climb this route.

Smith Rock

The Wombat - Santiam Highway Ledges
14 lead bolts
6 anchor bolts

W/ Jim Ablao & Aaron Webb August 09

Most thanks for this goes to Jim for hiking up most of the gear and ropes. And fixing a line so I could jug up and discover the anchor had been half chewed through by a rat while I bounced around on it. Now go get some this is an incredible route.

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#903784 - 08/28/09 04:02 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
BillA Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/05/03
Posts: 368
TRs: 3 Photos: 8
Yeah dude, thanks for doing that! Now twitter that shit braaaah!

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#904108 - 08/31/09 09:31 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: BillA]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1026
TRs: 20 Photos: 315
Loc: HW20 corridor
Menagerie Wilderness

Boulder Dome - 10b finish option
1 lead bolt

W/ Brian Gilbert August 09

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#904111 - 08/31/09 09:35 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 12295
TRs: 3 Photos: 267
Loc: land of the little people.
tup
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#908274 - 09/17/09 01:25 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1026
TRs: 20 Photos: 315
Loc: HW20 corridor
Menagerie Wilderness

The Bridge - Butterfly Buttress
2 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

W/ Brian Gilbert Aug 09

and while we where climbing that route Chris rapped in and...

The Bridge - The Newt Route
3 Lead Bolts
4 Lead Hangers
3 Anchor Hangers
1 Added lead bolt to P3(since its his FA)

By Chris Fralick

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#908276 - 09/17/09 01:29 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1026
TRs: 20 Photos: 315
Loc: HW20 corridor
oh whoops then I came back a couple days later by my self and did a little more work on the bridge...

Menagerie Wilderness
The Bridge - Butterfly Buttress
1 Lead Bolt
2 Anchor bolts
removed the offending tree during the mid route rap and the bush wich gets in the way linking P3 and P4

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#911685 - 09/30/09 09:56 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1026
TRs: 20 Photos: 315
Loc: HW20 corridor
Menagerie Wilderness
South Rabbit Ear - West Face
1 lead bolt on P2 (fat 1/2" hand drilled!)

w/ Wilbur Nazarian & Mai Hyman Sept 09

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#911825 - 09/30/09 05:47 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
BillA Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/05/03
Posts: 368
TRs: 3 Photos: 8
Carver Cliff

About a month ago I replaced the first two bolts on Smerk and the anchor at the top of the crack to the right (the anchor most people traverse over to when they climb Smerk).

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#920576 - 11/09/09 05:21 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: BillA]
beaconben Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/15/04
Posts: 54
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Portland, OR
I have not read this thread for a while. You rock Tyler. It is awesome that you and others are doing this. I can't wait to get on Santiam Hwy Ledges.
_________________________
Who's got your undies Walter?

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#941712 - 02/14/10 10:36 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: beaconben]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1026
TRs: 20 Photos: 315
Loc: HW20 corridor
Smith Rock State Park

Diamonds and Rust Buttress - Slow Train (5.7R)
8 lead bolts 2 anchor bolts

w/ Catherine Power and John Rich 2/13/10


This is a cool adventure route that should get some traffic with some new bolts. A long 150' pitch to a single rope rap or continue up Diamonds and Rust for two more pitches.

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#941725 - 02/15/10 07:51 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
letsroll Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/18/04
Posts: 1044
TRs: 9 Photos: 20
Loc: In the shadows shadow of Snibb...
thanks for the update. Need to get out that way an check it out.

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#945001 - 02/28/10 08:22 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: letsroll]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1026
TRs: 20 Photos: 315
Loc: HW20 corridor
Wolf Rock

Barad Dur
2 anchor bolts on P1
3 lead bolts on P1

w/ Chris Fralick and Dave Trepp 2/28/10

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#945569 - 03/03/10 10:15 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1026
TRs: 20 Photos: 315
Loc: HW20 corridor

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#945588 - 03/03/10 11:14 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Offline
sprayer

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 8657
TRs: 69 Photos: 665
Loc: Oceania
dude! seriously, do you have a regifting plan? i can find a nice new home for quite a few of those guys! smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#945589 - 03/03/10 11:40 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: ivan]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1026
TRs: 20 Photos: 315
Loc: HW20 corridor
Those slings have at lease two or three more seasons left in them. Say 2 bucks a sling? lmao

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#945996 - 03/06/10 12:12 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1026
TRs: 20 Photos: 315
Loc: HW20 corridor
Smith Rock

The Wombat - CL Concerto
4 Anchor Bolts
1 Lead Bolt

W/ Bill Amos 2/2010

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