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[TR] Triple Couloirs - Dragontail 5/27/2012


bonathanjarrett

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Trip: Triple Couloirs - Dragontail

 

Date: 5/27/2012

 

Trip Report:

Climbed Triple Couloir on Saturday. We found the route in pretty excellent shape for the end of May. The couloirs were superb snice bottom to top allowing us to solo all but two sections in just 3.5 hours. I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking.

 

Route overview:

DSC02308.JPG

 

Close up of Runnels:

DSC02332.JPG

 

Looking down the first couloir:

DSC02313.JPG

 

Runnels from below. Call them in. Call them out. Call them what you will:

DSC023141.JPG

 

Option #2 Gulley:

DSC023181.JPG

 

Looking back at the 5.8 traverse which was spicy fun:

DSC023201.JPG

 

Slab from 2nd to 3rd Couloir:

DSC023221.JPG

 

Midway up the 3rd Couloir:

DSC02325.JPG

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

60 meter rope

1-10 nuts

6 cams from .25"-2.5"

1 knifeblade/1 bugaboo

 

Approach Notes:

We were able to go car to car in under 10 hours due to snow free trail, great conditions on route, and firm snow for the descent off the backside.

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I've been climbing this route for 20 years. Used to be February was prime season. Last time I climbed it April was fat. Now it seems late May is the time to do it. Is global climate change 'pushing' the season forward or just shortening the season?

Edited by DPS
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I've been climbing this route for 20 years. Used to be February was prime season. Last time I climbed it April was fat. Now it seems late May is the time to do it. Is global climate change 'pushing' the season forward or just shortening the season?

 

The last 5 years have definitely* seen a change in snowpack accumulation locally, with less snow in early winter (up to January) and more snow late in winter through to May.

 

* verified from automated snowpack pillows, but not long enough of a trend to be statistically significant yet.

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in the photo with the 5.8 traverse, I can see what looks like a old avi debris that poured onto the frozen lake. Looks like torn apart trees deposited onto the ice. Is this what it looks like? While certainly possible, I have never seen avi debris in that part of the area. (which is a nice bivy area in winter)

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