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#1037395 - 10/09/11 07:12 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: ivan]
YocumRidge Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 1247
TRs: 46 Photos: 647
Loc: PDX
It is almost that time of the year again. :drool:

North side rules:


New snow on Eliot at 6000':


New ice on Eliot at 7500':


Even the dog is stoked:
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"Dragged by the force of some inner tide" ~ David Gilmour

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#1037404 - 10/09/11 08:11 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
wow, when you said you were climbing w/ a bitch this weekend, i had no idea... smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#1037412 - 10/09/11 08:38 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: ivan]
YocumRidge Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 1247
TRs: 46 Photos: 647
Loc: PDX
Yep, Cody is being trained to rope gun my weak and shaky ass up the steep ice. smile
_________________________
"Dragged by the force of some inner tide" ~ David Gilmour

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#1038651 - 10/19/11 10:40 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
dax021177 Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/18/11
Posts: 4
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: San Francisco
(apologies for the cross post)

Hi all -- I'm heading up Mount Hood this weekend and wonder if anyone's been up anything other than the s. side route recently? I'm looking for some rope practice and so would like try something other than the main trail. Anyone have any ideas for this time of year? Thanks

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#1038814 - 10/20/11 11:17 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: YocumRidge]
dougd Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 840
TRs: 5 Photos: 16
Loc: Spokane
Which pack is cody's?...

d
_________________________
The older the violin, the sweeter the music...

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#1038868 - 10/20/11 03:24 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: dougd]
YocumRidge Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 1247
TRs: 46 Photos: 647
Loc: PDX
The one that makes him lead harder pitches smile
_________________________
"Dragged by the force of some inner tide" ~ David Gilmour

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#1038884 - 10/20/11 05:37 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
dougd Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 840
TRs: 5 Photos: 16
Loc: Spokane
Of course!

I should have guessed...

d
_________________________
The older the violin, the sweeter the music...

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#1040286 - 10/31/11 07:16 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: dougd]
Holk Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/02/10
Posts: 96
TRs: 9 Photos: 16
Loc: Portland, OR
My brother and I made our way up to McNeil Point Saturday afternoon and then ventured forth into the night up Cathedral Ridge to around 7,500 ft before the moon sliver set and all ambient light diminished.

Alas the headlamps could only illuminate so much, and so we turned back, but not before traversing some highly exposed class 4 rock on the knife ridge gendarme garden. I am greatly anticipating climbing that route in full.

Some photos for your pleasure:


There was a nice little saucer hovering over Illumination Rock for awhile too.


Drool.


Anyone climb this route? Or know about it? Upper Sandy Glacier Couloir maybe? I would like to give it a try sometime soon.


Sandy Headwall Gully looking sweet too, although out of my league; assuming it's the line from glacier to bottom of upper Yocum?


Clouds moved up the Muddy Fork like slow water while the Willamette Valley bore more of a resemblance to the ocean.


It only ever got this bright if and when you left the shutter open for 15 minutes.

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#1040717 - 11/03/11 10:25 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
luvshaker Offline
member

Registered: 11/18/03
Posts: 194
TRs: 0 Photos: 16
Loc: 500 miles from granite
Great shots!
I have actually climbed that route on a LONG early spring day. We came from Timberline. The only spot where we varied was where your dotted line disappears, we traversed left about 100' and split those rocks. Where your line goes there was about 30' of vertical ice that looked fun. We had to rappel down to the Sandy Glacier, and the only other spot of technical stuff came when we were leaving the glacier where your line cuts back left, otherwise a route that definitely gets you to a less traveled part of the mountain.

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#1041865 - 11/08/11 07:56 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
TyClimber Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/13/05
Posts: 99
TRs: 6 Photos: 20
Loc: Seattle
Has anyone taken a look at the Reid glacier lately? Wondering if it is currently possible to get at the Leuthold.

Thanks

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#1044637 - 11/26/11 01:44 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
sdizzle25 Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/10
Posts: 157
TRs: 5 Photos: 26
Loc: IDAHO/OREGON
time to ask teh interwebs.....would like to solo reid HW this week if weather/homework permit. anyone been on the reid glacier lately? how is it looking? properly filled in yet?

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#1044645 - 11/26/11 05:07 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
take a picture of the pencil if you actually go up there please:)

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#1045366 - 11/30/11 12:34 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
YocumRidge Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 1247
TRs: 46 Photos: 647
Loc: PDX
FS 3512 to the Cloud Cap Inn (north side access) is officially closed for the season due to significant snowfall at lower elevation.

So early this year! mad
_________________________
"Dragged by the force of some inner tide" ~ David Gilmour

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#1045474 - 11/30/11 04:30 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: YocumRidge]
dougd Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 840
TRs: 5 Photos: 16
Loc: Spokane
Thanks for the info.

I'm headed up there this weekend anyway to do some scouting. I'll try to get some good pics of the N face for those interested...

d
_________________________
The older the violin, the sweeter the music...

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#1045503 - 11/30/11 06:28 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: dougd]
YocumRidge Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 1247
TRs: 46 Photos: 647
Loc: PDX
Originally Posted By: dougd

I'm headed up there this weekend anyway to do some scouting.
d


I have done my scouting on that side for the season. Now it is time to climb it.
We will be bivying in the main shrund on Sat night - so come over for tea when you are done. smile

I am fairly sure it is the best room for rent on the entire Hood - free standing water ice pillars with overhanging roof:


And healthy water ice above:
_________________________
"Dragged by the force of some inner tide" ~ David Gilmour

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#1045510 - 11/30/11 07:22 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
dougd Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 840
TRs: 5 Photos: 16
Loc: Spokane
hmmm, interesting pics. Thank you for the kind invitation. The room is indeed impressive, and, the price is right.

My wife and I will be "bivying" in the A frame Sat evening a bit lower than I'd like. "The plan" started out as more of a climbing trip for me with bivy @ or near tie in rock, then, somehow, mysteriously, "evolved" to the present plan. She is a non climbing person so getting a feel for this side of the mountain will most likely end up being Sunday morning higher on the spur... It's a long drive back to Spokane for work Mon...

Maybe I'll see you all along the way.

Good luck,

d
_________________________
The older the violin, the sweeter the music...

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#1046157 - 12/04/11 08:51 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2566
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
it's been years since I've been on the north side. how long is the road walk up to the Tilly Jane TH?
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#1046159 - 12/04/11 09:09 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: kurthicks]
denalidave Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 08/14/06
Posts: 4065
TRs: 3 Photos: 674
Loc: Columbia River Gorge, WA
Originally Posted By: kurthicks
it's been years since I've been on the north side. how long is the road walk up to the Tilly Jane TH?
Me too, but I seem to recall about 2-2.5 hours from the parking lot. Hoping to get up there this season though.
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Some people make hard climbing look easy, I prefer to make easy climbing look really hard.

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#1046190 - 12/05/11 07:33 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: kurthicks]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
Originally Posted By: kurthicks
it's been years since I've been on the north side. how long is the road walk up to the Tilly Jane TH?

you don't walk the road, but hte tilly jane trail from the cooper spur ski area - bonus pts if you can ski of course smile

2-3 hrs sounds about right, and of course the snow conditions can vary widely.
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#1048369 - 12/18/11 11:27 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: ivan]
JRay Offline
journeyman

Registered: 12/16/09
Posts: 99
TRs: 0 Photos: 11
Loc: Corvallis/Bend, OR
A friend of mine just shot these pics of the South and South East sides of Mt Hood this evening.

_________________________
Sometimes mountaineering in the cascades is like playing russian roulette in the barrel of a cannon

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#1054307 - 01/22/12 11:18 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
sdizzle25 Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/10
Posts: 157
TRs: 5 Photos: 26
Loc: IDAHO/OREGON
Anybody have any experience on hopping on the mountain after a heavy storm cell moves in? Assuming we get weather and good avy conditions, any of the steeper routes shed loose snow pretty quickly? would like to do reid or NF gulleys, but have never gotten on them during long dry periods, and would rather bring my skis than mess with steep, soft snow climbing.

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#1057116 - 02/09/12 11:03 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
B Deleted_Beck Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/11
Posts: 790
TRs: 8 Photos: 175
What's the hike in to TJ look like right now? I read somebody's TR from a couple years ago, said the area had burned out... is it just skeleton trees the whole way in? I've never been on that sat before, but I think it's time. High time.

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#1057139 - 02/09/12 12:24 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
JWebster Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/07/12
Posts: 5
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Spokane, WA
Anybody climbing on Monday night/Tuesday on the south side route? I was just wondering how the conditions might be shaping up after a few days of light snow this weekend in the forecast. Is avy danger really a problem in these kinds of conditions on the south side or does it stay pretty basic? Also, if anyone wants to join a couple of fatty's for a slow ascent on that night, let me know, Or if you plan on being on the mountain so that I know I'm not the only one up there!

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#1059378 - 02/26/12 10:27 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
jpl Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/26/12
Posts: 6
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Seattle
Hi everyone, new to the board. My brother and I have wanted to climb Hood for years but have never gotten the chance and have decided to try to make it happen this year. What times of year are the best to climb Hood and then what are the climbing conditions like now? Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

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#1059381 - 02/26/12 10:57 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: jpl]
B Deleted_Beck Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/11
Posts: 790
TRs: 8 Photos: 175
Originally Posted By: jpl
Hi everyone, new to the board. My brother and I have wanted to climb Hood for years but have never gotten the chance and have decided to try to make it happen this year. What times of year are the best to climb Hood and then what are the climbing conditions like now? Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.


Conditions change with the weather... can by anything from crotch-deep powder to re-freeze crust.. and is usually somewhere in between, when weather's clear. Obviously being winter, you gotta catch it during a period of stable snow.

Everything's climbable, and the crater is filled/filling in nicely. Last time I was up a few weeks ago, the route up through the Old Chute didn't look any worse than 40* all the way up, and the "knife edge" wasn't.

Just gotta go when weather's good and snow is stable- which doesn't always happen at the same time.

I've got pics from the 7th on my facebook page- it's all open to the public: Benjamin Beckerich


Edited by Ben B. (02/26/12 11:01 PM)

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