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FS/FT: Cams, Oval Biners, Gloves - updated


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[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/DSC034001.JPG[/img]

The ice screw shown is an MSR, circa ~1974 to '78. BITD they were the screw of choice for smoking dope out of, due to the slot between the hanger wires and the built-in carb hole.

 

They are very heavy, and are manufactured with some sort of American fine machine thread on rather heavy mechanical round tubing. Never the less, when they first came out, they were a huge improvement over the existing ice screws on the market, which was dominated by Salewa tubular screws. Chouinard came out with a screw about 1978, followed by the Lowe Snarg, probably about 1979. These were superior in some aspects to the MSR screws, although the MSR screws were still superior in some climbing aspects. No ice screw has approached MSR ice screws as a dope-smoking device.

 

MSR ice screws were especially popular in the NW, due to the localized nature of MSR's market. In the late '70's, Larry Penberthy sold MSR to REI, and many of their products were discontinued. Penberthy returned to Penberthy Electro-melt. There were rumors of an individual who looked like Larry Penberthy hawking glass bongs outside Grateful Dead concerts for a number of years. The veracity or these rumors are questionable, and like the reports of the death of Elvis, should be taken with a grain of salt.

 

The bolts look like internal pill drop-in's. There also appears to be some sort of home made holder for drilling exterior pill self-drive bolts.

 

Also pictured are pulley sheaves by SMC, to be used on oval carabineers. As one might guess, the mechanical advantage of these was close to zero

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