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#804952 - 06/09/08 11:28 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement ***** [Re: ivan]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15443
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Well its still there. I did not remove the history. Simply added a new one in a better position.
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#804957 - 06/09/08 11:35 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17362
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
ah nice - a menu of anchors! kinda like the upper anchors of jensen's ridge!
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#810035 - 06/25/08 12:31 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
pierceadams Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/18/08
Posts: 13
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
good looking out for the safety of others and many thanks for using personally bought gear.

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#810212 - 06/25/08 01:06 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: pierceadams]
geoff Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 368
TRs: 8 Photos: 270
If anyone is looking for a good bolt candidate to replace, I always thought the third or fourth bolt on the second pitch of New Generation at Carver, the one right before you traverse to the left, is the worst looking bolt I've ever clipped.

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#810659 - 06/26/08 12:19 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: ivan]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie

Rooster Rock
2 Anchor bolts on the summit.

PS and if any one knows who added the nice 1/2" bolts to the summit of rooster rock most likley with a power drill. Let me know so I can cut their nuts off. Tell em they can have their hangers back.

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#810675 - 06/26/08 12:44 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15443
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Is that bad that someone added bolts to the top?
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#810682 - 06/26/08 12:52 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
yeah, convenience anchors in the wilderness suck!


Edited by corvallisclimb (06/26/08 09:06 PM)
Edit Reason: i suck

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#851897 - 11/18/08 02:42 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Menagerie

The Bridge
The Newt Route
1 anchor bolt atop P2
1 lead bolt on P3

W/ Chris Fralick and Randy Rimby 11/08


and thats how you drill


hidden single bolt belay


Edited by corvallisclimb (11/18/08 03:14 PM)

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#865633 - 02/04/09 10:36 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
rocky_joe Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 02/25/08
Posts: 510
TRs: 16 Photos: 72
Loc: High Horse Mountain
The last two bolts on Double Trouble at Smith are pretty sketchy. Might as well be plant hangers, esp the last one which spun 180 deg. I didn't even bother clipping it. The anchors are also a little unnerving, there was definitely a significant amount of creaking going on during the lower.
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#877619 - 04/16/09 03:37 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: rocky_joe]
Ishmael Offline
member

Registered: 04/05/07
Posts: 157
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Pacific Ocean
Thanks for the replacement work. I used some of those bolts on a trip to Smith this spring...

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#878205 - 04/21/09 04:47 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Ishmael]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Twin Pillar's:
New anchor bolt on top of main pillar, Tyler styled the hand drill in a few minutes flat. You can now safely get back to the tera firma.

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#878249 - 04/22/09 08:22 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: powderhound]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 574
TRs: 23 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
did the main pillar go free?

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#878310 - 04/22/09 12:57 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: fgw]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Twin Pillars - Mill Creek Wilderness
Main Pillar - Campfire Route?
1 Lead Bolt
1 Anchor Bolt

W Bryan Schmitz 4/19/07


Originally Posted By: fgw
did the main pillar go free?


ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows!

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#878319 - 04/22/09 02:23 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: corvallisclimb
Twin Pillars - Mill Creek Wilderness
Main Pillar - Campfire Route?
1 Lead Bolt
1 Anchor Bolt

W Brian Schmitz 4/19/07


Originally Posted By: fgw
did the main pillar go free?


ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows!


the main pillar is free via the "north face route" f7!!!! the campfire route could be free, but it would be a ballsy endeavor, not something you would do onsight, having only done the lower half free on TR, I thought the overhang would go around 5.11, maybe harder.

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#878330 - 04/22/09 03:12 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: powderhound]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 574
TRs: 23 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
thanks & thanks for the efforts Tyler.

so the F6 A3 line goes up the groove in the photo above guy's head by chance?

[img]http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1077/543101217_9ae9d45848.jpg?v=0[/img]

edit: sorry dont know why photo's not showing up but the link's right.


Edited by fgw (04/22/09 03:13 PM)

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#878334 - 04/22/09 03:25 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: fgw]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
yeah...and the north face starts about 15 feet left of the groove in a right facing corner. The second pitch of the north face climb...joins the weakness above the groove.

did you guys climb the pillar? We didn't find anything in the way of anchor material on top, we were wondering how long its been since the thing has been summited.

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#878422 - 04/22/09 09:53 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: fgw]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Originally Posted By: fgw
thanks & thanks for the efforts Tyler.

so the F6 A3 line goes up the groove in the photo above guy's head by chance?



edit: sorry dont know why photo's not showing up but the link's right.


theres some more text after the .jpg

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#881657 - 05/13/09 02:25 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith Rock

Diheadreals - Methuselas Column
5 Lead Bolts
2 Anchor Bolts

Diheadreals - Rattle Snake Chimney
1 Lead Bolt

Diheadreals - Bunny Face
6 Hangers
2 Anchors Bolts, to top out.

Diheaderals - Rabbit Stew
2 Anchors Bolts

Cocaine Gully - Hippos On Ice
3 Lead Bolts

All with Jim Ablao 5/9/09

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#881700 - 05/13/09 04:19 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
appreciate your hard work and time, tyler.

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#884196 - 05/28/09 09:40 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: powderhound]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Smith Rock

Red Wall - Helter Skelter
6 Anchor bolts
4 Lead bolts

with Wilbur Nazarien 5/26/09

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#884208 - 05/28/09 10:30 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15443
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Good old wilbur.....thanks tyler.
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#888976 - 06/19/09 01:12 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: kevbone]
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359
Wolf Rock

Sport Arch - Right Corner Arete
2 Anchor bolts
6 lead bolts

with John Rich 6/16/09

acctually i added a bolt and moved the anchor up 10 feet to a nice stance so now its a little bit longer

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#888981 - 06/19/09 01:19 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17362
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
never underestimate the enthusiasm of a man w/ a drill smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#897587 - 08/02/09 10:20 PM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: corvallisclimb]
Jay Chute Offline
n00b

Registered: 08/28/07
Posts: 43
TRs: 1 Photos: 33
Anyone interested in re-bolting at Carver. It needs serious help.

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#897625 - 08/03/09 07:45 AM Re: Oregon Bolt Replacement [Re: Jay Chute]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15443
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Which climbs?
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