[TR] Forbidden Peak - West Ridge 8/26/2014

[Somethingclever]

 

 

For all of the photos and the long story/description, check out my blog www.ThePathLessTraveled.Me

 

Short(er) Version:

 

Approach-

 

Registered at the Ranger station around 9am on Monday morning (8/25) and made our way up Cascade River Road. Started up the Climbers trail around 11:45 and crossed several creeks along the way, most of which were low and easy to cross. Took about 4 hours to camp, taking several breaks.

 

Left the treeline and made our way up the meadow to High Camp at 6300 Feet. 3 or 4 of the campsites are dry and quite nice. Mice everywhere, use your NP issued Bear Canister or bring your own.

 

Started at about 5:30AM and made our way up the southern most creek bed on the slabs through a notch. Moved directly North across large slabs below the glacier crossing several small chutes eventually crossing onto the glacier.

 

Hiked to the base of the approach gullies to be denied by a deep moat. Retreated down to the large rock to the climbers right (descender s left). We found an easy and safe place to cross and climbed up the gully, stashed gear and ascended the middle approach gully.

 

Reached the notch about an hour later and did most of our climbing roped. Fun route! lots of scrambling. We had amazing weather the entire climb.

 

Made 3 Raps down the ridge and down climbed the rest. Scrambled down from the notch and found an AWESOME series of anchors built with 10MM rope and protected with Tubular webbing, Nice rap rings too! Thanks to whoever put those up.

 

Totaled 9 Rappels to the Glacier and stayed an extra evening at camp. Great climb!