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bonathanjarrett

[TR] Illumination Rock - Skylight 11/25/2012

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Trip: Illumination Rock - Skylight

 

Date: 11/25/2012

 

Trip Report:

No pictures so it didn't happen--I know--but this is more a conditions and route description note for posterity than anything.

 

We found excellent snow, ice, and neve on Skylight on Sunday. The route went in two pitches. The start can be found at a single bolt at the right end of the wall. Currently you need to make a half dozen mixed moves up and right to the ledge where it is located. From there the route goes essentially straight up to a two pin and one nut belay at about 35m. For the second pitch we made a rising traverse left until you meet the single bolt belay to what I presume is Skylight Direct. From there we continued straight up through two M5ish right facing corner systems. These sections were stellar with ice choked corners, scratchy smearing, gloved fist jams, and super sticks in neve. We belayed from about ten feet below the skylight at a single bolt.

 

Descent via two double rope raps the way we came.

 

Gear Notes:

Med rack blue Mastercam to 3 inches. You could do without the 3" piece but it helps protect the final corner/fist jam section.

Iron not necessary, but we placed (then cleaned) a single KB on the traverse of the second pitch.

 

 

Approach Notes:

Slog

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Good to see you guys up there! Fun conditions up on Illumination and it looks like your line was a bit more solid than ours.

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good job getting out on i-rock you guys. the mountain looked beautiful yesterday and i was wondering if i-rock was "in".

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