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#537860 - 01/26/06 10:16 AM [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
skykilo Offline
old hand

Registered: 09/04/02
Posts: 1167
TRs: 24 Photos: 8
Loc: Vancouver BC
Climb: Chair Peak-North Face

Date of Climb: 1/25/2006

Trip Report:
"The Electric Chair"



Eric and I climbed and skied the North Face of Chair Peak yesterday.

I really wanted to do it Tuesday but nobody could go. Ross is on some 'I gotta get ready for a two-week trip to rock climb in the desert sun' bullshit. At least Eric could muster Wednesday. The day-late penalty was ubiquitous crust.

We simulclimbed about 5 100' pitches. I stopped at a tree to rerack below a cruxy looking spot near the top.





"Hey Eric, want to do a lead so you can say you pulled your weight?"

"Sure you shit-talker."

Eric styled his pitch, with an undercling to boot, before I followed and we simuled another half pitch to the top.

Forget the crust, there's powder right underneath it! Eric had brought the oh-so-appropriate Karhu Jaks for the descent. He wasn't throwing the towel and I sure as hell wasn't going to tell him what he could and couldn't do.

I'll let Eric speak for himself, but I skied with two 15m raps. (The rappel spots are the magenta dots on the route photo.) My sidestepping quotient was a little high, but I did make turns on every section I didn't rap. The turns off the top above where we rappeled the highest 70-degree ice bulge were pretty damn exhilirating.


"Look ma, I'm rapping switch!"

The weather had turned into a snowy whiteout by the time we got off the face. I made it to my intramural game at the IMA on time and balled hard on mofos. Yeah.

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#537861 - 01/26/06 10:20 AM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
catbirdseat Offline
Elite Sprayforce Team

Registered: 10/09/02
Posts: 13179
TRs: 46 Photos: 144
Loc: Anaheim, CA
It seems like it has been a long time since a Chair Peak NF trip report.
_________________________
You don't do an encore if you just played Mahler.

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#537862 - 01/26/06 10:25 AM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
DirtyHarry Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 07/28/04
Posts: 3571
TRs: 5 Photos: 44
I hear that Eric character is a homo, can't ski for shit, and sucks at basketball. I wish I had three hands, so I could give your climb three thumbs down!!!

HAHA. Nice work. That's some pretty bitchin new wave ski mountaineering celebration shit, bitches!!!
_________________________
Watch yer top knot.

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#537863 - 01/26/06 10:28 AM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
To_The_Top Moderator Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1523
TRs: 1 Photos: 40
Loc: Seattle
Wild!
_________________________
Say no to slide alder

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#537864 - 01/26/06 10:32 AM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
Mjölner Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/25/06
Posts: 24
TRs: 0 Photos: 15
Loc: seattle
Hell yea! Way to get it done.

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#537865 - 01/26/06 10:35 AM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
Cobra_Commander Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 01/31/05
Posts: 3170
TRs: 0 Photos: 6
Loc: Lair
the twinned tail of the jaks must have been sweet for that switch rap. Is that tanner hall?
_________________________
Why buy a mattress anywhere else ding!

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#537866 - 01/26/06 10:53 AM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
AllYouCanEat Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/09/01
Posts: 558
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Tacoma, WA, US
You crack me up, Sky. I wish I could've joined you, but armCHAIR ski mountaineering will have to do for now
_________________________
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TR's

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#537867 - 01/26/06 11:01 AM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
TeleRoss Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 06/24/03
Posts: 649
TRs: 25 Photos: 286
Loc: out there somewhere
All I know is that it is 70 degrees and sunny in J-Tree!!!

nice work
_________________________
"Don't look and you will see, don't listen and you will hear."

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#537868 - 01/26/06 12:12 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
philfort Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/05/00
Posts: 1172
TRs: 8 Photos: 33
Loc: Seattle
We simulclimbed about 5 100m pitches.




I call BS!!!
5 * 100m = 500m = 1640ft.

So... you guys roped up at Source Lake or something??

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#537869 - 01/26/06 12:14 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
kurthicks Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 1937
TRs: 18 Photos: 245
Loc: Der Town

Quote:

We simulclimbed about 5 100m pitches



i remember 4x 60-70m pitches when I did it. did the route get substantially longer? or is my memory fading already?
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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#537870 - 01/26/06 12:21 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
sirwoofalot Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/01/05
Posts: 711
TRs: 1 Photos: 3
Loc: Edmonds, WA
BS or not, it still was a job well done!

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#537871 - 01/26/06 12:34 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
skykilo Offline
old hand

Registered: 09/04/02
Posts: 1167
TRs: 24 Photos: 8
Loc: Vancouver BC
I meant 100', OOPS.

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#537872 - 01/26/06 12:36 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
skykilo Offline
old hand

Registered: 09/04/02
Posts: 1167
TRs: 24 Photos: 8
Loc: Vancouver BC
What're you guys trying to say? The TR totally says 100'!

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#537873 - 01/26/06 01:07 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
philfort Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/05/00
Posts: 1172
TRs: 8 Photos: 33
Loc: Seattle
Clearly you are just trying to make your trip sound more impressive than it was... 'cause face it - it just WASN'T IMPRESSIVE ENOUGH!
Folks on tay might fall for lies about the height of the north face, but here on cc.com, no way boy...

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#537874 - 01/26/06 01:10 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
Cobra_Commander Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 01/31/05
Posts: 3170
TRs: 0 Photos: 6
Loc: Lair
Folks on TAY only have the specs for the muir/palmer snowfields memorized. The winter stuff throws them off a bit.
_________________________
Why buy a mattress anywhere else ding!

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#537875 - 01/26/06 01:43 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
pms Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 11/04/00
Posts: 408
TRs: 3 Photos: 4
Loc: Seattle, WA 98105
I've heard that route isn't in condition this year, what the hell you trying to say...

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#537876 - 01/26/06 02:54 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
ivan Offline
sprayer

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 8655
TRs: 69 Photos: 663
Loc: Oceania
sweet pix
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#537877 - 01/26/06 03:14 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
Weekend_Climberz Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 3357
TRs: 4 Photos: 139
Loc: Overlooking Elliot Bay
Nice job!

Geez, I was hoping to climb the NF and yet now someone has actually skied it. Wicked!

Anyway, I guess the lines up there this weekend are going to be hell.
_________________________
Weekday Sprayer

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#537878 - 01/26/06 03:45 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
skykilo Offline
old hand

Registered: 09/04/02
Posts: 1167
TRs: 24 Photos: 8
Loc: Vancouver BC
Here's a picture of Eric 'skiing' just below the top.


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#537879 - 01/26/06 05:42 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
Marko Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 12/09/00
Posts: 450
TRs: 2 Photos: 57
Loc: Auburn, the other Kent.
Nice job Sky. I'm glad you didn't have any route-finding problems!

(Torrrrrmmmmmennnnnnt-FFFFForrrrrrrbbbbbiddddddennnnnnn...)

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#537880 - 01/26/06 09:34 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
apound Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/16/02
Posts: 13
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Maple Valley
Awesome!
Did you have to rap the bottom of the route as well?

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#537881 - 01/26/06 09:40 PM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
ryanl Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/31/05
Posts: 91
TRs: 17 Photos: 384
Loc: shoreline
i couldn't not reply- nice job, and cool pics!

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#537882 - 01/27/06 06:26 AM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
ashw_justin Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 11/21/03
Posts: 2554
TRs: 3 Photos: 22
Loc: Behind the Sev'
"you crazy."

How much more snow before you go back and cruise it Warren Miller style?
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#537883 - 01/27/06 09:17 AM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
skykilo Offline
old hand

Registered: 09/04/02
Posts: 1167
TRs: 24 Photos: 8
Loc: Vancouver BC
Quote:

Awesome!
Did you have to rap the bottom of the route as well?




No raps at the bottom. I did a little boof onto some disappointingly-unforgiving crust (harder than I had expected) at the lowest bulge. One last spinal readjustment over the bergschrund and our rewards were never-ending crust on moderate terrain to the car.

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#537884 - 01/27/06 09:19 AM Re: [TR] Chair Peak- North Face 1/25/2006
skykilo Offline
old hand

Registered: 09/04/02
Posts: 1167
TRs: 24 Photos: 8
Loc: Vancouver BC
Here's a picture of Eric above the bottom.


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