Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support cc.com.


Supporting Sponsors




Pro Mountain Sports
Thermawrap Parka 12.8oz


blank
Who's Online
2 registered (Stefan, plurpimpin), 62 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
27480 Members
50 Forums
101012 Topics
1148385 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 118
KaskadskyjKozak 112
JasonG 105
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
wayne 78
AlpineK 73
telemarker 71
G-spotter 57
Page 2 of 3 < 1 2 3 >
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#1143387 - 09/28/15 11:26 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper ***** [Re: Rad]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17462
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
if you promote it, they will climb smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
Help Support CascadeClimbers

Atlas 2Lock Carabiner
$16.46
Save 25%


Trail 1 Pack
$22.46
Save 25%

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#1143398 - 09/28/15 05:43 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
bmyers427 Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/13/15
Posts: 17
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Seattle
to clarify for everyone else, the injury was simply an accident and not really related to the route itself. the climb seems pretty safe. most of the belays are protected from rockfall and we got rid of a couple blocks since we knew nobody was in the gully. overall it's a great new route. the grade seemed about right, it's well bolted and the pitches are all good enough that you don't need to fight for who gets which (although we did anyway).

Top
#1143403 - 09/28/15 08:06 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2447
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
Two simple cautionary comments based on our experience and what I've heard:

1 - Top rappel (p7). If you try to rap straight to the p6 anchor from the summit anchor you set yourself up for a short pendulum across the lower face that may swing you into a flake. Instead, rap down to the obvious flake climber's right of the belay, lower yourself along it, then walk left to the belay. Don't un-rope until you're connected to the anchor.

2 - Bottom rappel (p1). The ledge at the start/bottom of the route is still several hundred feet above the talus and there are some exposed spots near the base of the route. It might be wise to walk back to the starting bolt while still on rappel. You can pull the rope from the starting bolt position.

Be safe. Have fun.
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

Top
#1143434 - 09/29/15 04:05 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
fuzzy11287 Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/29/15
Posts: 3
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Based on the length of the pitches and the fact that you specified a 70m rope, I assume this cannot be safely rappelled with a 60m? Was thinking of heading up there this weekend to give it a go, but I think I'll need to find a rope to borrow.

Top
#1143436 - 09/29/15 05:51 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: fuzzy11287]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2447
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
Originally Posted By: fuzzy11287
Based on the length of the pitches and the fact that you specified a 70m rope, I assume this cannot be safely rappelled with a 60m? Was thinking of heading up there this weekend to give it a go, but I think I'll need to find a rope to borrow.


You cannot rappel the route with a single 60 meter rope unless you use some variation of tag line techniques.

Basically, you tie slings or cord on one end of the rope (in this case you'd need >10 meters worth), tie a knot in the rope at the new mid-point (35 meters if you've added 10 meters of slings/tagline to a 60 m rope). Wedge the knot against the anchor rings (all Fixe ring anchors on this route). Clip the knot to the other strand so you don't somehow pull the knot through the anchor. Clip your rap device onto the full length rope segment (weight to test BEFORE unclipping from the anchor) .Rap on a single strand of rope on the long rope end (not the tagline end)(tie a knot so you don't go off the end accidentally). Rap. Clip into the next anchor. Pull the tag line/sling end to retrieve your rope. Easy. But if you screw it up you could die. You should NOT try it for the first time 6 pitches up an alpine route. Go get it wired in a safe setting and find a better source of information than me. This is a useful trick to have in your toolkit anyway.

Or just borrow a 70 meter rope.
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

Top
#1143450 - 09/30/15 08:42 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
fuzzy11287 Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/29/15
Posts: 3
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
That's what I figured. Thanks for the reply, and yeah, knowing how to use a tag line is a good skill to have for sure. I think I'll just borrow a rope though.

Top
#1143456 - 09/30/15 09:44 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: dberdinka]
joe_catellani Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/25/00
Posts: 40
TRs: 3 Photos: 0
Loc: ballard
This tower could be called "Vegan" since it it just N of Vega Tower.

Top
#1143476 - 09/30/15 07:36 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Trent Offline
member

Registered: 04/24/04
Posts: 170
TRs: 14 Photos: 170
Loc: Stanwood
A great route with thoughtful protection. The rock was mostly solid with some really fun movement. A future classic for sure! Thanks to Darin and Rad for the vision and work!
_________________________
Walking is SO underrated!

Top
#1143486 - 10/01/15 08:29 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Choada_Boy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/05/05
Posts: 2432
TRs: 4 Photos: 39
Loc: Your Mom's House
Looks like a great line, and a lot of hard scrubbing for both of you

I don't want to arm chair quarterback here, but I see in the pictures that there seems to be plenty of spots for gear next to some of your bolt placements. Perhaps a mixed line on such a route might have discouraged eager folks with less experience from perhaps getting in over their heads up there. Pretty committing location for alpine sport climbing, in my humble, unsolicited opinion.

Top
#1143506 - 10/02/15 07:35 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Choada_Boy]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2447
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
Originally Posted By: Choada_Boy
I don't want to arm chair quarterback here


As I mentioned above, I'll write up more on this route in a separate thread. Feel free to express your opinions there. Thank you for keeping this thread clear of bolting debates.
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

Top
#1143572 - 10/03/15 02:03 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Choada_Boy]
kukuzka1 Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/25/10
Posts: 506
TRs: 5 Photos: 119
Loc: county jail
Quote:
I don't want to arm chair quarterback here, but I see in the pictures that there seems to be plenty of spots for gear next to some of your bolt placements. Perhaps a mixed line on such a route might have discouraged eager folks with less experience from perhaps getting in over their heads up there. Pretty committing location for alpine sport climbing, in my humble, unsolicited opinion
tup
_________________________
train hard climb harder

Top
#1143575 - 10/03/15 09:28 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
ewhittaker Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/31/10
Posts: 8
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
3 more ascents today, Oct 3rd. Great time was had by all. Super fun route. We did watch some natural rockfall occur at random from the top of the gully to the right of the route. Exploded all over that approach gully, but all three teams were on the route and safe. Take the FA team's advice and wear a helmet and move quickly through there.

And the secret at the top... very provocative and titillating. I'll say no more!

Top
#1143576 - 10/03/15 09:37 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17462
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
is there a popcorn maker up there w/ a 2 mile extension cord on it? smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

Top
#1143579 - 10/04/15 02:29 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2447
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

Top
#1143637 - 10/05/15 12:54 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: ivan]
kukuzka1 Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/25/10
Posts: 506
TRs: 5 Photos: 119
Loc: county jail
Originally Posted By: ivan
is there a popcorn maker up there w/ a 2 mile extension cord on it? smile
rocken lmao
_________________________
train hard climb harder

Top
#1143640 - 10/05/15 01:21 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
benmurphy Offline
member

Registered: 03/23/05
Posts: 161
TRs: 17 Photos: 262
Loc: bardo pond
Thanks guys for all the work on an awesome route! We were one of 3 parties that summited yesterday (10/4). Given the shorter days we reached the summit just before sunset and had fun rapping down with headlamps!

Top
#1143644 - 10/05/15 03:09 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
alpine et Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 242
TRs: 4 Photos: 33
Loc: Maple Leaf
glad you guys made it down...we were rambling down the trail after being party number... 5 or 6(?) up Ragged Edge. Saw you guys rapping (pre-headlamp) silhouetted against the sunset.... looked like a long way down yet!
_________________________
Erik

http://www.highpressurephotography.com

Top
#1143667 - 10/05/15 10:50 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: alpine et]
fuzzy11287 Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/29/15
Posts: 3
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Yep, it absolutely was a long way down. The raps went pretty slow so it turned into a longer day than we were expecting, but all the stations were easy to find in the dark so it wasn't too bad. I will say that the climb doesn't seem to handle heavy traffic well due to limited space at a few of the belay stations, so if you're planning on climbing this factor in some padding for delays on busy days.

Other than that my partner and I had a blast climbing it.

Top
#1149595 - 06/23/16 01:10 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Steph_Abegg Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 02/12/07
Posts: 273
TRs: 52 Photos: 204
Loc: Bellingham, WA
Here's my trip report for June 2016 (first party up there this season):
https://sites.google.com/a/stephabegg.co...es/milehighclub

If you are looking for a pretty low commitment day of "alpine cragging," this is a good route to consider.

Starting up Pitch 1:


Climbing en route:


Edited by Steph_Abegg (06/23/16 04:25 PM)

Top
#1149614 - 06/23/16 06:31 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
dberdinka Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2197
TRs: 44 Photos: 639
Loc: Bellingham
I'm honored and surprised you would dump my route overlays right into your website. But then again I learned everything I know from (imitating) you.
_________________________
You will do foolish things, but do them with enthusiasm!

Top
#1149619 - 06/23/16 11:43 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2447
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
Nice! The forecast is for 6" of snow on top of Vesper in the next 24 hours, so it might be even more alpine tomorrow...
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

Top
#1149736 - 06/27/16 07:41 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: dberdinka]
olyclimber Offline
☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 25288
TRs: 47 Photos: 893
Loc: In Love with You
This looks pretty fun!

Top
#1150281 - 07/17/16 08:50 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
Wellman Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/23/15
Posts: 6
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Seattle, WA
Just climbed this today. It certainly scratched all of the alpine itches: exposure, wildness, views, solitude (only party up there). Really fun pitches with the dihedral topping the cake for me. There is still a good amount of loose holds and flakes (P4 flake that you stand on isn't long for this world).

It has the alpine weather too. We charged up it while MHB was shrouded in mist and didn't feel a drop of rain through the partly sunny sky until the summit. By the end of the first rappel it had begun to rain. By the second rappel it was hailing and thundering. Third and fourth rappel we were rapping in a waterfall with the sky lighting up within a mile of us. At one point my partner felt a warming in his arms and his hair started to stand. Not my favorite place to be covered in metal doo-dads. The descent gully was also a waterfall and some pretty powerful flash streams washed out some upper portions of the main trail.

We made it down fine and with all the storming and drenched rappels we were car to car in 9 hours. 2 hours each way hiking, 3.5 climbing, 1.5 wet rappelling (didn't need the intermediate rappel on P3 either, a 70m got us to the ledge where we could walk to the next station).

Thanks for putting this up! It's a pretty stellar route and I really don't think it would make sense as a mixed route. The few natural protections spots are a pretty dicey mixture of unattached blocks and flakes with some excellent cracks.

Top
#1150653 - 08/01/16 09:45 AM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
BootsandPants Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/02/11
Posts: 293
TRs: 16 Photos: 49
Loc: under there
Climbed the route a few days ago and had a great time getting into an area I often overlook. Those moves out onto that arete were awesome! Fun stuff, thanks for the vision and hard work.

Quick note; a nut on one of the anchor bolts at the top of the dihedral pitch is loose. I tightened it down the best I could with what I had on hand, but it could use a proper tightening down if anyone is heading up that way and is inclined to carry a small wrench.
_________________________
Left Coast Livin'

Top
#1150878 - 08/10/16 03:10 PM Re: [TR] Mile High Club - new route near Vesper [Re: Rad]
eggplantalpinism Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/11/16
Posts: 4
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Looking to do this pretty soon, I have a 70m that a buddy hit with a pick on a mixed route...causing it to be a 66m. Are any raps going to be too long for a 66m rope?

Top
Page 2 of 3 < 1 2 3 >



Moderator:  chucK, mattp, Off_White, snoboy, To_The_Top 
© 2000-10 cascadeclimbers.com · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top