[TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 7/4/2012

[0321recon]

Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress

 

Date: 7/4/2012

 

Trip Report:

 

I’ve wanted to climb Chair Peak for some time now and when the email came through from Larry for a Fourth of July alpine climb I was ready. Larry had climbed the NE Buttress last year and was willing to give it another go. He led using twin 60-meter ropes, a number of cams, including a BD 3, a sling along the way, and someone else’s nut from a previous climb. I used an ice ax on a short snowfield after the last pitch, just before the easy scramble to the summit. This snowfield will linger quite a while more I think. I didn’t think the scramble after the last rock pitch was that easy, lots of loose rock. We found the two old pitons, and many different belay and rappel stations. One rappel station, blue and white, had what looked like a 8mm Maillon around the webbing with a descending ring attached. Unfortunately it is rubbing, draped over the rock. I sacrificed a carabiner here to add some newness.

 

 

 

There is quite a moat at the base of the climb, which can be bypassed. The gully to the ridge at Thumbtack is in good shape. Larry and I discussed whether a moat will form? His party ascended last year end of July and no moat had formed yet then.

 

I was able to kick steps well on the small snowfield below main summit area.

 

Chair Peak NE B

 

Gear Notes:

boots, cams 2, 3, .5, old piton. Belay and rappel stations plenty. Twin/half 60s. Ice ax up higher.

 

Approach Notes:

Snow Lake trail ok, good boot track to upper basin and over to Pineapple Basin. Thumbtack gully in good shape. Moat at base of climb, skirt left.