ivan Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 Trip: beacon rawk - jensens ridge n' stephenwolf Date: 9/15/2007 Trip Report: fantubulous day on the monolith - cool w/ a breeze - endless trains and the redneck across the river firing off several cannons every few minutes jensens needs to get climbed more - very, very fun - bring doubles of damn near everything up to #4, plus a #5 - the crack itself is clean but the stemming is all fucked up by the overabudance of lichen on the walls - the 3rd pithc is ecstatic fun up to the trail - plenty of poison oak to wade through just below the railings - the route needs anchor replacement and traffic and it'd be classic - at least where the anchor bolts are shitty there's like twenty to clip between s-wolf similiar silly fun - need to go someday when i can do the final pitches above big ledge - wish i was a real climber, had to use my patented french technique often - i heart fifi hooks - how the hell is the last 10 feet of the route up to big ledge not 11? jeebus! god i love beacon - the whole iraq war thing woulda been worth it to me if only we'd be able to keep the rock open yearround b/c of it! Gear Notes: bring a lot of everything, especially if yer lame like me Approach Notes: dog poo still on the trail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 17, 2007 Author Share Posted September 17, 2007 wow - yeah, i musta got more oak on me then i thought at first - my face, hands and forearms are all beginning the process of the zombie melt-down - think this time i'll be taking the steroids before children start running from me n' crying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 Link to cures for poison oak Read this and act immediately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 17, 2007 Author Share Posted September 17, 2007 thanks for the advice bill - when i realized i'd probably eaten some of the oil and that it was breaking out all over my face i went to the doctor and got prednisone - time will tell how it works out, but in the meantime i'm feeling like running a goddamn marathon! woke up after 4 hours of sleep this morning ready to rock! my poor kids at school - i talk fast enough as is... back to the pt - more folks need to do jensens - brush out all the lichen for the stemming - cut out the oak at the trail exit (wish the park would do that, it's right on the railings)- putting in some modern anchors ain't a bad idea either and what's the deal w/ stephenwolf? is 10c really right for that roof right below big ledge? i wasn't even close to freeing that part! it must go back more than a body length, and no feet at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Trip: beacon rawk - jensens ridge n' stephenwolf Date: 9/15/2007 Trip Report: fantubulous day on the monolith - cool w/ a breeze - endless trains and the redneck across the river firing off several cannons every few minutes jensens needs to get climbed more - very, very fun - bring doubles of damn near everything up to #4, plus a #5 - the crack itself is clean but the stemming is all fucked up by the overabudance of lichen on the walls - the 3rd pithc is ecstatic fun up to the trail - plenty of poison oak to wade through just below the railings - the route needs anchor replacement and traffic and it'd be classic - at least where the anchor bolts are shitty there's like twenty to clip between s-wolf similiar silly fun - need to go someday when i can do the final pitches above big ledge - wish i was a real climber, had to use my patented french technique often - i heart fifi hooks - how the hell is the last 10 feet of the route up to big ledge not 11? jeebus! god i love beacon - the whole iraq war thing woulda been worth it to me if only we'd be able to keep the rock open yearround b/c of it! Gear Notes: bring a lot of everything, especially if yer lame like me Approach Notes: dog poo still on the trail wow, been going on 8 years since i done this first - amazing we did s-wulf the same day - not got quite that much moxie in the tank these days 1/25 - day 3 - a day to die for - the circle complete - beacon set to close up shop for a mighty long season but fate vouch-safed to chuck this plum in a poor fools lap before it could sling off into spring 'twas a week for settling old scores - my court-date a comely kick-off, it was time to finish the climb adam and i had started that ill-omened late autumn day - we'd bailed from 2 pitches up, having to leave a tangle of biners and webbing to make the 5 lbj-era bolts up there work - hate to let a year go by w/o climbing jensens, and lordy didn't the stars align to reclaim the gear and get lit like a lord in doing so first it was me n' adam on the list - then it was me n' adam n' goeff - it grew then to the 3 of us n' bryan too, then finally even fucking mike was coming out of his homo-biking hermitage to have at it w/ o - a 5-spot for fortune n' fleeting greatness started poorly enough - me n' mike sitting at the b.k. for a good bit waiting for the assembly of demi-gods to gaggle together - eventually bryan and goeff showed a half hour late but i didn't mind - heavy fog in camas but frequently giant flocks of geese would go raging by above, gaudy as ghosts, gallumping off north - we gave adam 3 minutes to arrive then called to discover he was still snoozing in bed - damn, my cheap oregon smokes were in danger (and shit, i never did give that boy his 5-spot! remind me when next we meet, hear?) sunny on the south side but a bit of a breeze - quite the clown-fucking convention we had to contend with - eventually we got it settled - geoff lead p1 whle mike belays and bryan and i get to guzzle beer and recollect it as recreation geoff got his redemption for shitting between the sheets last month in a steel breeze - mike followed then bryan - adam was there by then, and goeff chucked down the other end of a 70 as bryan was climbing so i could send up another line and the li'l dawg - bryan cast off on p2 as i started jugging and i had a penthouse view of him slip-slidign away on the awful slippery lichenated stone - i had some gut-chuckles w/ the boys n' a butt too as we buttoned-up against the breeze, then bryan was there and i went on up to him to help out in getting An Anchor For a Modern Era bryan was over his dream of repeating a free-ascent of the money pitch and suddenly i found myself delighted to get that pithy peach - adam was still on the ground, connected to us w/ a 70 - geoff came up on the new anchor as i launched into the incredible start that is jensen's 3rd pitch just starting the 11a crack on a blind placement time went by - jim and bill arrived below - lichen populated my eye-balls - the laughable # of 3s, 4s, n' 5s i had got whittled away and then i was there - bryan followed, panting in the odd hibernal-heat as he made the pillar-top - he rested and sorted as geoff followed then was off lickety-split, ending up aiding plenty of the pitch mike jugged up in a jiffy n' got a spiffy pano need to put a decent anchor in the lower nothc of jensens as i was a wee bit unhappy in my pee-pee places to see what had been holding me from flying through the sky down to the sea - an ocean of ants, the fould reek of formic acid exploding on the scene - frogs creek n' croaking, the whole world in wonder at the folly of winter with her guard down, panties askew and napping suddenly we were all at the railing w/ jim n' hogsheads of tourons trundlign up down and all around - butts n' beers n' bullshitting and a fine heady-brew of homo sapien comraderie - the parking lot in the dying lot - pbrs n' pleasant conversation as adam went down to fetch the what have yous, then we set our sights west and went back to being ordinary men poor adam - he ripped 50 feet of poision oak cables out of lay lady lay and the vicinty w/ not even gloves on his hands - he'll be in intensive care till next christmas i fear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Nice work, boyz. I was supposed to come out to Beaconland today too but sick as a puppy, ended up vomiting all weekend long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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