[TR] 8 Days on the East Side - 11/9/2013

[climbingcoastie]

Trip: 8 Days on the East Side -

 

Date: 11/9/2013

 

Trip Report:

 

 

Day 1

 

Josh picked me up in his rig Saturday morning for a week on the East Side.

 

Josh’s rig

 

With 120 being open through the park we decided on climbing in Tuolumne along the way.

 

Two of the climbs right off the road I that have been on my to do list, but never got the chance due to crowds in the summer Hermaphrodite Flake to the Boltway and The Great White Book.

 

As we pulled into the parking area there was a party on the flake and another standing at the base waiting their turn. Decision was easy so we jumped on Great White Book (5.6 R). I’m not sure if we climbed higher than most before belaying or what but we ended up doing it in four pitches. The first pitch was a fun corner with decent protection that you lie backed/stemmed your way up. The second pitch continues the stem/chimney and is where the “R” comes into place. I ended up climbing to the bolts without ever placing a piece. The other two pitches were pretty runout also, but I at least got a couple pieces in. After the exposed walk off we went to check out the ice in Lee Vining then to Saddlebag Lake for the night.

 

Josh approaching the first belay

 

Me at the first belay

 

A French climber on The Boltway with Tenaya Lake below

 

Run out forth pitch

 

Half Dome from the summit

 

 

Day 2

 

We woke up a little before 0500, had breakfast, and then started hiking towards North Peak as the sun was starting to come up. We followed the well-established trail around the lake and followed an old road for a bit before turning off and heading cross-country. We tried picking our way around snow patches and lakes to the base of the Northeast Couloir of North Peak. The last ¼ mile took almost an hour with the thigh deep powder snow over boulders. We kept looking at the line to the left of the Northeast Couloir as it was a very striking line, but as our first ice climb of the season we settled on the our original objective. A few hours later we were topping out on the couloir and forwent the summit due to time. We made it back to the truck s the sun was going down.

 

North Peak

 

Northeast Couloir

 

Josh climbing the second pitch

 

Dreaming it was taller and thicker

 

 

Day 3

 

We slept in a little then headed back up to Toulomne and climbed Hermaphrodite Flake (5.4) to the Boltway (5.8). Josh lead the tunnel-through variation which was fun, but a bit awkward as I had a pack hanging from my harness. I got the lead on the next two pitches that were fun climbing in a great location. Once we were done and had a quick lunch we headed over to Lembert Dome and climbed Left Water Crack (5.7R). The Supertopo book pretty much sums it up, “Awkward, strange, weird, and runout”. Not sure how this is such a popular route and don’t know if I’ll do it again. We drove to June Lake for dinner at the Tiger Bar then to Parker Lake trailhead for the night.

 

Josh on the last pitch of the Boltway

 

Josh on top of the Water Cracks with Cathedral behind him

 

 

Day 4

 

We headed out at 0540 and followed beautiful trail to the east side of Parker Lake. This is where we lost the trail and I started questioning my sanity! We checked the weather the night before and it was suppose to be 70* in The Valley that day. With a lifetime of routes within minutes of the car just an hour away, why in the hell was I doing a steep three-hour approach to freeze my ass off. After hearing that solid “thunk” every ice climber searches for it all made since.

 

We decided to climb the left side of the right hand flow first. Josh cut a deal with me and got the first lead (I get the first lead on our trip to Alaska in February). He made easy work of the lower angled section down low. I could tell he had some issues as he was trying to clear the lip of the climb, it wasn’t until I followed him that I realized why. Our first water fall ice of the season, the ice on top of the lip was breaking up leaving slick slab exposed with nothing to use the ice tools on. I was a little nervous on top rope, so I could only imagine what was going through his head on lead.

 

Once down, I picked a line just to the right of what he climbed and lead up to a 15’ vertical curtain. I drove a screw in at the base of it and headed up. I was thinking “November 12th, in California, and I’m climbing water ice. Who would have thought?” We decided to rap off a V-thread and headed to the left hand flow for one lead each.

 

We lost the trail heading back down so it put us at the truck right as it was getting dark. We drove to Mammoth for pizza and gas while trying to figure out a plan. I texted a couple friends and asked about hot springs in the area. With directions in hand we headed out. I opted to freeze that night walking to/from the hot springs, but enjoyed the nice soak.

 

View back down canyon from about half way.

 

Worth every step.

 

First water ice of the season!

 

Getting ready to climb the left hand flow.

 

Day 5

 

Another lazy morning starting off with breakfast then another soak in the hot springs. Once we got ourselves motivated to hit the road we headed further south to Owens River Gorge. I started off on a short 5.5 route to get use to the rock having never been there before. I’d always heard ORG was soft in their ratings, but after climbing that I thought there’s no way I am going to be able to climb harder than 5.8. We went around the corner and climbed a couple more routes then moved to an area called The Warm Up Wall. We climbed several routes in the 5.7-5.9 range here, then headed back towards the truck stopping to climb another 5.7 & 5.9. At the base of the 5.9 there was a wooden plaque honoring someone that died climbing the route. This messed with my head the first half of the route. Once I finished that we headed back up to the truck via moonlight. We headed into Bishop to for a couple things and then to the famous “Pit” campground for the night.

 

On our way down into the Lower Gorge

 

Almost to the climbs

 

One way to fill the water tank without a spicket. We had to hand pump the water into the jug then fill the camper.

 

The famous “Pit” campground. Not bad for $2 a night!

 

 

 

Day 6

 

After heading back into Bishop for a few things and stopping at the bakery we headed back to Owens River Gorge. This time we took a trad rack as we seen a couple cracks the day before that intrigued us. The first route I lead was a 5.4 fairing crack that had loose rock all the way up it. I felt it was very sketchy for a 5.4 and it reminded me of a 5.5 at the Leap called the Farce. Once Josh climbed it we did a beautiful 5.8 called Mile High Crack . I’d say this was probably the single best rock pitch of the whole trip! You probably could have lead it with triples of .5 & .75 and nothing else. It had good feet on the outside and decent jamming where there wasn’t face holds to climb. Feeding off the high I got from it I jumped on Wowie Zowie, my first 5.10a lead! Josh liked Mile High Crack so much that he decided to lead it afterwards. We then headed further into the gorge and climbed several routes including another 10a lead for me and a 10c clean on toprope. Overall it was a long day of hard (for me anyways) climbing and my fingers we raw. We had sushi on our way through Bishop heading down to Alabama hills.

 

The 5.4 to the left of the chimney. And the awesome 5.8 to the right.

 

From the base

 

Josh cleaning Mile High Crack

 

Can’t get enough of fall colors

 

 

Day 7

 

It was a little windy when we woke up and chilly in the shade. We climbed a couple easier routes one was bolted and the other was bolts with gear. We then walked to an area called The Corridors and climbed a couple more routes up to 5.10a. We tried one climb but didn’t know how hard it was and neither of us could make it to the top. Josh climbed the route next to it to retrieve our bail draw. I couldn’t make it up that route so he had to re-climb it to get our gear. We walked over to Paul’s Paradise area and climbed Ted Shread (5.9 but Mountain Project consensus is 5.7+). It would have been a fun little climb except my fingers were so raw I could barely hold on to anything. Josh cleaned it in his approach shoes and we hiked over to The Shark's Fin . A friend told me that if I’m ever in Alabama Hills that I needed to climb it, if for nothing else the views and photo op. I lead Shark’s Fin Arête (5.7), though it had great views of Mt. Whitney I thought it was anticlimactic when I reached the top. If we would have had a third to get a picture of me climbing it I might feel a little differently about it. I climbed the other 5.7 on the Fin and called it quits. Seven days of climbing with so many climbs at/near my limit yesterday really had me hurting. Josh climbed the 5.7 and moved the rope to another climb (5.10ish) and I belayed him while laying on the ground. We laid in the sun relaxing until the sun ducked behind the mountains and headed back to the truck for dinner. After dinner we headed back up to Bishop and stayed at the Pit again.

 

The long approaches in Alabama Hills

 

The Shark's Fin with Mt. Whitney in the background

 

Day 8

 

With my fingers being so sore and with a tired body I wasn’t sure how much climbing I would have in me today. We headed back to ORG, this time we went to the upper gorge while toting a trad rack. We went to All You Can Eat Wall and climbed a fun 5.7 trad route called Fine Dining. It had a couple tricky sections in it but great gear all the way. The shunts at the top were very worn and made me a little nervous being lowered on them. Once Josh cleaned it we mover over to Alfred Hitchcrack (5.8) which was a fun lead. There was plenty of jamming broken up by nice face holds. Cinderella (5.9), a four star bolted route was next. It looked like a nice finger crack all the way up a dihedral. When I was back on the ground all I told Josh was “that’s not what I expected from that climb” he asked what I meant and I told him “you’ll see”. Once he climbed it he agreed.

 

All You Can Eat Wall the 5.7 to the left of the rope. 5.8 the crack to the right, and Cinderella is the corner just left of the grass

 

We moved across the canyon to a climb called Silence of the Poodles (5.8). I started to get a pit in my stomach while I was gearing up and fought it the whole way up this climb. Not sure if it was the climb or me but it felt really hard. Come to find out it’s one of the hardest 5.8’s in the gorge. We moved over to My Favorite Animal is a Ligar (5.10b) where Josh lead it. He cleaned everything on the way down as I wasn’t sure if I was going to lead it, toprope it, or pull the rope and move on. I decided to give it a go on lead and somehow made it without falling for my first 10b lead! We sat and watched a guy cussing out his partner for taking him up a multi-pitch 10c. He was hanging in free air thrashing around trying to get back on the rock. Turns out it was his first multi-pitch climb. Several of us were laughing at the situation and their conversation. We move further up the canyon where I belayed Josh on a 10c. I passed on even attempting it and decided on a short 5.8 crack climb we had passed along the way. I geared up and tried pulling the first move and my arms wouldn’t bare any weight. I stepped off the rock and declared I was done for the day. Josh asked if I wanted to try it again and I declined saying I didn’t want it to piss me off and I’d just save it for next time. I belayed him up it and then on another climb next to it, then we headed out.

 

We grabbed Subway for the road in Bishop and decided to try and get home. I walked in my door at 10:45 after eight days of climbing. Needless to say I was tired and ready for a shower. I didn’t envy Josh as he had another hour and a half drive north to get home. Overall a great trip and I look forward to many more with a great partner.

 

Approach Notes:

Really enjoyed the camper!

[Pete04]

That's a heckuva week - well done!