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treekiwi

[TR] Mt Thielsen - North Face 1/13/2012

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Trip: Mt Thielsen - North Face

 

Date: 1/13/2012

 

Trip Report:

Don't usually post trip reports but thought this one might be worthy. Soloed a route on the north face of Thielsen last Friday. A smear that leads up to the McLaughlin route and joins the NE Buttress right below the upper headwall. Route was thin ice/snow over slabs with a lot of mixed climbing topped by a nice little ice pitch of about WI3 or so. Not much real ice on route despite the appearance...most of it was frozen snow over rock. Soloed the lower 700' approx without a rope. Pulled out rope for headwall aid section where I got into trouble. A really nice looking knob ripped off under body weight, and the ensuing fall ripped both old bolts out. Landed pretty hard back on the saddle and re-assessed the options. Decided to down-climb the east face. Was able to rap quite a bit, but anchors were so bad in some cases that downclimbing seemed safer. Thielsen's rock really is as bad as it's reputation....approach with caution.

Now off to Ouray for some real ice...will be out of town for the next three weeks. showphoto.php?photo=72989&title=the-routecentral-smears&cat=500

showphoto.php?photo=72988&title=looking-up-in-about-the-middle-of-the-gully&cat=500showphoto.php?photo=72987&title=final-crux-ice-section-of-gully&cat=500showphoto.php?photo=72986&title=approaching-final-pitch-on-upper-snow-field&cat=500

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dude, where's the pix of the ripped anchor? now that's some shit to see, as well as hopefully the giant shit-stain in yer pants! :)

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I remember plunging through scree a couple feet deep on Thielson some years back on a summer scramble to the summit...

 

Pretty mountain, and a miserable, rotten, choss pile...

 

Glad you came out ok.

 

d

 

 

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Sounds like some full value climbing! Glad things worked out well. Hopefully you kept what was left of the bolts as a keepsake.

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dude, where's the pix of the ripped anchor? now that's some shit to see, as well as hopefully the giant shit-stain in yer pants! :)

I knew some pervert would want to see evidence....I didn't have the mental capacity at the time to photo the scene of the crime, but here are the bolts that I, errr..chopped inadvertantly.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=73013&title=ripped-bolts-off-thielsen&cat=500

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i assume you have already made the appropriate sacrifice to whatever pagan god you pray to for the divine intervention? :noway:

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Since like some full value climbing! Glad things worked out well. Hopefully you kept what was left of the bolts as a keepsake.

 

Thanks Colin, and sounds like you've been having some fun times up on Illumination lately. We should get out sometime.

Cheers,

Steve

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i assume you have already made the appropriate sacrifice to whatever pagan god you pray to for the divine intervention? :noway:

Yes, I feel very lucky. I thought I'd retired from this style of climbing, but here I go again, 15 years later. Like they say on the Sopranos, "He reeled me back in (pretend strong Italian accent)". So many years of solo alpine stuff, and as soon as I abandon my own feet and hands and revert to aid, look what happens!

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those bolts look like real museum pieces. they were up there a long time, i'll bet.

 

glad it turned out okay.

Edited by el jefe

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Fixt yer linx fer ya, Steve. :)

 

The route - central smears

The_route1.JPG

 

 

Looking up in about the middle of the gully

Looking_up_in_middle.JPG

 

 

Final crux ice section of gully

Final_crux_ice_section.JPG

 

 

Approaching final pitch on upper snow field

Approaching_last_pitches.JPG

 

 

Ripped bolts off Thielsen

photo18.JPG

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:lmao: Glad your back with us, sorry I could not make it to hold the rope for you...

 

Steve and I flew around Theilson on the 4th to check on conditions... Since its no secret any more, and I doubt we'll be returning anytime soon, I got this video whilst doing so if anyone cares... Watch the dash at 2:55 it got a little bit bumpy ;)

 

 

[video:youtube]H-xrGNerfaA

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Thanks, Steve and Tyler. The wing's leading edge geometry looks remarkably similar to a Grumman Cheetah, which is why I asked. But I'm no pilot, and I don't even play one on TV... :)

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Thanks, Steve and Tyler. The wing's leading edge geometry looks remarkably similar to a Grumman Cheetah, which is why I asked. But I'm no pilot, and I don't even play one on TV... :)

 

Yeah they basically look the same, except the doors open differently. If ya didn't know anything about aviation you wouldn't know the difference. Fun plane, Steve is a rad pilot, and I'm just trying to be one ;)

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I can promise you that at least 80% of the rock on Illumination stays in place. And none of this bolt-ripping-out-falling-on-my-ass shenanagins. It'd be good fun to scratch up some stuff in Oregon soon! Maybe on less chossy chosspiles?

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I can promise you that at least 80% of the rock on Illumination stays in place. And none of this bolt-ripping-out-falling-on-my-ass shenanagins. It'd be good fun to scratch up some stuff in Oregon soon! Maybe on less chossy chosspiles?

Yeah, most of Illumination is great fun......I've had some excellent trips on it's flanks.

You know, I've had the North Face of Thielsen as my screen saver for a couple of years now. I have been somewhat obsessed with it. The other day when I was finally privileged to be walking out, I looked back at my nemesis. It was resplendent in the final red glow of the day. I stood there under the west face and gave it two middle fingers for quite awhile. Then, I realized that we were smiling at each other, because I had been sticking him/her in the flanks all day with my Ergo's, and then he/she/it had slammed me on my arse. So we were even........I got what I needed and Mt Thielsen proved it was not to be taken lightly.

Cheers

Steve

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Nice Steve, good work! Sounded sketchy when Tyler was telling me about it! Let's get out soon...

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I applaud your sense of ethics

dude, where's the pix of the ripped anchor? now that's some shit to see, as well as hopefully the giant shit-stain in yer pants! :)

I knew some pervert would want to see evidence....I didn't have the mental capacity at the time to photo the scene of the crime, but here are the bolts that I, errr..chopped inadvertantly.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=73013&title=ripped-bolts-off-thielsen&cat=500

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Awesome aerial footage. Thanks! I'll be down there the first weekend of Feb looking to get a ski run on that SW face. I'm guessing weather and avy conditions will be a bit of a party pooper the way things are going.

What does the summit spire look like in winter on the S aspect? Does it get pretty rimed up and covered, or still a mixed rock ice mess?

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Awesome aerial footage. Thanks! I'll be down there the first weekend of Feb looking to get a ski run on that SW face. I'm guessing weather and avy conditions will be a bit of a party pooper the way things are going.

What does the summit spire look like in winter on the S aspect? Does it get pretty rimed up and covered, or still a mixed rock ice mess?

Hi Sanchez,

It all depends on the preceding weather. I did the standard route last Feb after another aborted attempt on the north side. It was somewhat rimed up, but rock was showing and protection would have been available. I would imagine it could be totally plastered, but if it has been windy, might be more rock. Be prepared for both would be my advice.

Cheers

Steve

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