matt_m Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 Climb: Mt Garfield-Infinite Bliss Date of Climb: 7/16/2006 Trip Report: Quickie Report - No pics because I forgot the camera (doh!). Spousal and partner constraints narrowed the field to a small drive day (squamish will have to wait yet AGAIN). I wanted to put in a long day with lots of pitches so IB seemed a good option. Plus last time I did it I was in FOG the whole day and NEVER saw more than about 50ft in any direction. After one mis-step in parking at the wrong turnout we were hiking up the trail by 7:40am. No cars in sight had me excited since the weather was supposed to be great. Huffing up to the start we were on the rock at 8:30. We simul-climbed to the top of P5, re-geared, swapped leads and continued to the top of P8. Belayed 9 and 10 before stopping on the good ledge below the first crux pitch - #11. Sunblocked and watered up, my partner lead 11 and 12 together in one long pitch. 11 goes at 10b and has a short crux with classic granite face climbing. I then linked 13,14 and 15 together (after in-advertently missing the P14 belay). Re-gear, swap leads and simul to the top of P18. More water and mint-cookie Balance bars before I head out on the crux P19. A long, classic face climb on AWESOME granite - not to be missed. I will say I think it may harder than 10b. 10c? (I said 10b in another post last week). with the hardest part near the end of the pitch. climb the short P20 to the wacky P21. Totally different climbing (stemming fest!) as rock rock composition changes. I lead P22 on a cool blocky corner to the last belay below 23. Great belay - I imagine it's like the hanging belay at the top of the nose... The whole route drops below you for 3,000ft. The last pitch make you think you've suddenly ended up in Leavenworth as the granite changes yet again. Good face climbing (not a gimme at low .10) leads us to the summit around 3pm. 6.5 hrs... not bad. We drain the water and the last of our food and begin the raps around 3:15. Hmmm, featured slabby granite SUCKS to rap. We played rope wranglers the whole way down to the top of P5 where the rock, mercifully, gets smooth again. NOTE: The scramble from the below the cedar bush on P16 to the top of P15 is full on DFU territory. Low fifth class, 5.0 down climbing IMO. Watch your self. Reach the base of the smooth slabs around 6:45 (3 1/2hrs of rapping YAY!). SO a good 10hr day... How does IB rate in my book? It's a good route. Not great but it does have some quality pitches along with some not-so-good ones. Difficulty? Probably around 10c technically speaking but it's got a lot of "mountain" factors that make it harder. Route finding, down climbing, length and decent. Controversial Opinion: Looking at the "how worked do I feel at the car?" rating I'd say it's on par with Epinephrine in RR, may be even harder... I almost did Frogland after Epi but didn't want to hike down again... Good day - my strangely suntanned arms approved. Gear Notes: Double 60m 9mm, 30 draws (15 reg, 15 extendo), aliens blue to red (I never believe a long route is "just draws" eg-Stairway to Heaven), 2l water (bring 3) helmet, etc Approach Notes: trail is steep and in good condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.