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#1150946 - 08/12/16 11:18 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper ***** [Re: Rad]
dberdinka Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2200
TRs: 44 Photos: 639
Loc: Bellingham
Unfortunately the second rappel is basically a full 35 m. If you're comfortable rigging a Biner block you could use your slings and webbing to pull the rope. If you've never done it before just make sure to rappel on the correct side of the rope. Biner blocks create a situation that provides a really easy way to screw up and die.
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You will do foolish things, but do them with enthusiasm!

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#1150961 - 08/12/16 03:40 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: dberdinka]
eggplantalpinism Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/11/16
Posts: 4
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Originally Posted By: dberdinka
Unfortunately the second rappel is basically a full 35 m. If you're comfortable rigging a Biner block you could use your slings and webbing to pull the rope. If you've never done it before just make sure to rappel on the correct side of the rope. Biner blocks create a situation that provides a really easy way to screw up and die.


We *barely* made it with my 66m, but this is correct. Biner blocks would probably work with 5m of tag line and a 60m. Would not recommend anything less than 70m without that knowledge though. Also, there are at least 8-10 bolts on route that are hand-loose. I dunno how they were attached, but we had to use our ATCs to screw them tight (they conveniently fit the lightening hole profile of the BD guide ATC perfectly). Little scary to see so many loose bolts though, they might need a different style of nut.

Also, the intermediate rap anchor next to P3 is very well hidden, keep looking on the big dirt ledge 4ish bolts up P3. Fun route!

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#1151652 - 09/13/16 09:28 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2461
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
A week ago nuts on all bolts were checked and tightened as needed. I hope to get up there before the fall rains fly and will check then as well.
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

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#1155472 - 07/05/17 08:48 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
MrGecko Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/20/10
Posts: 320
TRs: 3 Photos: 187
Loc: Seattle
Rad - all bolts seemed to be in good shape less that eye sore which is hanging loose and well beaten but not removed on the start of pitch 3. Have you considered a separate rap line down the buttress?

RAPPEL ADVICE
If you end up bringing two ropes then you will only need them for rapping pitch 6 and pitch 1. Backpack the second rope for all other rappels and save yourself the trouble of getting the knot stuck.

Ideally use a 70m rope.

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#1155591 - 07/11/17 11:35 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2461
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
Yes, a single 70 meter rope is ideal.

Thx for the update. Sadly, I'm recovering from an injury, so I won't make it out there.
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

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#1155611 - 07/12/17 10:09 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
dberdinka Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2200
TRs: 44 Photos: 639
Loc: Bellingham
Where are people getting jammed up on the rappel? I think adding a rap anchor (on route) 5-10m above the dihedral belay could allow rapping the route with a 60m rope and probably avoid the one really awkward station to avoid another group. (I think it's possible P1 could be rapped with a 60m but haven't tried it so watch those ends if you do!)

A seperate rap route would entail an equally massive amount of cleaning if not more since the arete seemed like the most solid rock on the peak. Not that I have the time or interest in doing so, but if the routes gotten popular would need to shut down traffic for awhile.
_________________________
You will do foolish things, but do them with enthusiasm!

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#1156320 - 08/17/17 11:00 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Lowell_Skoog Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/25/00
Posts: 2522
TRs: 4 Photos: 15
Loc: Seattle, WA
Climbed MHC with a couple friends yesterday and enjoyed it greatly. We were amazed by the friction offered by this unusual rock. The stance at the top of P5 (the money dihedral) felt pretty darn airy with three people there. The intermediate rap anchor on P3 had a loose nut on the left bolt. Lacking any tools, we just finger tightened it. Probably a good idea to carry a small wrench on this climb.

The exposure of this climb reminded me of the SW ridge of Delago Tower in the Dolomites, a route I did many years ago with my wife. MHC was more technical, but not quite as scenic. wink Thanks Rad and Darin!

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#1156502 - 09/01/17 09:02 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
RodrigoB Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/23/16
Posts: 8
TRs: 2 Photos: 0
I had a lot of fun on this climb about a week ago. Good times. I carried up a wrench a tightened a couple of bolts along the way. That said, I may have missed some given that I was distacted by the disproportionate amount of Type 1 fun. I'd still recommend someone else carry up small wrench for good measure. And thanks for the route Rad and Darin. The summit register suggests your service to the community is well-appreciated. And Lowell, your comment about the contents of the summit register was fantastic.


Edited by RodrigoB (09/01/17 09:04 PM)

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#1156505 - 09/02/17 08:52 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2461
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
Thx. We may look into adding another anchor at the top of p5 to ease the traffic jam of descending vs ascending parties. I'm still healing from hamstring surgery, so it'll be late fall at the earliest. If you have other suggestions please let me know via pm.
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

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#1156784 - 09/26/17 11:17 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Rafael_H Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/20/01
Posts: 468
TRs: 1 Photos: 112
Loc: Mercer Island, WA
Very nice, fun route! Thanks, guys!!!

Climbed in 4 70m rope lengths, linking every 2 pitches, there was a tiny bit simuling on the second pair, can't say how much but my partner was ok with it.

Very cozy, comfortable summit, pleasure to relax a bit on.

The register was easy enough to open, just punch in the answer to a common dynamic programming puzzle, but the box needs to be waterproof.

I apparently forgot the details on rapping, so we scrambled down to the belay station on the big ledge with the messed up bolt. I'd say relocate those bolts a foot down, or just one."

Lots of supercute pikas lagging greenery for nests.


Edited by Rafael_H (09/26/17 11:28 PM)

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#1156794 - 09/27/17 06:00 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
RodrigoB Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/23/16
Posts: 8
TRs: 2 Photos: 0
The simul-bit on the second pitch (3-4 by the book) with the 70 m rope is about 3 m (maybe less). It really just requires a step up and to the left onto ledge if I remember correctly. It's easy terrain for the follower, but still requires stepping away from the belay.


Edited by RodrigoB (09/28/17 06:22 PM)

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#1156839 - 09/29/17 02:48 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2461
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
Updates:

- Bolts at anchors were tightened.
- Managed to leave the socket wrench out there, perhaps on the summit. Send PM if you find it or leave it in the summit register. Thx
- The pitch linking beta above was spot on. 20 quickdraws (10 extendable slings, 10 bones) plus a single 70m rope was sufficient. You can easily skip a few or back clean if needed.
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

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