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Alex789

[TR] Forbidden Peak - East Ridge 9/20/2014

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Trip: Forbidden Peak - East Ridge

 

Date: 9/20/2014

 

Trip Report:

We decided to climb Forbidden Peak East Ridge on the weekend of September 20-21 2014. The forecast for North Cascade was very good. We originally wanted to approach to Boston Basin on Saturday and climb the mountain on Sunday. Our friend could not leave on Friday night and we started on Saturday at 4:45am from Redmond in order to get to Marblemount at 7 to try to get a permit. We got to the ranger station at 7 as planned only to discover that all of the available permits were taken on Friday. We quickly discussed our options and decided to try to climb the route in a day. We got to Boston Basin trailhead at 8:15 and started hiking at 8:30. As the start was late we needed to be fast. My friends ran ahead and I tried to catch up with them heavily puffing. On a grassy moraine we somehow lost the trail and traversed directly through alpine vegetation to the beginning of the slabs. We scrambled on the slabs heading to the unnamed glacier mentioned in the Nelson’s guidebook. Crossing several snow patches, we got closer to the ridge keeping right from the heavily broken glacier tongue. There we looked at the gullies and discussed which one to take to gain the ridge. Finally we decided to take the rightmost wide gully. The snow in the gully was firm, but not steep. My friends climbed in boots and I put my crampons on. After the snow, an easy scramble led us to the broad col on a ridge before the first gendarme. It was 12:30. We looked at the gully on the right side which we should climb from East Ledges on a way back. We left our crampons and boots, roped up and started climbing at 1:00. The climbing was airy and exposed, but not hard. We climbed in 2 roped teams, simul-climbing most of the time. We did not bypass any of the gendarmes, but climbed them straight. 5.7 crack and flake section brought us on top of “pitch 5” gendarme. Next was a short rappel about 20 feet which is not mentioned in Nelson guidebook. Leading the 5.8 section I climbed over the flake to the left and found an awkward unprotected slab below the roof. John led the second rope and climbed straight up the slightly overhanging, but protected roof. We arrived at the summit at 4:00 climbed the ridge in 3 hours. The views of the North Cascades were stunning. There was not a single cloud in the sky. Though we had 2 ropes, we decided to rappel on a single rope to avoid rope drag. There were rappel stations on every half rope. We almost missed the 4th station, it was behind a rock. The rappel line goes almost vertically down. There were some slings on a small ridge on a climber’s left, but you don’t need to go there, just keep rappelling down looking for the stations. After the 5th rappel we reached East Ledges. We traversed the ledges counting 5 ridges and correctly found our ascend gully. We were back at the col at 5:50. At 6:10 we started downclimbing the gullies, then the slabs. There were several parties camping in Boston Basin. We hit the main stream crossing during dusk at 7:50. Hiking in the dark with headlamps we arrived at the trailhead at 9:15. 12 hours and 45 minutes car to car – not a bad time. Fantastic day!

 

Forbidden Peak East Ridge

01_Forbidden_Peak_East_ridge.JPG

 

Heading to the unnamed glacier

02_Heading_to_the_unnamed_glacier.JPG

 

View on East Ridge

03_View_on_East_Ridge.JPG

 

Glacier tongue

04_Glacier_tongue.JPG

 

Approach gully on a right

05_Approach_gully_on_a_right.JPG

 

In the gully

06_In_the_gully.JPG

 

Coming to the col

07_Coming_to_the_col.JPG

 

At the col

08_At_the_col.JPG

 

09.JPG

 

Rappel before 5.8 gendarme

10_Rappel.JPG

 

5.8 section

11_5_8_section.JPG

 

12.JPG

 

Beginning of the rappels

13_Beginning_of_the_rappel.JPG

 

On East Ledges

14_On_Easl_Ledges.JPG

 

Climbing a gully back to the col

15_Climbing_a_gully_back_to_the_col.JPG

 

Descend

16_Descend.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Standard rack up to 2 inches. Set of nuts. Several slings.

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The rappel anchors on the West Ridge must be new, they were not there earlier in the summer.

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great to have a photo description of the east ledges descent now. so you were happy with your choice in the "Climbing a gully back to the col" photo? that is the best gulley right?

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great to have a photo description of the east ledges descent now.

 

FYI, I included a couple E Ledges photos on this site a couple years ago here. Though no gulley ascent photo included. I'd have to guess that other photos are out there in the interwebs as well, though I didn't take the time to look just now.

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No, this is all about East Side descend. There is a rib on East side about 100 feet to the left of the descend line. There are also rappel slings on it, but you don't need to go there. The right rappel line goes down. That's what I meant.

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Also, correction. The rappel after pitch 5 is IN Nelson's guidebook, but not in the description, but on topo. My bad, need to read route description more carefully :)

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