Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
denalidevo

[TR] Index Upper Town Wall - Davis Holland - Lovin' Arms 7/7/2013

Recommended Posts

Trip: Index Upper Town Wall - Davis Holland - Lovin' Arms

 

Date: 7/7/2013

 

Trip Report:

After spending eight days on Mount Rainier, it was nice to get on granite over the weekend. Highlight was climbing on the UTW Sunday. Freakin' love Index! The short of it:

 

David Holland - Lovin' Arms, 5.10c A0

  • Left parking lot at 7:58 am.
  • UTW base 8:30 am.
  • Climbing at 9 am.
  • P1, 5.9 - Chad.
  • P2, 5.10b - me.
  • P3, 5.10c - Chad.
  • P4, 5.10b - me.
  • P5, 5.11b - Chad w/ a fall and aid. Me w/ falls and aid. I hurt my left shoulder & used primarily my right arm to finish the pitch.
  • P6, 5.9 - Chad only, I was done. He topped out just before 2:00 pm.
  • We rappelled using rap stations down the face left of the DH/LA route and the reached the ground at 2:38 pm.

 

Photos:

 

Pitch one

Index_2013-07-07_at_09-09-45.jpg

 

Top of pitch two

Index_2013-07-07_at_10-24-04.jpg

 

Pitch three

Index_2013-07-07_at_10-29-16.jpg

 

Index_2013-07-07_at_10-44-18.jpg

 

Pitch four

Index_2013-07-07_at_12-05-53.jpg

 

Index_2013-07-07_at_12-16-50.jpg

 

Pitch five

Index_2013-07-07_at_12-45-47.jpg

 

Pitch six

Index_2013-07-07_at_13-39-33.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

No crampons or ice axe!

 

Approach Notes:

No snow!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nice photos, fyi you can avoid the 11b section by climbing higher in the chimney before traversing out right, you will get to a flake that allows you to traverse out right and rejoin the route above the 11b part. That makes this pitch 10c, still the crux for me though as it is harder than pitch 3 imo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went that way the first time I did the route. It's definitely easier. Thought we'd give the hardman version a try this time and got spanked!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
birdie closure must be lifted then?

Yup, the closure is lifted. The ranger told me that he had heard there were two successful younguns.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

gotta get some of that bird mojo down here on the beatard-wand :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×