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Bigolcamel

Grivel G12's

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I am looking at buying new crampons and have decided on the Gricel G12's. My boots are LS Nepal evos. I am wondering which attachment system is best with my boots, the crampomatics or the new matic G12's? I will be primarily climbing cascade volcanos near Portland with minimal ice climbing. Thanks for your help!

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i dont know wtf their naming exactly means but you've got full bail, hybrid, or full strap/baskets.

 

The Nepal has a toe bail lip, I don't know what people's experience with it is, but by far the best feeling, quickest access is with a toe bail, fully automatic crampons. At least in my experience I prefer that more than anything, they just make it easy and least amount of bulk, and most secure fit.

 

if anyone can chime in or you find positive comments on the internet about full auto/using the toe lip/bail... I would go that way.

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IF the toe bail (Cramp-o-matic) fits your boots really well, that is the most precise attachment. Getting a really good fit is not guaranteed though, and a poor fit can cause problems. Also, as the toe and welt wears down with use the attachment becomes less secure. I've seen crampons pop off due to this issue.

 

The New-matic with the front basket will fit your boots regardless of the condition of the toe, but the connection may be a less precise.

 

Personally, for ice climbing crampons I use a toe bail, for general mountaineering and alpine climbing I use the New-matic system.

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I used the hybrid G12s with Evos for years and felt pretty good about the system. However, I'd opt for full-bail if I were to do it again since there a little easier.

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as the toe and welt wears down with use the attachment becomes less secure. I've seen crampons pop off due to this issue.

 

 

The precision of the toe bail type system is unbeatable. Also, they're warmer in really cold conditions. As for the welt wear issue, it's for sure an issue, but judicious use of a rat-tail file will keep the attachment groove plenty secure for years... And don't be afraid to bend the toe bails a bit to improve the mating between your boots and the crampons.

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As for the welt wear issue, it's for sure an issue, but judicious use of a rat-tail file will keep the attachment groove plenty secure for years...

 

I will have to keep this trick in mind. I already have the rat tail file for ice screws.

 

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