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Mont Blanc compatibility with G12s?


pioneerian

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I've been having an issue with my beloved G12 new-matic crampons locking to a new pair of Scarpa Mont Blanc boots. Is anyone familiar with this? The G12s have seen a good deal of use but I don't think it's a wear issue. The boots are size 48 which I know is the upper limit but they locked well to my old La Sportivas. The MBs have a rounded heal so the lever doesn't seem to go forward enough to actually "lock".

 

If a new crampon is needed, I've been looking at the G22s, Cassin C14s, Cyborgs, or Sarken if you've had experience with any, please share.

 

Thanks!

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I've used the Mont Blanc Pro with Petzl Leverlock crampons and not seen the issue. Not sure what would be causing your problem with the Grivel's. That said, two thoughts:

 

Maybe moving the attachment point for the rear bail (move the wire to the other holes in the crampon) might change the angle the heel lever needs to reach to fully snap into place.

 

Or, if you can find some Petzl Sidelock crampons you might have better luck. I have seen good crampon/boot compatibility with these but have never owned a pair. There is no lever to engage in the sense of a traditional bail.

 

good luck.

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I have found a good fit between Mont Blancs (size 45) and Petzl Sarken.

 

I've found the Petzls to be pretty versatile. They're a little heavier/overkill for snow and summer routes but they're lighter than a full-on ice/mixed pon like a G14. I've climbed WI4 and easy mixed with them.

 

While I've found them to be a one crampon does it all item, I'd probably prefer at this point to have a G12/Vasak for alpine and G14/Lynx for more technical terrain. And a light Alu pair for the summer. So I'd think about your climbing goals/trajectory before committing to a crampon right in the middle if you think you might want eventually to get into more technical climbing.

 

Lot's of opinions out there, mine is that there is no upside to stainless on a crampon and I avoid the BDs as a result.

 

I'll second the idea to try moving the rear bail attachment to the other set of points. Also maybe try it again with the lower bar set a little longer than you think you need. I've sometimes found a good fit with a little more of a gap between the boot heel and the rear stop tabs. I'm not sure there's anything wrong with a gap there if the fit is otherwise solid.

Edited by diepj
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