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#1152729 - 12/05/16 05:31 PM 2016/17 Ice Conditions
hansoloalaska Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/01/14
Posts: 8
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Just throwing this out there, I dont see another thread with conditions. But temps are trending down does anybody have beta?

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#1152732 - 12/05/16 09:43 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
OlympicMtnBoy Offline
Marilyn Monroe

Registered: 09/23/03
Posts: 1286
TRs: 39 Photos: 79
Loc: Kirkland (Seattle)
No beta, lots o new snow, but I like the idea of this thread! Go ice!

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#1152733 - 12/06/16 07:45 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
DPS Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 4004
TRs: 19 Photos: 63
Based on what I have seen in November and so far in December, I would bet that if these cold, dry conditions persist that winter climbing in the Cascade River Valley will be very good by the third week of December.
_________________________
Dispensing piss poor advice for since October, 2000.

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#1152740 - 12/06/16 09:22 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
christophbenells Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/23/12
Posts: 287
TRs: 7 Photos: 1
Loc: Portland, Oregon
https://flic.kr/p/PXtoQ4

a couple of climbs are in on the eliot glacier moraine on mt. hood.

4+ hours and ~5,000' ski from car...

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#1152741 - 12/07/16 09:04 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
jakedouglas Offline
member

Registered: 10/24/12
Posts: 127
TRs: 5 Photos: 56
Loc: North Bend, WA
I took a look at Practice Gully this morning. It was not in.

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#1152742 - 12/07/16 09:56 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
christophbenells Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/23/12
Posts: 287
TRs: 7 Photos: 1
Loc: Portland, Oregon
how about Banks Lake?

anyone out there seeing anything?

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#1152749 - 12/07/16 03:44 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3585
TRs: 76 Photos: 648
Loc: Seattle!
It takes a little while for stuff to build in Washington, hang in there! See you out there soon enough.
Canada is going off however. Just got back from a quicky trip! https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2016/12/08/canada-ice-12-16/

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#1152753 - 12/07/16 06:36 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
montypiton Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/04/06
Posts: 755
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
Loc: central Washington
plenty of groundwater this year, which bodes well if it gets cold.
Leavenworth has not yet seen temps in the 'teens, and valley ice usually doesn't come in well until we see single-digits. if you have time to make the approach, the Stuart range often has good mixed-climbing this time of year... be aware the road closed in November.
-Haireball

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#1152761 - 12/08/16 07:02 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
DPS Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 4004
TRs: 19 Photos: 63
FYI, cold artic wind out of the north this morning = cold stable weather... Stay tuned, late December in the mountains could be very good if this continues.
_________________________
Dispensing piss poor advice for since October, 2000.

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#1152773 - 12/09/16 09:46 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
AnthonyLubetski Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/24/16
Posts: 14
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Wenatchee, wa
I walked up snow creek trail yesterday to take a gander. Things in the icicle seem to be shaping up nicely.

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#1152788 - 12/11/16 11:16 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
manninjo Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/20/10
Posts: 56
TRs: 1 Photos: 22
Loc: seattle
Climbed Alpental Falls yesterday. Pretty deep wallowing even with snowshoes to get to the base. Track may be filled in now with 9 inches of new snow overnight. Practice gully looked to be completely buried.

The flow is shaping up nicely, although the lower angle lower half was pretty thin and wet, with some snow over rock in places. We climbed the far right side and traversed left under rock, which helped avoid the hanging snow above the climb that could threaten the middle and left side of the flow. The upper steep portion was slushy and we rappelled from a station a few feet below the top on the right side.

Based on the amount of ice on road the cuts at Snoqualmie Pass, there should be a lot of stuff coming in soon or already in.

My phone camera is pretty blurry but this shows snow depth, and the big blob of ice at the top of the falls.


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#1152791 - 12/12/16 09:27 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Alex Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/18/00
Posts: 4673
TRs: 23 Photos: 116
Loc: Seattle, WA, USA
re: Alpental Falls. With this much new snow one has to be really careful if one ventures up the Snow Lakes trail and in the Alpental Falls vicinity, any further left than Alpental Falls proper, as Phantom slide and the terrain above is a real av hazard. In my experience Alpental Falls itself is not threatened. Practice Gully will be out now, it's only good before the first real snows. With the coming cold, the Alpental Falls itself and maybe Chockstone should bulk out and freeze much better.

I have not been up the valley to look at Flow Reversal or any of the other stuff by Source Lake yet this year. With this much snow, av conditions dictate the choices more than anything else.

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#1152794 - 12/12/16 11:21 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Kyle N Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/30/12
Posts: 14
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Anyone in central WA want to bring gear and check out some places? I found some document online and claimed there was some accessible stuff in Moses Coulee that I wanted to scope out. I have Friday and Saturday open.

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#1152798 - 12/12/16 12:51 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
DPS Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 4004
TRs: 19 Photos: 63
Thanks for the warning Alex. I think the ease of access and proximity to Seattle lull some visitors to the Alpental Valley into a false sense of security, but make no mistake, it is very threatened by avalanches.
_________________________
Dispensing piss poor advice for since October, 2000.

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#1152802 - 12/12/16 11:57 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
manninjo Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/20/10
Posts: 56
TRs: 1 Photos: 22
Loc: seattle
In re Alpental ice climbs and avalanche hazard - definitely worth repeating that many lines are subject to persistent avalanche hazard. We were glad to carry avy gear on Saturday. I wasn't keen on hanging out under phantom slide, thankfully alpental falls is climbers right of the main slide path. In certain snow conditions it wouldn't be safe at all.

What is the consensus on avalanche concern for chockstone falls and kiddie cliff? Both have approach slopes that are just big enough to slide, perhaps kiddie cliff approach more so. Looking at satellite its hard to determine the overhead hazard for those climbs. Certainly source lake line, flow reversal, bryant buttress etc all have significant approach and overhead hazard.




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#1152803 - 12/13/16 07:40 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: manninjo]
DPS Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 4004
TRs: 19 Photos: 63
Originally Posted By: manninjo

What is the consensus on avalanche concern for chockstone falls and kiddie cliff?

Two former frequent CascadeClimbers contributors were buried while standing beneath Kiddie Cliffs. They both lived, but lost a lot of their gear as I recall.

I think the approach to Chockstone Falls would be similarly threatened, if not the climb itself.
_________________________
Dispensing piss poor advice for since October, 2000.

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#1152826 - 12/15/16 09:07 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
DanO Offline
member

Registered: 10/03/02
Posts: 195
TRs: 5 Photos: 4
Did Whitepine creek Yesterday "Washington ice guide book" Page 86, In enough but soft and plenty of bare rock under snow, plenty of bashing out soft ice to bare rock with tools as well, doable but thin in places. We started at the right of the falls wondered up and right to a big tree about mid way. Then went up and left, and farther left before the absolute top of climb and repelled off a tree. Our Green sling is still on the tree we repelled off of.

I imagine conditions will be better in a week or so.

I suggest crossing the railroad bridge and walking in a good ways up the tracks to see the climbing spot/falls then angle in to the ice falls--if you have never been there before. Doing this method you will run into water in a low area. Unless you go around this low area to the road that runs across the face of the area before the falls. If you go straight into the cliff area without spotting the ice falls the falls are very hard to find, lot more work to boot and time wasted.

Did not use snowshoes, snowshoes seem to hurt as much as they help but make your own decision, it may be deeper snow as well into the future. Snow up to crotch in places, mostly below the knees and lesser though.

Great fun!!! Grade is about 3 to 3+ if you pick the easiest way to go Grade 4 and maybe more the harder ways.


Edited by DanO (12/15/16 09:10 AM)

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#1152829 - 12/15/16 01:06 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
thatcher Offline
member

Registered: 06/21/05
Posts: 155
TRs: 2 Photos: 11
Loc: Seatac, WA
Franklin Falls was in yesterday. Should stay in shape, and/or get better over the weekend with the cold temps.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BOBdyUBjPlz/?taken-by=hipster_thatcher
_________________________
-Thatcher

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#1152835 - 12/15/16 04:13 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: Kyle N]
carazco Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/06/06
Posts: 8
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Wenatchee, WA
I am open Sat. feel free to email me and we can coordinate?
Ryanncarrasco@gmail.com

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#1152836 - 12/15/16 09:02 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
OlympicMtnBoy Offline
Marilyn Monroe

Registered: 09/23/03
Posts: 1286
TRs: 39 Photos: 79
Loc: Kirkland (Seattle)
I'm also looking for a partner for Saturday! Who wants to find some ice?

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#1152841 - 12/16/16 09:09 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
jpark42 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/03/03
Posts: 239
TRs: 10 Photos: 81
Loc: Seattle, WA
I'm game Sat. jpark1199@gmail.com

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#1152843 - 12/16/16 12:16 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
scottpotpie Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/18/11
Posts: 6
TRs: 0 Photos: 3
Loc: Seattle
Any thoughts on Hubba Hubba? I'm thinking about having a look tomorrow.

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#1152844 - 12/16/16 02:30 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
manninjo Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/20/10
Posts: 56
TRs: 1 Photos: 22
Loc: seattle
Climbed at Kiddie Cliff on Wednesday night. Thankfully didn't get car towed from Lot 4 at Alpental.

There is a really nice track all the way into the falls for skis or snowshoes, and a newly excavated trail to a tree anchor at the top (there are a few different ones). Snow was stable on approach and around falls. Use two 60m ropes to rappel or TR.

No photos but with the full moon it was pretty nice. The upper tier has a good 30 ft steep section with relatively thick ice of varying degrees of plasticity. The bottom tier is mostly buried.

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#1152847 - 12/16/16 06:14 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
OffTheSteppe Offline
n00b

Registered: 02/27/10
Posts: 36
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Salem, OR
Anybody seen anything doable in W. oregon other than in the Gorge? Don't want to deal with the metro area. Anything in along the W foothills of the Oregon Cascades?
_________________________
Nature is but a reflection of God's glory.

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#1152848 - 12/16/16 07:18 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: DPS]
obwan Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/05/08
Posts: 448
TRs: 0 Photos: 14
Loc: Renton, WA
Originally Posted By: DPS
Thanks for the warning Alex. I think the ease of access and proximity to Seattle lull some visitors to the Alpental Valley into a false sense of security, but make no mistake, it is very threatened by avalanches.


Alex and Dan:
A good reminder - for any newbies, it's called "Avalanche Alley" for a reason. Especially with the early heavy snowfall conditions.
yoda
_________________________
Master of Pain

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#1152849 - 12/16/16 07:47 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
jakedouglas Offline
member

Registered: 10/24/12
Posts: 127
TRs: 5 Photos: 56
Loc: North Bend, WA
Climbed the right most flow at Alpental Falls this morning. Protection was poor on the lower part and there are still sections of thin ice and snow over rock, but it's pretty easy and up higher it's fat and solid where it steepens. Short on screws, rope, and time, I opted to belay and rap from the tree on the right hand side rather than do the final steep top out. You could also v-thread from several places on the final steep section. Hacked off as much moldy old tat as I could fit in my pockets, but there is plenty left to clean (what a mess!).




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#1152850 - 12/16/16 08:40 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
OlympicMtnBoy Offline
Marilyn Monroe

Registered: 09/23/03
Posts: 1286
TRs: 39 Photos: 79
Loc: Kirkland (Seattle)
Wandered around Deception Crags and up to Amazonia at Exit 38 this afternoon with my dog. Here are some pics. Stuff looked pretty thin but some of it is climbable. Short approaches.

https://goo.gl/photos/egGMNRfzmWB1r4tVA https://goo.gl/photos/egGMNRfzmWB1r4tVA

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#1152855 - 12/17/16 08:25 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Doug_Hutchinson Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/30/01
Posts: 228
TRs: 13 Photos: 175
Loc: DirtyFacePk/N.BeaconHill
Spent today scratching around Bryant Peak/Alpy Valley environs with Wayne. Ice conditions were surprisingly poor. Waist deep wallows accessed poorly-adhered, weak candle sticks.

Chockstone looked in, Flow Reversal had ice but probably not continuous/climbable, and Resistance is Futile is MIA.

We attempted the second ascent of Wayne and Laurel's FA from last winter - The Circumvention. Good route in scrappy shape now (but fun trying). Mixed pitches were OK but negligible ice to be found.

Great overview sunny shot of this area from yesterday in this TR, first pic shows Bryant Couloir, Flow Reversal and the Circumvention (if you can pick them out under the snow):
http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=37320.0

Seems like the cold snap flash froze the ice making machine and big weather changes are required for additional ice making, at least for climbs depending on melt/freeze in this area. I recommend looking for creek-type ice, or better yet, skiing now.


Edited by Doug_Hutchinson (12/18/16 08:04 AM)

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#1152857 - 12/18/16 06:55 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
mthorman Offline
member

Registered: 03/24/13
Posts: 186
TRs: 12 Photos: 208
Loc: Spokane, WA
If anyone gets over to the east side of WA state or ID/MT there is ice. A quick overview of what is around.

Banks Lake - some friends climbed Trotsky's Folly today...thin but climbable. This is what he said about the ice. "Everything looks thin. Cables is not touching down. Devil's Punch Bowl is fat but has 30 foot deathcicles looming. As we left, a team was starting up Trotsky's Revenge which looked mega thin."

Cooper Falls - Thing but climbable. Had some friends climb the 1st pitch last Monday and it was still wet on the left. Should be a lot better now a week later.

Laclede, ID - there is a lot of road cut ice at Laclede right now. Several flows are fat enough to lead although most of it is still too thin. Lots of stuff ranging from 30ft to 75ft tall.

Libby, MT - road cut ice just west of Libby is in and fat. I had a friend out there yesterday climbing and the pics he sent me looked good. Several good lines to lead. I have also seen several pictures of plenty of good fat flows on various road cuts between Libby, MT and Eureka.


Here are 3 pics from the road cut ice at Laclede, ID.






Edited by mthorman (12/18/16 07:14 PM)

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#1152858 - 12/18/16 09:10 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
scottpotpie Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/18/11
Posts: 6
TRs: 0 Photos: 3
Loc: Seattle
Hubba Hubba Wall is partly in. Second pitch of Hubba Hubba (Central Flow) is thin and ice is patchy under dry snow.

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#1152861 - 12/19/16 08:46 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: scottpotpie]
scottpotpie Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/18/11
Posts: 6
TRs: 0 Photos: 3
Loc: Seattle
The second pitch was thin on 12/17/16 so take some 10cm if you've got 'em.

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#1152868 - 12/19/16 08:24 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
OlympicMtnBoy Offline
Marilyn Monroe

Registered: 09/23/03
Posts: 1286
TRs: 39 Photos: 79
Loc: Kirkland (Seattle)
Skookum Falls was in on Saturday. There is an easy log crossing just downstream from the viewpoint on highway 410. We climbed three pitches and deemed the last one too thin for our early season confidence. Two double rope raps off v-threads got us down.

There were multiple lines possible as well as some other ice a gully left and right. My apologies to the father-son team, hopefully we didn't totally scoop you after passing on the approach.

https://goo.gl/photos/wudPzVXqUaCgie4F8 Here are some pics. Google took away my ability to embed photos in the forum. :-/

Also I drove by again today and things were getting wet and there were a couple holes. Hopefully there is enough ice to stick around till the next cold snap, but it is WA.

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#1152899 - 12/23/16 05:50 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: OlympicMtnBoy]
Woodcutter Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/08/10
Posts: 206
TRs: 3 Photos: 79
Chockstone falls looks FAT,
lots of snow up there so it may be slow going low down. The 1st pitch looks very, very hollow, we went around it on the left side.
Rock on. Jake

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#1152949 - 12/31/16 01:27 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
edaskren Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/15/12
Posts: 17
TRs: 3 Photos: 7
anyone know anything about Banks Lake area, Devil's Punch Bowl beginners area and if it's in or not? thanks all!

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#1152950 - 12/31/16 03:35 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: edaskren]
SethKL Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/01/11
Posts: 26
TRs: 2 Photos: 47
Loc: za, WA
Many climbs in the BL area are in, especially so by the middle of this week. Go get it!

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#1152967 - 01/03/17 01:54 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
nels0891 Offline
journeyman

Registered: 01/26/10
Posts: 93
TRs: 1 Photos: 1
Loc: Moscow, ID and Federal Way, WA
Climbed Chockstone yesterday. Indeed there is a lot of snow getting up to the main flow, and the approach pitch is quite hollow as someone speculated above.

The pitch itself is quite fat down low, but actually gets a little mushy at the top as the snow-ice interface has resulted in poorly formed, rotten ice. It definitely hadn't been climbed since any of the recent snow, as tunneling ensued to get off the climb.

I fixed some cordage on the big tree to the right side at the top of the pitch. Get it while the gettin is good.
_________________________
Chase Nelson

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#1152970 - 01/03/17 08:25 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: SethKL]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3585
TRs: 76 Photos: 648
Loc: Seattle!
Banks is going off! Did Shitting Razorblades complete last weekend and did a blog thing.
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#1153014 - 01/06/17 07:17 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: SethKL]
Kyle N Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/30/12
Posts: 14
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Originally Posted By: SethKL
Many climbs in the BL area are in, especially so by the middle of this week. Go get it!


As of today. I drove through to see what there was and here are some road photos. A few people were climbing the small fall at the base of the punchbowl and it was in. If anyone wants to go there on a weekend let me know. I just snapped photos of a bunch of flows, I havent climbed in this state at all, need to find people to go with. Anyone?!

[img]https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t...amp;oe=58E783C9[/img]
[img] https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t...amp;oe=5914F4C6[/img]
[img]https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t...amp;oe=59212811[/img]
[img]https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t...amp;oe=5913BC11[/img]
[img]https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t...amp;oe=58D66A4E[/img]
[img]https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t...amp;oe=58EB50D6[/img]
[img]https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t...amp;oe=591D78D5[/img]
[img]https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t...amp;oe=591CA778[/img]
[img]https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t...amp;oe=58D5F9B7[/img]

EDIT: well links kinda work.


Edited by Kyle N (01/06/17 07:19 PM)

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#1153021 - 01/07/17 03:10 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2565
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
I did this thing yesterday: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthre...lse#Post1153020

Too bad the warm up is coming on Monday!
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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#1153032 - 01/08/17 03:04 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: wayne]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3585
TRs: 76 Photos: 648
Loc: Seattle!

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#1153040 - 01/09/17 02:24 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Alex Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/18/00
Posts: 4673
TRs: 23 Photos: 116
Loc: Seattle, WA, USA
I was at Franklin Falls on Sat and it was super fun! Which means it's been going a month strong now! There were piles of tourists and many other parties but I kept thinking that the quantity of ice and usability was much better than Hafner or Johnson Canyon. If it was in for this long a cycle *every winter* we'd be super lucky!

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#1153064 - 01/10/17 08:12 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Wallstein Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/31/01
Posts: 480
TRs: 12 Photos: 100
Loc: Somewhere between here and the...
We went out to the Gorge again today and did some scoping. Hoping to squeeze in Crown Jewel before it turned into a river again. Unfortunately that has already happened. We continued east a bit and noticed a good looking flow that wasn't running with water. It was on the cliff just to the left of the Rat Cave. Pretty sure it is called the Slippery Dolphin in the guide book and rarely forms. We were extremely surprised to find completely dry but plastic ice. The whole feature is still really well bonded to the wall and doesn't appear to be going anywhere anytime soon. We thought it was around grade 4+ or so on the left and maybe 5 on the right but the ice was so sticky that it all felt pretty easy.

_________________________
http://mikeylikesrocks.com/

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#1153098 - 01/12/17 09:51 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
d0zer Offline
n00b

Registered: 02/02/15
Posts: 31
TRs: 1 Photos: 7
Thanks for the update Wallstein.

Anyone looking for gorge ice on Saturday? It looks like we're staying below freezing until Sunday.

I need a leading partner!

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#1153100 - 01/12/17 12:01 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
tvClimber Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/27/08
Posts: 23
TRs: 5 Photos: 0
Loc: Seattle, wa
Has any one climbed Fuggs Falls this year? Wondering what conditions look like.

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#1153109 - 01/12/17 07:53 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Kyle N Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/30/12
Posts: 14
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Anyone been to Franklin Falls lately? I am planning on going Sunday, I haven't been there and don't know how access is. I read online it is closed at the I90 ramps. From reading the WA ice book it suggests it is a 4 mile hike in from I90 (normally would drive 2 of them but the roads closed). Is it going to really be 8 mile snowshoe trip fom the on/off ramps?

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#1153119 - 01/13/17 07:38 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: Kyle N]
Sidviscous Offline
n00b

Registered: 09/06/11
Posts: 40
TRs: 9 Photos: 76
Currently the best way to access Franklin Falls is to park at the Snoqualmie Central Ski area. Walk under I90 (toward Alpental) and then look for a large pile of snow and a pull out on the west side of the road. On the other side of the snowbank is the unplowed old Highway that takes you to Franklin Falls. After two consecutive hair pin turns look for a sign on your right that marks the trail to Franklin Falls. If you have skis, it takes about 15 from the car. Even if you don't, the road is typically packed down from lots of foot traffic. We were up there on Saturday and it was a zoo- someone wrote up an article about Franklin Falls and everyone and their cousin was there taking pictures. We heard multiple stories of huge traffic jams at Denny Creek.

Multiple top rope anchors have been set up at Franklin Falls for both the left and right sides. For the right side, go back up the trail until it becomes possible to gain the cliffs to the left. The trees are really dense, so it's difficult to see the bottom but make your best guess. Make one rappel from a tree down steep snow and trees to the edge of cliff. There are at least two anchors around sizable trees there. Make a second rappel to the base (~20-25m). For the left side cross the creek (carefully) and skirt around the cliffs to the left to gain the trees above. There should be several anchors along the breadth of the cliff band. If you leave a sling, take an old one.

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#1153127 - 01/13/17 04:52 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Alex Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/18/00
Posts: 4673
TRs: 23 Photos: 116
Loc: Seattle, WA, USA
Well, a short correction to Sid Viscous: you park at Summit West, not Central. The approach from Exit 52 is a bit shorter than the approach from Exit 47 and relatively easy to navigate.

I was at Franklin today, actually, it's fatter than it was last weekend and -20'C when we roped up at 8am!

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#1153134 - 01/14/17 09:50 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Captain panther Offline
member

Registered: 01/14/10
Posts: 155
TRs: 9 Photos: 54
Loc: tacoma
Everything is fat at vantage, frenchmans os nearly fully formed. Stopped in on the way back from cody and cruised up fuggs which is in great condition
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#1153135 - 01/14/17 11:25 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Wildearth Offline
n00b

Registered: 03/30/08
Posts: 32
TRs: 0 Photos: 11
Loc: Redmond,WA
Franklin Falls is in. Lots of ice, set up a TR and put in laps. I set up a TR and rope soloed the Chandelier to the extreme right. The ice was really hard and hooking between the flutes was easier than bashing away. Have fun !

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#1153206 - 01/18/17 08:58 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
hansoloalaska Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/01/14
Posts: 8
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Anyone know how current conditions are in Leavenworth?

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#1153213 - 01/19/17 09:55 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
origin_ing Offline
n00b

Registered: 09/10/12
Posts: 26
TRs: 2 Photos: 8
Climbed Hubba Hubba Sunday 1/15. It was very fat and brittle.





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#1153222 - 01/20/17 02:17 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2565
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
just came back from Snoqualmie Pass.

Basically everything is still in: Kiddie Cliff, Bryant Buttress, Rap Fall, Chockstone Falls, etc. No word on Franklin Falls.

There is about a foot of new snow over a very stout rain crust, making travel relatively easy.
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#1153247 - 01/22/17 06:27 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
montypiton Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/04/06
Posts: 755
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
Loc: central Washington
two laps on the Drip yesterday - in WI5 condition this year, meaning you can weasel up the left hand column without having to pull an overhang. ice is chandeliered enough that it won't hold screws without major excavation. we found it challenging enough on top rope.

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#1153256 - 01/23/17 09:15 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: montypiton]
bellows Online   content
member

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 122
TRs: 24 Photos: 244
Loc: Seattle
Frankouray Falls at Snoqualmie Pass is still holding strong:


Not as fat as the previous weekend, but it certainly survived the warm wet weather from last week.

It's such a convenient area to get to from Seattle. I'd be up for a dawn patrol this week if anyone wants to get a few laps in early and be back at work by noon.

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#1153396 - 01/29/17 02:46 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
jakedouglas Offline
member

Registered: 10/24/12
Posts: 127
TRs: 5 Photos: 56
Loc: North Bend, WA
Bryant Buttress was still in pretty fat today. Thanks to whoever installed the bolted anchor at the top. Makes it much faster for a group to get in and out and not hold up the show messing with trees.

Kiddie Cliff and Chockstone also looked fat. There was definitely ice on Source Lake Line but I've never been up close so hard to tell how in it was.

Alpental Falls stuff looked like it was still there, too.

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#1153426 - 01/30/17 06:45 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Tydog Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/05/03
Posts: 28
TRs: 0 Photos: 17
Loc: Portland, Oregon
Any updates on Frenchman Coulee ice? I'm heading to Yakima this coming weekend and have never been out there ice climbing.
_________________________
Why work when there is ice to be had???

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#1153472 - 02/01/17 03:50 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: jakedouglas]
Seraphim Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/12/14
Posts: 56
TRs: 4 Photos: 45
Loc: Issaquah, WA
Originally Posted By: jakedouglas
Bryant Buttress was still in pretty fat today. Thanks to whoever installed the bolted anchor at the top. Makes it much faster for a group to get in and out and not hold up the show messing with trees.

Kiddie Cliff and Chockstone also looked fat. There was definitely ice on Source Lake Line but I've never been up close so hard to tell how in it was.

Alpental Falls stuff looked like it was still there, too.


Is it easier to access franklin falls from the ski resort area? Or is better to just on the normal road to the trailhead?

Never been there in winter.
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#1153475 - 02/01/17 08:31 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: Seraphim]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2565
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
Originally Posted By: Seraphim

Is it easier to access franklin falls from the ski resort area? Or is better to just on the normal road to the trailhead?


Park at Summit West, cross under the overpass, and ski down the closed Sunset Highway. 10 minutes easy downhill!
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#1153486 - 02/02/17 02:27 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
keenwesh Offline
veteran

Registered: 02/21/09
Posts: 1235
TRs: 21 Photos: 182
Loc: Bozeman
Sounds like maybe in on source lake line? Anyone seen Flow Reversal?

Haven't been up in that area for years, how are the slopes above the routes? Can't remember if they slide or not.

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#1153487 - 02/02/17 02:58 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: keenwesh]
JasonG Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2616
TRs: 99 Photos: 1575
Loc: Mount Vernon
Check out Tim Matsui's IG page for current Flow Reversal pic.
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#1153492 - 02/02/17 04:51 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: Tydog]
bellows Online   content
member

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 122
TRs: 24 Photos: 244
Loc: Seattle
Tydog, if you're looking for ice near Yakima the drip across from Umptanum Falls is fat right now. I took a few laps on it this morning. It's short but the approach is easy:

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#1153533 - 02/07/17 11:57 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
montypiton Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/04/06
Posts: 755
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
Loc: central Washington
Tydog-
climbed Fugs on 2/5. Fat as I've ever seen it. Only time I've ever climbed it when I was able to top out without climbing through open flowing water.
Frenchmans Falls did not look complete.
-Haireball

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#1153551 - 02/09/17 06:57 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
davidfailla Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/08/15
Posts: 14
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Anyone getting out this weekend???

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#1153574 - 02/13/17 02:53 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: davidfailla]
telemarker Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 1658
TRs: 71 Photos: 1091
Loc: Wenatchee, WA U.S.A
From two weekends ago. Emerald Falls, Banks Lake. Photo by Bill Wicheta.





Edited by telemarker (02/13/17 02:58 PM)
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#1153575 - 02/13/17 04:18 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: davidfailla]
bellows Online   content
member

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 122
TRs: 24 Photos: 244
Loc: Seattle
Devils is open for business. Death-cicles are gone as of yesterday:

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#1153605 - 02/16/17 03:23 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
DanO Offline
member

Registered: 10/03/02
Posts: 195
TRs: 5 Photos: 4
Anyone know if White Pine Creak is still in? It is between Leavenworth and Stevens pass

Thanks

Dan

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#1153953 - 02/22/17 05:02 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: DanO]
DanO Offline
member

Registered: 10/03/02
Posts: 195
TRs: 5 Photos: 4
Whitepine creek or whitepine drool, is still in, it is slowly going away due to melting. I climbed it this last Saturday. I guess it should last a few weeks longer, while melting and ice going away to rock and snow. I hit a few soft spots..

The most easy way to climb is to start over to the right take most easy path up to tree to right, sling the tree then climb up and left taking the most easy way, can repel a tree far left not at the top of the climb or climb to the top of the ice fall someplace. around 3+ the most easy way, solid 4 other ways up.

Dan


Edited by DanO (02/22/17 05:08 PM)

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#1153999 - 02/23/17 07:37 AM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
thatcher Offline
member

Registered: 06/21/05
Posts: 155
TRs: 2 Photos: 11
Loc: Seatac, WA
Anyone gotten a peep at Chair Peak this week? Planning to head up Saturday, but unsure about how in it will be seeing that the temps aren't super cold at the pass.
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-Thatcher

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#1154088 - 02/26/17 08:45 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
bellows Online   content
member

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 122
TRs: 24 Photos: 244
Loc: Seattle
Three of us made it to Strobach for the first time on Saturday. Good times. We ended up lapping FOTL pitch 1 and gawking at lots of much harder climbs.

First on the Left:


The more moderate Sudden Change of Plans and Sad Ce'bu that we had hoped to get on looked thin/out. Dropline looked fat though:


Hate Pony, Adrenalepherine, and Ponderosa Pillar looking intimidating:


Unholy Baptism gnar:


Temps are looking to remain cold for at least another week, go get some!

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#1154154 - 03/06/17 01:27 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
montypiton Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/04/06
Posts: 755
TRs: 4 Photos: 0
Loc: central Washington
yes Virginia, we still have ice in the Icicle drainage:

tried Pearly Gates on Thursday, but it was delaminating badly, snd sure enough was gone two days later.

but Millenium wall was in prime shape on Saturday, filled in to offer an abundance of lines on delightful plastic ice.

and reports indicate that Back-to-the-Future wall and Fourmile Falls (mile-and-a-half beyond Millenium/Snow-Creek-Wall) also remain in good shape. note that Fourmile Falls, like the Funnel at Hubba Hubba, is an active avalanche path...

-Haireball

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#1154155 - 03/06/17 02:43 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Alex Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/18/00
Posts: 4673
TRs: 23 Photos: 116
Loc: Seattle, WA, USA
Thanks for the report! Strobach trip looks good! About the same as it ever was. Per my experience, Sad Ce'bu and Sudden Change look to be "very typical" and I think had you got on them, you would have found them probably a little more moderate than what they looked like from below. But once you've gone in there, future trips will be smoother ..!

The LWorth stuff, I might jump on next couple days. March 6th is generally quite pushing it for climbing ice outside of the alpine zones in Washington, so this season is lasting a bit longer than usual!

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#1154158 - 03/06/17 09:00 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
keenwesh Offline
veteran

Registered: 02/21/09
Posts: 1235
TRs: 21 Photos: 182
Loc: Bozeman
I made it in to strobach this last weekend. Was blown away by how stacked it is! Everything left of the gully was getting pretty sun leached, but to the right was good to go. Those pitches are stellar, long and virgin, don't think many people get in there. This is the standard for level of in-ness? It's just not popular because you need a sled? Anyone know if/when the left hand cliff starts getting hit by the sun? mid january?

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#1154169 - 03/07/17 02:50 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Alex Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/18/00
Posts: 4673
TRs: 23 Photos: 116
Loc: Seattle, WA, USA
keen, yes.

This is the standard level of in-ness. Some years its like this by late December.
It's not that popular because there really aren't that many ice climbers in WA (certainly seems like less than there was 15 years ago) and the approach is for real.
Left of Sep Gully gets hit by sun around mid-Feb. It doesn't take much sun to bleach out the ice and bring those pitches down, since most of them are very steep and don't have a lot of support from below, like Unholy, etc. The stuff on the right side of the cliff, right of Dropline, lasts longer. The stuff over by Dome Peak, like Watchtower, usually lasts til mid-March.

Temps and daylight rapidly rise by late March early April, and while you can spring ski, outside of the Rockies you can't really spring ice climb.


Edited by Alex (03/07/17 02:51 PM)

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#1154193 - 03/08/17 08:17 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: Alex]
spionin Offline
the reverend

Registered: 03/10/08
Posts: 478
TRs: 26 Photos: 443
Loc: seattle, wa
Originally Posted By: Alex

It's not that popular because there really aren't that many ice climbers in WA (certainly seems like less than there was 15 years ago)


...and those who find time to climb make the drive to Banff wave
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#1154197 - 03/08/17 09:17 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Dre Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/13/10
Posts: 21
TRs: 0 Photos: 3
thought i was done with ice for the season, but with monties lattes report of Leavenworth, think I'll check out Millenium/Snow-Creek-Wall this Sunday, and report back.

Avy condition looks to remain high through the weekend for all of WA so avoiding avy prone climbs.

Any other suggestion where i could finding WI3+/4 in Leavenworth this weekend?

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#1154249 - 03/13/17 12:20 PM Re: 2016/17 Ice Conditions [Re: hansoloalaska]
Dre Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/13/10
Posts: 21
TRs: 0 Photos: 3
scoped out Leavenworth yesterday, most ice still looking pretty good considering Its mid March in WA.

Hubba Hubba looks good from the road, slopes above look a bit loaded, so we went to Millennium / Snow creek Wall .

Crazy ice climbing in sun in WA in March, but I'll take it.

Ice should still be good next week, possibly the following depending on temps.


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