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#1150946 - 08/12/16 11:18 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper ***** [Re: Rad]
dberdinka Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2195
TRs: 44 Photos: 639
Loc: Bellingham
Unfortunately the second rappel is basically a full 35 m. If you're comfortable rigging a Biner block you could use your slings and webbing to pull the rope. If you've never done it before just make sure to rappel on the correct side of the rope. Biner blocks create a situation that provides a really easy way to screw up and die.
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#1150961 - 08/12/16 03:40 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: dberdinka]
eggplantalpinism Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/11/16
Posts: 4
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Originally Posted By: dberdinka
Unfortunately the second rappel is basically a full 35 m. If you're comfortable rigging a Biner block you could use your slings and webbing to pull the rope. If you've never done it before just make sure to rappel on the correct side of the rope. Biner blocks create a situation that provides a really easy way to screw up and die.


We *barely* made it with my 66m, but this is correct. Biner blocks would probably work with 5m of tag line and a 60m. Would not recommend anything less than 70m without that knowledge though. Also, there are at least 8-10 bolts on route that are hand-loose. I dunno how they were attached, but we had to use our ATCs to screw them tight (they conveniently fit the lightening hole profile of the BD guide ATC perfectly). Little scary to see so many loose bolts though, they might need a different style of nut.

Also, the intermediate rap anchor next to P3 is very well hidden, keep looking on the big dirt ledge 4ish bolts up P3. Fun route!

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#1151652 - 09/13/16 09:28 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2432
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
A week ago nuts on all bolts were checked and tightened as needed. I hope to get up there before the fall rains fly and will check then as well.
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#1155472 - 07/05/17 08:48 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
MrGecko Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/20/10
Posts: 319
TRs: 3 Photos: 187
Loc: Seattle
Rad - all bolts seemed to be in good shape less that eye sore which is hanging loose and well beaten but not removed on the start of pitch 3. Have you considered a separate rap line down the buttress?

RAPPEL ADVICE
If you end up bringing two ropes then you will only need them for rapping pitch 6 and pitch 1. Backpack the second rope for all other rappels and save yourself the trouble of getting the knot stuck.

Ideally use a 70m rope.

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#1155591 - 07/11/17 11:35 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2432
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
Yes, a single 70 meter rope is ideal.

Thx for the update. Sadly, I'm recovering from an injury, so I won't make it out there.
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

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#1155611 - 07/12/17 10:09 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
dberdinka Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2195
TRs: 44 Photos: 639
Loc: Bellingham
Where are people getting jammed up on the rappel? I think adding a rap anchor (on route) 5-10m above the dihedral belay could allow rapping the route with a 60m rope and probably avoid the one really awkward station to avoid another group. (I think it's possible P1 could be rapped with a 60m but haven't tried it so watch those ends if you do!)

A seperate rap route would entail an equally massive amount of cleaning if not more since the arete seemed like the most solid rock on the peak. Not that I have the time or interest in doing so, but if the routes gotten popular would need to shut down traffic for awhile.
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