MrGecko Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 For all you well traveled trad masters of the Beacon. Went up YW yesterday and have a question with regards to the 4th pitch that heads up the rounded arete. From the large ledge I stepped left and began moving up to where I found a 1/4" bolt (time to replace this). I continued on past another 3/8" rusty bolt (needs to be replaced as well) and then got some gear in a flake above that. I pulled over a small lip and found two rusted home made anchors and then moved right across a slab and further up some fun slab with a pin in it and eventually ended up at the SE Corner belay stance. The route description didn't mention any bolts, pins or an intermediate belay. Was I on route or ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 sounds like you did it right - the intermediate belay is not used by most and has always felt off-route to me - as to the route description not mentioning fixed gear, well.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrGecko Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share Posted September 14, 2014 Thanks Mr Ivan - I thought maybe those intermediate anchors were for the Elusive Element or Cloud Nine routes and was thinking I might have missed the YW upper line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 You missed the line. You DO NOT go to those anchors. After clipping the second bolt, you head up and right pulling into a short corner and clipping a pin, again up and right pulling another overhang where you can stick a green camalot, then short wide crack and a mantle to the top of a pillar where you can reach left and place a purple camalot. From there its up to a fixed pin and then up to where you clip the bolt before mantling onto the slab and frictioning right to a pin in the slab. Stopper in the lip after the slab, pull over, and then a gray camalot protects the final moves to the belay where it joins with the corner. Ivan knows that, he just did the pitch with me 2 days ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrGecko Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share Posted September 14, 2014 Good Hezues! Better head out with you Steve and do it again...grrrr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Good Hezues! Better head out with you Steve and do it again...grrrr Better yet, do it w Kevbone "sans bolts"... I'd recommend bringing Arnt along as a rope gun too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 naw steve, sounds like they just mildly off-route at that one part near the dumb anchor - he describes the crux "fun slab w/ pin" just right kee-rist - first time i tried climbing warriors was w/ layton and niether of us knew where the fuck we were going - went way off right just before stoner ledge and did something very adventerous to the ridge in 2 more pitches - never did try repeating that way for good reason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 You are right Ivan that they got part of it right, but if you go left to that old anchor you miss all the good sections before the slab, some of the best climbing. The way MrGecko is talking about going is the way Anastasia goes, its dirty and chossy but a little easier, crappy gear. Denali Dave, you back in town yet? Or just building windmills in the sky? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrGecko Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 Went back out with LostCamK and after a lap on Right Gull we rapped down Jill's and traversed over to SE Corner. Did the good pitch and instead of going to the tree ledge we traversed to the top of the second pitch of YW and did the third, fourth and fifth pitches. Ivan was right, I only missed a bit on the 4th pitch but did get the intro to the 'proper' 5th pitch which traverses up right from the belay and clips a pin and a bolt and then eventually meets the ridge. Thanks All! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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