Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
bonathanjarrett

[TR] Triple Couloirs - Dragontail 5/27/2012

Recommended Posts

Trip: Triple Couloirs - Dragontail

 

Date: 5/27/2012

 

Trip Report:

Climbed Triple Couloir on Saturday. We found the route in pretty excellent shape for the end of May. The couloirs were superb snice bottom to top allowing us to solo all but two sections in just 3.5 hours. I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking.

 

Route overview:

DSC02308.JPG

 

Close up of Runnels:

DSC02332.JPG

 

Looking down the first couloir:

DSC02313.JPG

 

Runnels from below. Call them in. Call them out. Call them what you will:

DSC023141.JPG

 

Option #2 Gulley:

DSC023181.JPG

 

Looking back at the 5.8 traverse which was spicy fun:

DSC023201.JPG

 

Slab from 2nd to 3rd Couloir:

DSC023221.JPG

 

Midway up the 3rd Couloir:

DSC02325.JPG

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

60 meter rope

1-10 nuts

6 cams from .25"-2.5"

1 knifeblade/1 bugaboo

 

Approach Notes:

We were able to go car to car in under 10 hours due to snow free trail, great conditions on route, and firm snow for the descent off the backside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been climbing this route for 20 years. Used to be February was prime season. Last time I climbed it April was fat. Now it seems late May is the time to do it. Is global climate change 'pushing' the season forward or just shortening the season?

Edited by DPS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Way to get after it!!

 

I'm glad that your memory card was not damaged, so you could add to the CC stoke. That route looks so amazing I for sure need to do it next year!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've been climbing this route for 20 years. Used to be February was prime season. Last time I climbed it April was fat. Now it seems late May is the time to do it. Is global climate change 'pushing' the season forward or just shortening the season?

 

The last 5 years have definitely* seen a change in snowpack accumulation locally, with less snow in early winter (up to January) and more snow late in winter through to May.

 

* verified from automated snowpack pillows, but not long enough of a trend to be statistically significant yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The traverse was for sure spicy. Very impressed with that lead. Super fun route, amazing feeling of exposure looking back down towards the lake. No ticks on the snow, either...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

in the photo with the 5.8 traverse, I can see what looks like a old avi debris that poured onto the frozen lake. Looks like torn apart trees deposited onto the ice. Is this what it looks like? While certainly possible, I have never seen avi debris in that part of the area. (which is a nice bivy area in winter)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are correct that it is avi debris with broken trees that is scattered fifty yards or more out onto the lake. There was actually a second one as well that is not in the picture.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×