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#1154956 - 06/01/17 10:24 AM Castle Rock New Route
telemarker Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 1668
TRs: 71 Photos: 1091
Loc: Wenatchee, WA U.S.A
A new bolted route has gone up between Midway pitch one chimney and Winter Solstice pitch one. I'm not being judgmental here, as I have not climbed it yet. It may be a fantastic pitch of climbing. I don't know. But it does seem to be in an odd location, so close to Winter Solstice, you can use the first few bolts of this new route if you climb WS. I'm just a little ambivalent about this new addition, and it does look out of place with the rest of the upper Castle routes.

I'm curious who did this one.


Edited by telemarker (06/01/17 10:27 AM)
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"God gave you two eyes, two ears and one mouth. Use each in proportion."

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#1154959 - 06/01/17 11:00 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
dynobelay Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/12/15
Posts: 4
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
The new route went up a huge moss patch (which was cleaned). Winter Solstice is further right, but it joins it for the last few feet.
I top-roped it. Seemed about 5.9


Edited by dynobelay (06/10/17 12:01 PM)

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#1154960 - 06/01/17 11:02 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
montypiton Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/04/06
Posts: 770
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
Loc: central Washington
John-
Mike Steele and I installed this route. We had initially hoped it would go without bolts, and for the creative leader with the right rack, it could. We installed the bolts to encourage more traffic to try it. Have you climbed the finger/hand crack from the top of the bolts to the anchor? It eats gear, goes in the 5.9+ range - we haven't settled on a rating, since when we installed the bolts, only Mike, Ben Stanton, and I had climbed it, and we hoped for a broader consensus than just the three of us. As for odd, I've always thought it odd that no-one had removed that carpet of moss when there was a crack system clearly visible underneath it. Working name for the project is Equinox - halfway from Midway to Solstice.

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#1154961 - 06/01/17 11:07 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
telemarker Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 1668
TRs: 71 Photos: 1091
Loc: Wenatchee, WA U.S.A
Ah! Thanks for the info. I'll have to take a lap on it.
_________________________
"God gave you two eyes, two ears and one mouth. Use each in proportion."

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#1155004 - 06/03/17 08:12 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
montypiton Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/04/06
Posts: 770
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
Loc: central Washington
please do - I'd love to have feedback

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#1155092 - 06/07/17 12:25 PM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
Michael Telstad Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/02/16
Posts: 10
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
I think I accidentally climbed this last weekend in an attempt to climb Winter solstice. I awkwardly traversed in left from the ledge on winter solstice proper, and climbed the first crack I got to. It had good (dirty) finger locks down low, then opened up to hands, then back down to rattly fingers. If this is your route it was fun, and with a little more traffic it would be a good 5.9ish alternative to both winter solstice and Midway.

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#1155116 - 06/08/17 05:55 PM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
montypiton Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/04/06
Posts: 770
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
Loc: central Washington
that does sound like the finish crack of "Equinox". yeah, its still a bit dirty -- we got it as clean as we could, and figured traffic would do the rest. hope you liked it.
-Haireball

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#1155143 - 06/12/17 11:01 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
viktor Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/07/01
Posts: 96
TRs: 0 Photos: 2
Loc: leavenworth, WA, USA
as clean as you could?
if you're not willing to finish the job, why start?

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#1155146 - 06/12/17 11:52 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: viktor]
num1mc Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/06/01
Posts: 697
TRs: 0 Photos: 45
Originally Posted By: viktor
as clean as you could?
if you're not willing to finish the job, why start?


Is there a special metric of cleanliness that all must abide?

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#1155147 - 06/12/17 12:28 PM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
viktor Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/07/01
Posts: 96
TRs: 0 Photos: 2
Loc: leavenworth, WA, USA
of course not, just my personal opinion
I'm just partial to climbing on clean rock
I think it's weak sauce to expect "traffic to do the rest"
and while we're on the topic, does this make sense?:
"We installed the bolts to encourage more traffic to try it"

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#1155153 - 06/12/17 08:39 PM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
montypiton Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/04/06
Posts: 770
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
Loc: central Washington
victor - if you've climbed it, I'll take your comments as meaningful feedback. if you haven't, well...
-Haireball

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#1155154 - 06/12/17 09:44 PM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: montypiton]
num1mc Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/06/01
Posts: 697
TRs: 0 Photos: 45
Originally Posted By: montypiton
victor - if you've climbed it, I'll take your comments as meaningful feedback. if you haven't, well...you're weak sauce.


Fixed it


Edited by num1mc (06/12/17 09:44 PM)

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#1155160 - 06/13/17 09:05 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
Kyle_Flick Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/23/00
Posts: 327
TRs: 19 Photos: 17
Loc: Cashmere,Washington,USA
It's a good, challenging, fairly clean pitch that in my estimation goes at 5.9+ for a short crux.

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#1155396 - 06/27/17 10:32 PM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: montypiton]
pope Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 02/24/01
Posts: 2880
TRs: 1 Photos: 54
Loc: iso
"We had initially hoped it would go without bolts, and for the creative leader with the right rack, it could. We installed the bolts to encourage more traffic to try it."

The last traditional crag in Leavenworth now features a bolted route which, in the opinion of the route's author, could be climbed without bolts. Apparently, creativity and the "right rack" are required. But because routes on Castle need more traffic.....

Jeesh. Don't forget to vote green.
_________________________
Wisdom is the domain of the Wiz, which is extinct. -FZ

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#1155525 - 07/09/17 02:15 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
montypiton Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/04/06
Posts: 770
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
Loc: central Washington
Canary - an ultra-classic on this "last traditional crag", has always, as far as i know, been a bolted route. even though it too can be protected without the bolts (yes, I have), I heard no complaints when it was retrobolted a few years back... context!?

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#1155548 - 07/10/17 11:26 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
telemarker Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 1668
TRs: 71 Photos: 1091
Loc: Wenatchee, WA U.S.A
The new route is verye reminiscent of the lower castle mixed gear/bolted routes like PG Advised and Smut. In fact, it's about as hard as Smut and about the same length.
_________________________
"God gave you two eyes, two ears and one mouth. Use each in proportion."

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#1155550 - 07/10/17 11:35 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: montypiton]
telemarker Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 1668
TRs: 71 Photos: 1091
Loc: Wenatchee, WA U.S.A
Originally Posted By: montypiton
Canary - an ultra-classic on this "last traditional crag", has always, as far as i know, been a bolted route. even though it too can be protected without the bolts (yes, I have), I heard no complaints when it was retrobolted a few years back... context!?


It's interesting how some of the routes on upper Castle get upgraded bolts and others don't. Like P2 of Canary, or the bolt on Old Grey Mare, or the bolt just over the roof on Satanic Verses. But on the south face of jello tower still has an ancient bolt.

I'm also curious about the two different bolts on the start of Rainbow Connection. The right one is only about 3 years old. The right bolt start is fun climbing if somewhat easier than the left start.
_________________________
"God gave you two eyes, two ears and one mouth. Use each in proportion."

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#1155564 - 07/10/17 08:48 PM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: montypiton]
pope Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 02/24/01
Posts: 2880
TRs: 1 Photos: 54
Loc: iso
Maybe I'm unclear on Canary's history. Yes, pitch 2 protects with one or more bolts which were drilled on the ascent. Drilling on the lead makes it a climb, any other kind of drilling makes for something not in the tradition of most climbs established at Castle Rock. That some old gear gets replaced doesn't bother me. And I don't see the relevance of mentioning Canary can be climbed w/o bolts. I'm sure somebody has down-climbed it without a rope. The point is, the first party to climb it, back when it was a pretty futuristic, bold route, placed a couple of bolts while in ascent mode. How can we be satisfied with a lower standard of adventure today than what was expected 40 or 50 years ago?
_________________________
Wisdom is the domain of the Wiz, which is extinct. -FZ

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#1155600 - 07/12/17 01:56 PM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: telemarker]
G-spotter Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/20/01
Posts: 15188
TRs: 57 Photos: 410
Loc: free range
And when is Dwayner gonna climb 5.13? a decade plus ago he said he could climb any 5.13 with enough time to practice. Is a decade plus enough time or do we have to wait until he's mummified?
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#1155606 - 07/12/17 07:03 PM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: G-spotter]
DPS Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 4064
TRs: 19 Photos: 64
Originally Posted By: G-spotter
And when is Dwayner gonna climb 5.13? a decade plus ago he said he could climb any 5.13 with enough time to practice. Is a decade plus enough time or do we have to wait until he's mummified?


I watched Dwayner down solo a thin, slippery 5.10 in flip flops so 5.13 would not surprise me.
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Dispensing piss poor advice for since October, 2000.

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#1155609 - 07/12/17 09:51 PM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: G-spotter]
pope Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 02/24/01
Posts: 2880
TRs: 1 Photos: 54
Loc: iso
Originally Posted By: G-spotter
And when is Dwayner gonna climb 5.13? a decade plus ago he said he could climb any 5.13 with enough time to practice. Is a decade plus enough time or do we have to wait until he's mummified?


And when are you finally going to say something interesting? Boring people like you helped this website fade into oblivion. Sport climbers like you helped me decide climbing has evolved into something equivalent to table tennis. Go ahead, bolt the shite out of Castle Rock and have a blast wrecking it some more. Don't forget to vote green.
_________________________
Wisdom is the domain of the Wiz, which is extinct. -FZ

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#1155624 - 07/13/17 10:05 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: pope]
G-spotter Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/20/01
Posts: 15188
TRs: 57 Photos: 410
Loc: free range
Originally Posted By: pope
Originally Posted By: G-spotter
And when is Dwayner gonna climb 5.13? a decade plus ago he said he could climb any 5.13 with enough time to practice. Is a decade plus enough time or do we have to wait until he's mummified?


And when are you finally going to say something interesting? Boring people like you helped this website fade into oblivion. Sport climbers like you helped me decide climbing has evolved into something equivalent to table tennis. Go ahead, bolt the shite out of Castle Rock and have a blast wrecking it some more. Don't forget to vote green.


KEEPIN' IT REAL BRO!
_________________________
Bagging a cougar is one of the most enjoyable sporting feats a young man can accomplish

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#1155711 - 07/18/17 08:42 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: G-spotter]
JasonG Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2702
TRs: 103 Photos: 1645
Loc: Mount Vernon
Now THAT is pretty interesting. So many questions.
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#1155760 - 07/19/17 08:11 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: pope]
olyclimber Offline
☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 25249
TRs: 47 Photos: 893
Loc: In Love with You
Originally Posted By: pope
Originally Posted By: G-spotter
And when is Dwayner gonna climb 5.13? a decade plus ago he said he could climb any 5.13 with enough time to practice. Is a decade plus enough time or do we have to wait until he's mummified?


And when are you finally going to say something interesting? Boring people like you helped this website fade into oblivion. Sport climbers like you helped me decide climbing has evolved into something equivalent to table tennis. Go ahead, bolt the shite out of Castle Rock and have a blast wrecking it some more. Don't forget to vote green.


Fade into oblivion??? We are still here you whiney git. And we are still waiting for you to say something interesting, I'm pretty sure you once did, but now you're just a one trick pony.

FYI table tennis is pretty damn fun.

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#1155765 - 07/19/17 10:21 AM Re: Castle Rock New Route [Re: olyclimber]
JasonG Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2702
TRs: 103 Photos: 1645
Loc: Mount Vernon
Pope came up with a great idea! Merging table tennis with climbing. FTTA, First Table Tennis Ascent. Just think of the logistics (and bolts) needed to play on top of Everest!

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