Sportiva MIURA review - jmho

[dmuja]

I decided to post this because of how impressed I am by these shoes even though Ive only had them for a couple days.

 

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La Sportiva Miuras

 

Overall grade = A

 

THIN EDGING = A+ (None better that I know of. Amazingly, these shoes manage a certain amount of sole stiffness to them without sacrificing the "thin hold" sensitivity. The smaller the edge the gladder you will be for having chosen these shoes - ie, this is what they excel at).

 

SMEARS = B (I think this may be their weakness - if they have any. I haven't *significantly* put them to the test on steep slabs yet though. Your toes should be slightly curled down in these to get the most out of them and that means a somewhat more challenging smear. They also have a naturally formed downward curve to them like other high performance shoes).

 

CRACKS = B- to B (Better than some, but not as good as others. Foot jams are suprizingly not that bad for a shoe that seems made more for high performance bouldering. The laces are sort of guarded and these being "lined" shoes -sort of- means there is a little bit more material between the top of your foot and the inside of the crack).

 

FIT = A-

(Jus for info, I have wide "duck" feet and need a large toe box. I sized mine pretty tight, and rightfully, with toes slightly curled - I wear 10.5+ [44-44.5 euro] street size and bought these at 9.5 [42.5 euro]- but then worried about it afterwards thinking that a lined shoe like this would prolly not stretch at all. Wrong. I noticed some stretch in just 2 outings, but not that much. Now I just hope they won't stretch too much. I never felt a shoe fit so tight and yet still be so comfortable).

 

COMFORT = A (These shoes fit my duck feet nice and snug but curiously, without the usual pain. Maybe not an "all day" shoe, but close).

 

WEAR RATE = ? (Don't know yet, but I suspect because you will really want these shoes for harder face climbing on edges and toes etc, they may wear thru the toe or rand fairly quicky - although that depends on your technique).

 

COST = Expensive, but who really gives a ratz ass? If the shoe fits... its worth it!

 

CONS = Well maybe some won't like the slightly thicker/stiffer sole on them.. after all, the "Mythos" they aint. But maybe you will end up owning both and need nothing else.

 

 

linky dinky -->

http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/971

 

No, Im not a Sportiva rep..

 

Have fun.

 

D

 

 

 

[sprocket]

Thanks for the report. I've been looking for a new pair of shoes with better edging and these have been the ones (plus the 5.10 Annazi)that seem to get the most recommendations. I loved my Mythos before they finally wore out and have heard that for quality La Sportiva seems to be better than 5.10. I'm also a fellow duck foot so am glad to hear they fit wide feet. Would enjoy hearing a follow up after you've used them some more and see if they continue to impress.

[motomagik]

I just bought a pair of the women's version - and i highly recommend them, even though I've only climbed in them once! The women's version has a couple awesome features that the mens doesn't have - a padded heel (the best feature ever, it doesn't cut into your ankle) and a padded tongue.

[Hendershot]

I have used my pair for about 9 months, by far my fav shoes ever. I wasn't used to the aggresive asym toe and thought I got a pair to small. Tried on a piar 1/2 size up and they were to generous with the fit. After awhile my tight pair broke in and they are really comfortable.

 

1.5 Euro size smaller than my street shoe. I have some Katanas 2.5 sizes smaller that I can take off in a hurry after a route. Caldwell goes 3.5 euro sizes smaller than his street shoe. Crazy