natazoo Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 I'm planning on heading up the icefall tomorrow. I checked the reports but haven't seen much activity. Is there good reason for this? Any beta on recent conditions or words of wisdom would be great. Thanks! Planning on bringing: 2 tools each, 7 screws, 2 picketts, 1 partner, twin ropes... *Is screwing around on the Elliot a better option for this time of year??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Going up the Coe Icefall will be more like a climb with some significant route-finding, so if you like to figure out those kinds of puzzles, the Coe will provide this. The Eliot is more just a bunch of cragging without the serious feeling of being deep in the Coe Icefall trying to find your way out as stuff is crashing and creaking around you. Â However, on the Eliot you will have more time actually climbing steep ice pitches, and you can air it out a bit doing laps on toprope with bombproof anchors. Personally I find it a little boring compared to actually climbing through something like the Coe, but it will give you more concentrated ice climbing. Â Edit: just realized you are from Hood River and may already know all this and just want a conditions report My guess is the Coe is still doable, but the upper crevasses might be a long rap in and climb out the other side now. I bet it could be a lot of fun, but complex terrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natazoo Posted August 17, 2004 Author Share Posted August 17, 2004 Thanks, that's a big help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrisZyp Posted August 23, 2004 Share Posted August 23, 2004 I am curious if it is possible to do any (decent) rock-climbing on pulpit rock. From a distance the rock on pulpit rock looks different, more structured, than most of the other rock on hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriznitch Posted August 23, 2004 Share Posted August 23, 2004 we checked out the CGI on Saturday. Went up about 1/3 of the way after a late start and wimping out with the weather blowing in--some gusts up to 30mph or so. We stopped at a large crevasse that seems to span most of the glacier, so be prepared for a rappel into it and vertical climb out--30' feet or so. Enough to feel committing! It was interesting backing down this but went pretty smooth. Made one rap off a super-bollard. As far as rock climbing goes, hmmm...There seems to be some nice solid rock in spots that could be fun, but might not be worth the trip out there for it. I knocked down a biggie--500 lbs--climbing back up the loose gully on the morraine. Seemed bomber but gave way when I stood on it--at least I got above it. Here's a couple pics: Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 23, 2004 Share Posted August 23, 2004 We saw you coming down from the climb (we were on the upper Eliot). Dude, you can walk down the west moraine to Cloud Cap! No need to charge across the Eliot and set a new line up the stacked cinders high up on the east moraine! Anyway, good you gave it a go. Weather turned poor as we were leaving later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally Posted August 23, 2004 Share Posted August 23, 2004 Iain, What kind of shape is the Eliot in? Planning on a trip next weekend. Haven't been able to get any beta recently. thanks for what ever ya got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 23, 2004 Share Posted August 23, 2004 The Eliot is in full swing with some excellent options for top-ropes. We found some good stuff in the upper icefall after hunting around a bit. Nice, long, gently overhanging pitches. Have a good time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriznitch Posted August 23, 2004 Share Posted August 23, 2004 Iain--good to know. However, we were going to meet some cheerleaders over at Cooper Spur, but thanks for the info. Here's an Elliot photo: Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaper_Jeffy Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 No photos of Snowdome. *sniffles* Â BTW, if you guys have dynafit compatible boots you're welcome to take a run on my skis that I stashed at the base ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriznitch Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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