YocumRidge Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 Very inviting indeed. An interesting optical illusion that the North face looks almost vertical from this angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Nastia loves the epic. She's an epicmonger... That explains why she hangs w Ivan so much... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 Nastia loves the epic. She's an epicmonger... That explains why she hangs w Ivan so much... Yep, it is mutual... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 Nastia, is there any chance you could trce out the line of your ascent on the photo that Dougd posted, and the other alternate line or approach? It shows the whole face really well. Very curious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Cannon Power Shot A560 can only do so much I guess... As I approached I remember looking at the N Face and thinking that left around the shrund would be best also.. I can send you the pic if it helps. d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Nastia loves the epic. She's an epicmonger... That explains why she hangs w Ivan so much... Yep, it is mutual... And here I thought it was because he's such a charming and erudite Renaissance Man... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 Here is the pic taken a couple of weeks earlier during our reckon of the shrund. Pretty much the same approach with a higher drop off down to the Eliot gl from Cooper Spur (at 7800') than the one marked with a cairn (at 6800'). The alternative approach is to start at the T-lodge and traverse across the Newton Clark gl (which can be crevassed) below the Black Spider wall to the Tie-In rock on Cooper Spur and from there to the left gully. It is less vert gain, may be faster and you dont need to shuttle the car if you are coming down the south side. I have not done it though. On the upper part of the route, we veered off to the left more than needed trying to dodge the constant spindrifts coming down the upper Eliot. Steve, it started dumping up there. Are you going to ski the North face? Be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 And here I thought it was because he's such a charming and erudite Renaissance Man... Did you know Paul that Ivan submitted his application for the "Tsar of All Russia" position to the russian government? Too many thiefs and crooks there, - just about time to start inviting vikings like in the past.. Greatest russian painters represent "Ivan the Terrible and His Son Ivan on November 16th, 1581", Oil on canvas, 1885. How charming is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaredSilly Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 A- I have gone around the hill a couple of times, but only to get back to Cloud Cap. Crossing the Newton Clark is pretty straight forward and both times (mid October and early July) I have done it crevasses were not an issue. In fact, both times were done sans rope, the first time actually solo. However, if coming round to get on to the Elliot one needs to ascend up the Spur and then turn around and lose it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 And here I thought it was because he's such a charming and erudite Renaissance Man... Did you know Paul that Ivan submitted his application for the "Tsar of All Russia" position to the russian government? Too many thiefs and crooks there, - just about time to start inviting vikings like in the past.. Greatest russian painters represent "Ivan the Terrible and His Son Ivan on November 16th, 1581", Oil on canvas, 1885. How charming is that? looks about like our playing w/ legos scene this afternoon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Thanks Nastia, cool! I am thinking more of climbing it soon. Looks like the weather window just slipped away for the time being. 6 inches of new up there right now in the past few hours, and supposed to storm all week. I never thought Ivan so much epiced as embraced epicing. If the guy can maintain his cool stuck in a cave underground in a tight little rock tube, my thought is he can keep his cool anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 I have gone around the hill a couple of times, but only to get back to Cloud Cap. Crossing the Newton Clark is pretty straight forward and both times (mid October and early July) I have done it crevasses were not an issue. In fact, both times were done sans rope, the first time actually solo. However, if coming round to get on to the Elliot one needs to ascend up the Spur and then turn around and lose it again. Good to know there are no crevasses on the Newton Clark. I have not done the circumnavigation so I would not know . Why however would you need to go around the Spur and drop down to the Eliot if you are heading up the left gully on the NF? The traverse from the Tie-in rock is very straightforward. I do see the need to go around and down the Spur if one is to climb the right gully or Sunshine/Coe's for that matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 (edited) Looking SW toward Jefferson @ 9000ft on the spur. Is this the Newton Clark Gl you all are referring to? Edited December 26, 2011 by dougd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Looking SW toward Jefferson @ 9000ft on the spur. Is this the Newton Clark Gl you all are referring to? Are those wind slab crowns or crevasses?? Yikes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 They are crevasses on what may be the lower Newton Clark glacier. I thought they looked cool so snapped the pic. d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaredSilly Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Good to know there are no crevasses on the Newton Clark. I have not done the circumnavigation so I would not know . Slight nit - I did not say there were no crevasses, there are, just that they were not a problem when traversing back from the South Side to Cooper's Spur. The first time I when through in Oct there were cracks but they were not significant. When we went through in early July we did not cross any. Also the traverse starts high around 9400'-9200' and finally regaining the Spur at around 7500' or so. Someone doing the same from T-line is apt to be lower thus could run into crevasses issues lower down as they gain altitude on the approach. Why however would you need to go around the Spur and drop down to the Eliot if you are heading up the left gully on the NF? The traverse from the Tie-in rock is very straightforward. I did not mean to go around then up the up the Spur. But when coming from Newton Clark one is coming in perpendicular to the spur. Depending on where one gains the spur the glacier is may be 200-300 vertical feet below Spur. So to gain it one needs to climb up the side of the spur. Then as you say traverse over if high enough or drop down to the Elliot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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