Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support

Supporting Sponsors
Pro Mountain Sports
UL Extreme Down. 5.7 oz

Who's Online
1 registered (1 invisible), 57 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
27516 Members
50 Forums
101097 Topics
1148775 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 118
KaskadskyjKozak 112
JasonG 107
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
wayne 78
AlpineK 73
telemarker 71
G-spotter 57
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#1153568 - 02/12/17 11:19 PM [TR] Snoqualmie Pass - Guye Peak lower southwest flank - Ice Flows 2/11/2017
manninjo Offline

Registered: 08/20/10
Posts: 64
TRs: 2 Photos: 49
Loc: seattle
Trip: Snoqualmie Pass - Guye Peak lower southwest flank - Ice Flows

Date: 2/11/2017

Trip Report:
A couple weekends back I noticed some wild looking ice on the lower cliff bands on Guye Peak's SW aspect. It is just visible on the right as you are driving up to Alpental. Saturday came around and we went to have a look (aka gawk at the gnarly stuff and find some more moderate lines to lead). The ice had held up reasonably well after the rain this week, and the approach slopes were stable, with a few inches of windblown on top of the recent rain's ice crust. The ice crust was partially boot supportive, with the inevitable lurking random post-hole.

These icicles had been a bit fatter earlier in the month - gully on left of icicles looks like it goes too? I'm curious to know if they ever completely connect.

We climbed a nice, somewhat crusty and relatively steep 15m flow below this photo - the left of two parallel columns hidden in the trees (no photos). Belayed in trees 30m above the base.

Above, a brief snowfield led to a curtain with a belay cave on the right. From the cave, this nearly 60m meter pitch climbed the curtain, steep snow, and more lower angle ice to a prominent tree right of a protruding dead snag.

This aspect could be tricky with conditions (and may not even form very often) and we were fortunate to have cloud cover and snow flurries most of the day. There appears to be a number of lines in shape right now, from steep snow to moderate ice to some pretty extreme looking stuff. And its hard to beat leaving and returning home in the daylight in winter while having time to get a beer in North Bend on the way back.

Gear Notes:
Two 60m ropes, ice screws, smaller rock gear, slings.

Approach Notes:
From the primary Alpental parking lot, head across the road to the summer trail and turn east, walking past the beacon search practice area; about 1/2 mile. The lines are located at approximately 3400 ft. 20-50 minutes depending on conditions.

Help Support CascadeClimbers

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#1153571 - 02/13/17 09:21 AM Re: [TR] Snoqualmie Pass - Guye Peak lower southwest flank - Ice Flows 2/11/2017 [Re: manninjo]
Woodcutter Offline

Registered: 10/08/10
Posts: 207
TRs: 3 Photos: 79
Good day out.
Hopefully conditions persist and/ or repeat since there is potential there for cascades-style (scary & variable ice) alpine cragging. Really, a couple of routes up the headwall to the summit seem do-able & would be groovy. Just gotta stay out of the neighborhood & approach via the beacon park. Jake

#1153591 - 02/14/17 06:24 PM Re: [TR] Snoqualmie Pass - Guye Peak lower southwest flank - Ice Flows 2/11/2017 [Re: manninjo]
kukuzka1 Offline
addicted to

Registered: 01/25/10
Posts: 507
TRs: 5 Photos: 119
Loc: county jail
played around on this in the 90s, fun stuff
train hard climb harder


Moderator:  mattp, minx, To_The_Top 
© 2000-10 · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top