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JasonG

[TR] Depot Creek- Moxes, Custer and Rahm - Standards 7/23/2016

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Well, the original plan was to go into the Northern Pickets for a week, but then the weather turned and

 

our crack team of five armchair alpinists began to unravel. Then, three of us were going to head to the

 

Winds, but we lost the third. Then, two of us were going to head to the Tetons, but our truck broke

 

down on the way to Snoqualmie Pass and we didn't have another road worthy rig between us. Then, the

 

two of us were going to head into Cathedral (in my beater 1991 Civic), but the weather window got too

 

small.

 

And so, we found ourselves in Depot Creek (carried there by my beater Civic), going after some obscure

 

peaks on an obscure list, best not discussed in polite conversation. Lest I anger Klenke,

 

tyrannical king of beta, this

 

report will be short on details but long on pictures.

 

Some of the things that stuck out to me on our trip:

 

• As on most Cascade outings, we had the best weather on days we hiked in and out.

 

• The approach up Depot Creek is getting more difficult with time/lack of maintenance.

 

• Scrambling fourth class terrain in the rain and static electricity can be surprisingly exciting.

 

• Custer really may be the most solid peak in the Cascades

 

• "Hard" Mox may feel a lot harder than you think it should feel.... especially if you are in a cloud

 

• "Easy" Mox doesn't seem so easy in the face of glacial recession

 

• Anyone who has climbed Lemolo is tough as nails

 

• Get a permit. NCNP rangers patrol up Depot Creek and Kevork may pay you a visit. (In our case this

 

was welcome, Steve hadn't seen Kevork since the

 

rescue on Terror in 2009 )

 

• You really should see the Depot Creek Falls once in your lifetime, or four times if your success rate is

 

similar to mine.

 

2016Moxes_Rahm21406.JPG

 

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2016Moxes_Rahm21797.JPG

 

Approach: Drive up Depot Creek as far as you dare. We made it a mile with low clearance, but you

 

could get another mile with 4WD HC.

 

Gear: Helmet, 60m half rope, ice axe, Al crampons

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You know it! Spooky, thankfully Steve was up to the task while I yelled encouragement.

 

Porter is going to help me so hopefully you can see some pics in the next few days.

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Its up! Thanks Jason....and anyone have any trouble just PM me, I'll help.

 

And thanks to Jason...he has really been helping hold this place together!

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So much to love in this TR, but perhaps none so much as this simple line of text:

 

"Lest I anger Klenke"

 

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are permits self-register? We did it once - registered at sedro wooley and they forwarded it to marblemount for some obscure reason. a week later I get a call from Marblemount asking if I got off the mountain or not. WTF? I asked why the permit was in marblemount and they said that's the jurisdiction for the area.

 

Other time I was there... did not bother with a permit.

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Jason: Thanks for the great trip! I think I finally got reliable transportation. Robson in Sept?

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pardon my ignorance, but what are the standard routes on these peaks? and friggen amazing pictures BTW.

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pardon my ignorance, but what are the standard routes on these peaks? and friggen amazing pictures BTW.

 

For custer you follow the least shitty line in a pile of dog-shit-choss

 

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Good question Oly, I think Klenke will allow a brief response.

 

Custer- South ridge, 3rd/4th

Rahm- SW route, 3rd/4th

NW Twin Spire (AKA Easy Mox)- North Ridge, low-mid fifth

SE Twin Spire (AKA Hard Mox)- SW route, mid-fifth

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Glad you guys like the photos!

 

And yes, you can self issue the permit in Sedro if they are closed or get it in person during normal business hours. No need to go to Marblemount.

 

Hard to say how the moat is now....could be OK or much worse. There was a large hollow area that was going to be a lot worse before it got better.

 

Steve- I can't swing a long trip in Sept., unfortunately. Got to save leave for the mega family camping trip!

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agreed on both counts--your photography is outstanding. as you know, I was in the area approx the same time, and 'enjoyed' the challenging visibility/rain on the approach and Mt Redoubt climb.

 

v. impressed you guys were able to navigate SE Mox in poor viz the day before we climbed it in (finally!) bluebird. that area is so beautiful.

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