Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support cc.com.


Supporting Sponsors





Pro Mountain Sports
Alpine Light Down Parka 14.4oz

blank
Who's Online
0 registered (), 28 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
27351 Members
50 Forums
100466 Topics
1146108 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 117
KaskadskyjKozak 107
JasonG 99
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
wayne 75
AlpineK 73
telemarker 71
G-spotter 57
Page 1 of 2 1 2 >
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#1151594 - 09/10/16 04:52 PM [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016
Matt_Alford Offline
member

Registered: 12/05/01
Posts: 104
TRs: 17 Photos: 245
Loc: Greenhood
Trip: Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951

Date: 8/26/2016

Trip Report:
Eric Murphy and I continued to peck away at the North Cascades Blue Collar tour, climbing the 1951 Rib on the NE aspect of Johannesberg over two days on August 26th and 27th.

We found the climbing both physically and mentally engaging with plenty of "don't f**K-up terrain. We belayed about 4 pitches on the route and descended using a combination of extensive down climbing and several rappels (mostly due to the rain/cloud that enveloped us on the descent.) Information from Steph Abegg's site regarding the route and descent is really valuable if you are considering this route. http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/johannesburg

It has been almost 20 years since I first gazed at JBerg across the Cascade River Valley from Boston Basin and wondered if I would ever have the gumption to attempt to climb it. Definitely a route that I am glad to have climbed, but not super anxious to repeat.



Crossing the CJ avalanche cone on the short approach. Our route took the slabs left of the waterfalls and crossed back right into the wooded rib.



Easy scrambling across the waterfalls before the 1000 feet of vertical bushwacking.


Pictures from the route are few. Ours hands stayed pretty busy gripping heather, small cedar trees and mediocre rock.


Million dollar bivy. Might just be the best part of the climb ;-)


Pretty good North Cascade Sunset


Old men.

Gear Notes:
60 meters of 8 mm rope (essential), handful of nuts and hexes, 8 shoulder slings and a couple doubles.

A couple thin pins could be really useful in the descent.

Approach Notes:
Up.


Edited by Matt_Alford (09/10/16 08:07 PM)
_________________________
Kloshe Konaway
Kloshe Nanitch

Top
Help Support CascadeClimbers

Astryl Jacket - Women's
$411.75
Save 25%


Nomic Ice Axe
$224.96
Save 25%


Mojo Repo Chalk Bag
$14.98
Save 35%


Standard Aiders
$44.96
Save 25%

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#1151595 - 09/10/16 05:34 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
Tom_Sjolseth Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/02/05
Posts: 540
TRs: 45 Photos: 1972
Loc: Wenatchee (The Kent of the Eas...
Blue collar is right. It feels like a different route every time I climb it.

Is the summit register still up there?
_________________________
Heavy and slow.

Top
#1151596 - 09/10/16 08:11 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Tom_Sjolseth]
Matt_Alford Offline
member

Registered: 12/05/01
Posts: 104
TRs: 17 Photos: 245
Loc: Greenhood
Still up there Tom...with all 4 of your ascents....nut job;-)
_________________________
Kloshe Konaway
Kloshe Nanitch

Top
#1151597 - 09/10/16 08:37 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
lunger Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 04/18/02
Posts: 400
TRs: 20 Photos: 149
Loc: see atoll
Nice, looks fun. Still need to climb this one.

Top
#1151598 - 09/10/16 08:58 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: lunger]
JasonG Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2615
TRs: 99 Photos: 1575
Loc: Mount Vernon
A piece of cake for you Eric. From the bivy upwards is pretty stellar.

The lower buttress is certainly blue collar though! For most aspirants I think you nailed it Matt- happy to have climbed it but not anxious to repeat. Nice work, any north side route is an accomplishment on one of the "fearsome foursome"!
_________________________
<><

Top
#1151601 - 09/11/16 03:59 AM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
Tom_Sjolseth Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/02/05
Posts: 540
TRs: 45 Photos: 1972
Loc: Wenatchee (The Kent of the Eas...
Lunger, I'd climb it again.
_________________________
Heavy and slow.

Top
#1151602 - 09/11/16 06:21 AM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: JasonG]
Matt_Alford Offline
member

Registered: 12/05/01
Posts: 104
TRs: 17 Photos: 245
Loc: Greenhood
Agreed, the upper glacier climb and summit block is the best climbing on the route and a really classy finish the mountain.
_________________________
Kloshe Konaway
Kloshe Nanitch

Top
#1151603 - 09/11/16 11:23 AM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
dougd Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 839
TRs: 5 Photos: 16
Loc: Spokane
First time I saw it I sure wanted to climb it. Not sure I have enough left in the tank to actually do it, but at least I can check in here once in a while and share in the joy of it in a small way.

Nice work fellas, and thanks for sharing.

d
_________________________
The older the violin, the sweeter the music...

Top
#1151604 - 09/11/16 07:13 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17357
TRs: 117 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
my favorite n cascade climb - is there any another with a 15 minute approach? smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#1151605 - 09/11/16 07:45 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
OlympicMtnBoy Offline
Marilyn Monroe

Registered: 09/23/03
Posts: 1280
TRs: 39 Photos: 79
Loc: Georgetown (Seattle)
Ahhh sounds fun, someday I'll get around to this.

Top
#1151611 - 09/12/16 09:13 AM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
dberdinka Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2189
TRs: 44 Photos: 639
Loc: Bellingham
Nice work Matt. Now does anyone ever climb one of the NE Face routes? Don't think I've ever seen a TR for it. Based on the Beckey guide it almost seemed popular BITD.
_________________________
You will do foolish things, but do them with enthusiasm!

Top
#1151617 - 09/12/16 12:32 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
tbunch Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/13/06
Posts: 37
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted By: Matt_Alford
Definitely a route that I am glad to have climbed, but not super anxious to repeat.


Sounds like the very definition of a classic climb. I believe it was the well know dirtbag climber Mark Twain who said, "A classic is something that everybody wants to have climbed and nobody wants to climb.", was it not?

Top
#1151621 - 09/12/16 03:00 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: dberdinka]
DPS Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 4003
TRs: 19 Photos: 63
Originally Posted By: dberdinka
Nice work Matt. Now does anyone ever climb one of the NE Face routes? Don't think I've ever seen a TR for it. Based on the Beckey guide it almost seemed popular BITD.


I've chatted with some notable climbers interested in doing some winter routes on it, but I've not heard of any actual ascents winter or summer lately.
_________________________
Dispensing piss poor advice for since October, 2000.

Top
#1151624 - 09/12/16 03:48 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: ivan]
dougd Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 839
TRs: 5 Photos: 16
Loc: Spokane
Originally Posted By: ivan
my favorite n cascade climb - is there any another with a 15 minute approach? smile


must not fall in love...

again...
_________________________
The older the violin, the sweeter the music...

Top
#1151629 - 09/12/16 06:35 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17357
TRs: 117 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
yet j'berg ultimately pales in comparision to the index traverse - that was a step up in the kick-in-the-bawls department - you boys done it yet? smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#1151641 - 09/12/16 09:11 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: ivan]
Matt_Alford Offline
member

Registered: 12/05/01
Posts: 104
TRs: 17 Photos: 245
Loc: Greenhood
On the list Ivan...just gotta fill my good luck bucket back up. Might take a couple years.
_________________________
Kloshe Konaway
Kloshe Nanitch

Top
#1151642 - 09/12/16 10:30 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
Juan Sharp Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/07/09
Posts: 57
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Well done. That route leaves a mark. What's the status of the Ti pin that Big Jim Nelson placed on our July 1999 ascent? Assume you went left to the rock rather than rapping at that point? The gully must be mostly if not entirely melted out now.

Also, did you happen to see Big Jim's empty can of Grape Fanta on the rib itself? It was misplaced.

Top
#1151651 - 09/13/16 07:57 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Juan Sharp]
Matt_Alford Offline
member

Registered: 12/05/01
Posts: 104
TRs: 17 Photos: 245
Loc: Greenhood
Juan-

To tell you the truth, I never even saw the the pin (or looked for it). We stayed left on the 51 rib to it's terminus with the glacier. The climbing felt mostly 3rd and 4th class with a couple short sections that could have been fifth. We encountered no snow between the avalanche cone and the upper sill glacier.

No Fanta can either mate...sorry to dissapoint.
_________________________
Kloshe Konaway
Kloshe Nanitch

Top
#1151664 - 09/14/16 12:10 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
Juan Sharp Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/07/09
Posts: 57
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Got it. We did the 1957 variation as written up in Jim and Peter's Vol. II. Keep up the good work.

Top
#1151668 - 09/14/16 01:36 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: ivan]
JasonG Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2615
TRs: 99 Photos: 1575
Loc: Mount Vernon
Originally Posted By: ivan
yet j'berg ultimately pales in comparision to the index traverse - that was a step up in the kick-in-the-bawls department - you boys done it yet? smile


Wasn't that mainly due to dehydration? I found the Index traverse to be actually pretty fun without the extensive blue collar aspects so sustained on J-berg.
_________________________
<><

Top
#1151671 - 09/14/16 03:05 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17357
TRs: 117 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
yeah, the heat was a big problem for us - plus getting lost in whiteout trying to exit back down to the lake

guess i gotta do the traverse sometime when it's not venusian...
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#1151811 - 09/23/16 06:36 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: dberdinka]
kukuzka1 Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/25/10
Posts: 502
TRs: 5 Photos: 101
Loc: county jail
I did the left most route on the NE face 1963? or 65? route and the upper section was really superb rock, climbing and position. the lower section wasn't bad either. really deserves more attention. also there is no imitating a gorilla!! as no trees


Edited by kukuzka1 (09/23/16 06:39 PM)
_________________________
train hard climb harder

Top
#1152563 - 11/19/16 07:47 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: dberdinka]
Lowell_Skoog Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/25/00
Posts: 2521
TRs: 4 Photos: 15
Loc: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted By: dberdinka
Nice work Matt. Now does anyone ever climb one of the NE Face routes? Don't think I've ever seen a TR for it. Based on the Beckey guide it almost seemed popular BITD.


My brother Gordy and I climbed the 1963 NE Face route in August 1983. Took about 12 hours round trip. No brush, but my notes record some steep brittle rock high on the face before we reached the crest of the NE Rib. That part was a bit nervous but most of the climb was not too bad.

The C-J couloir was probably in much better shape back then than it is now. We backed down the couloir in a couple hours. I think getting onto the rock during the ascent would probably also be harder now than it was then.

Top
#1152571 - 11/20/16 07:20 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Lowell_Skoog]
Jens Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/09/01
Posts: 1904
TRs: 8 Photos: 23
Loc: San Diego, CA
Gotta Love Jberg! Did seven routes on the thing.

instagram @jensklub

Top
#1152672 - 11/29/16 01:30 PM Re: [TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016 [Re: Matt_Alford]
kukuzka1 Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/25/10
Posts: 502
TRs: 5 Photos: 101
Loc: county jail
IMO this is an is real route for ascending it in winter if the conditions are right.
_________________________
train hard climb harder

Top
Page 1 of 2 1 2 >



Moderator:  chucK, mattp, Off_White, snoboy, To_The_Top 
© 2000-10 cascadeclimbers.com · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top