Guest Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 I'm trying to decide if I should join a party of more experienced climbers attempting the above route. Status: I've looked at the weather and its partly cloudy with 20 % chance of rain and snow lvl at 2kft. I've been reading TR's and it seems there can be lots of ice fall, avalanche danger a big schrund and a cornice to finish. I've never been on a big glacier climb but from messing around ice climbing at baker once I think I can handle the climbing in a technical sense, but not sure about the exposure. I've also never bivied in the snow or on a summit, im a little worried about my 15 degree 550 fill bag for that. I tried to solo cascadian couloir car to car and I got to about 600' from the summit and turned back because of thin snow over talus and an imminent whiteout so I know the weather can change really fast up there. Also with the fresh dusting of snow we just had I'm wondering if it will be a lot of postholing and hidden crevasses? Are there any experienced climbers out there willing to give me their $.02 on whether this is a good time to go. I think on a promised good weather day at the summer solstice (with the most light) I might not be so worried about a first glacier climb but.... am I getting in over my head in bad weather conditions? Any comments before 10pm tonight would be helpful, they leave tomorrow morning. THanks! Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 If you trust your partners, I say go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 get after it. just don't hang out too much below the seracs. we missed a big calving off of ice by 5 minutes. you will see what I am talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 No cornice currently, avy danger should be low but check it on way in. With recent snow fall expect some post holing but nothing epic. With a few partners you can rotate trail breaking duty. Climber's left side is currently easier; nothing harder than WI3. 15 degree bag is plenty. Have fun and keep your eye out for a Petzl Quark Ergo please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen_Ramsey Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 (edited) Ben, [edit: Hmmm, I'm basically repeating what others have said] Serac calving is the biggest concern on that route. Others have been up there recently, so I would guess there is already a breach in the cornice. Most folks try to move fast on the lower 1/3 of the route. This route is nice because if you top out the ICG Couloir in bad weather, you can just turn left and head down to the Sherpa-Stuart col. Have fun. Cheers, Steve Edited March 24, 2005 by Stephen_Ramsey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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