Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support cc.com.


Supporting Sponsors




Pro Mountain Sports
UL Extreme Down. 5.7 oz


blank
Who's Online
0 registered (), 35 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
27441 Members
50 Forums
100821 Topics
1147485 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 118
KaskadskyjKozak 110
JasonG 103
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
wayne 77
AlpineK 73
telemarker 71
G-spotter 57
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#1143286 - 09/25/15 01:09 PM [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015
dberdinka Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2195
TRs: 44 Photos: 639
Loc: Bellingham
Trip: Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route

Date: 9/25/2015

Trip Report:
After intermittent work over the last two seasons I finished up another new route on the North Face of Vesper Peak. Once again extensive cleaning revealed a sustained moderate line in an outstanding position. The highlight of the climb is a long finger crack up the middle of the headwall followed by positive face climbing to a great belay perch. Some of the climbing is only so-so but overall I was pretty happy with the end result. Belays are all bolted and protection is about 50/50 bolts and gear. Bring a rack to a #2 Camalot including small-to-large stoppers and some extra finger to off-finger cams.

Seasons starting to get a bit long in the tooth up there but it should be doable for a bit longer if you don't mind the chill and give it a day or two to dry out after rain.

Pitch Description

P1 Easy climbing on clean granite. Step left to a bolted belay below an obvious narrow chimney. 5.4 ~200'

P2 Up a groove to the squeeze chimney then a difficult move onto a short bolted slab. The chimney can be avoided by moving right into a short corner (watch for loose blocks at it's top) 5.8 100'

P3 A nice pitch. Slab, then a shallow corner, pull over a small overhang and follow jigsaw rock to a tiny belay ledge. 5.7 100'

P4 Climb the long sustained splitter with a crux step across where the crack disappears briefly. Fun juggy climbing leads to a belay at the crest of the headwall. 5.8 120'

P5 A short scruffy pitch of easy face and slab climbing leads to the top of the face. 5.6 (not 5.8 like in the image below!) 80'


Click for Larger Image




Looking down the headwall at the intermittent finger cracks




Climbers on Pitch 4 of the Ragged Edge



Gear Notes:
Bring a rack to a #2 Camalot including small-to-large stoppers and some extra finger to off-finger cams.

Approach Notes:
See Ragged Edge TR

Top
Help Support CascadeClimbers

Sabretooth Crampons
$138.76
Save 25%

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#1143287 - 09/25/15 01:34 PM Re: [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015 [Re: dberdinka]
Tyson.g Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/07/10
Posts: 1000
TRs: 7 Photos: 136
Loc: Bellingham
Darin, you are my new hero. tup
_________________________

Please note I am posting this as a joke.


Top
#1143290 - 09/25/15 01:43 PM Re: [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015 [Re: Tyson.g]
JasonG Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2700
TRs: 103 Photos: 1645
Loc: Mount Vernon
oh yeah!
_________________________
<><

Top
#1143295 - 09/25/15 02:59 PM Re: [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015 [Re: dberdinka]
Trent Offline
member

Registered: 04/24/04
Posts: 165
TRs: 14 Photos: 170
Loc: Stanwood
Cool! You certainly have been busy!
_________________________
Walking is SO underrated!

Top
#1143297 - 09/25/15 03:06 PM Re: [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015 [Re: dberdinka]
Apdavids Offline
n00b

Registered: 09/08/11
Posts: 33
TRs: 2 Photos: 15
Loc: Everett, WA
tup Sweet Line! Look forward to hopping on it.
_________________________
Lost all respect and you look like a fool.
You should call Black&Decker, I hear they sponsor tools.

Top
#1143304 - 09/25/15 03:43 PM Re: [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015 [Re: dberdinka]
Devin27 Offline
member

Registered: 06/08/11
Posts: 142
TRs: 18 Photos: 515
Loc: Bellevue, WA
This is fantastic. Loved the Ragged Edge, cant wait to try this one. Thank you
_________________________
So that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory nor defeat

Top
#1143361 - 09/27/15 12:14 PM Re: [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015 [Re: dberdinka]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2432
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
rocken

How did you get the route overlay shot? Friend w drone? Google earth? telephoto from Sperry?
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

Top
#1143394 - 09/28/15 02:22 PM Re: [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015 [Re: Rad]
JasonG Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2700
TRs: 103 Photos: 1645
Loc: Mount Vernon
My guess is the little bump on the ridge between Sperry and Vesper, but Darin will set me straight.
_________________________
<><

Top
#1143420 - 09/29/15 09:24 AM Re: [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015 [Re: dberdinka]
dberdinka Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2195
TRs: 44 Photos: 639
Loc: Bellingham
Jason of course is correct. Such nice fall weather right now. I'd be up there again working on route three if I hadn't grievously sprained my ankle last week stumbling out that god forsaken trail with a 50 lb pack. Love that area.
_________________________
You will do foolish things, but do them with enthusiasm!

Top
#1143423 - 09/29/15 10:46 AM Re: [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015 [Re: dberdinka]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17396
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
you should start charging admission smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#1149706 - 06/27/16 12:46 PM Re: [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015 [Re: dberdinka]
NDrake Offline
n00b

Registered: 01/07/14
Posts: 44
TRs: 6 Photos: 10
We did the route yesterday. Took a loose chossy gully instead of the 1st pitch due to snow. Fun day out, thanks for all the hard work establishing this!

Top
#1155675 - 07/15/17 10:53 AM Re: [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015 [Re: dberdinka]
Sidviscous Offline
n00b

Registered: 09/06/11
Posts: 44
TRs: 11 Photos: 102
We climbed this route 6/24/17. Firm snow on the approach ledges make it a little more intense... I'm pretty sure the rope would have caught on a tree on the edge though, right? I really enjoyed this route. It isn't quite as good as Ragged Edge, but the setting is so fantastic. Thanks Darin. BTW, I found the crux to be low on the 5.8 pitch in the finger crack- the step over seemed pretty easy to me.

Top



Moderator:  chucK, mattp, Off_White, snoboy, To_The_Top 
© 2000-10 cascadeclimbers.com · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top